[RDchemist]

@Bill_Toge Potassium Hydroxide already has to be listed so this is probably the way we’ll go.

The total material before or after in any case is well below 1% so I don’t anticipate any problems coming from ingredient order.

[RDchemist]

This material was made in-lab by saponifying seabuckthorn oil with potassium hydroxide.

I have never used a material not found in the INCI dictionary and handbook. Based on the the following copied from FDA:

§701.3   Designation of ingredients

Identification of Ingredients by Name

1. The name established by the commissioner as specified in § 701.30.

2. The name adopted for the ingredient as listed in:
   

   (a) CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary
   (b) United States Pharmacopeia
   (c) National Formulary
   (d) Food Chemical Codex
   (e) USAN and the USP Dictionary of Drug Names

3. The name generally recognized by consumers

4. The chemical or technical name or description

Could I reasonably list only “seabuckthorn oil” or perhaps “Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil” as a criteria of the 3rd option? Would “Saponified Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil” be a more accurate generally recognized name?

[RDchemist]

@bobzchemist I’ve looked into the original pears soap. The rosin certainly fits the bill in terms of colour, but the soap chemistry is quite different I see between the two bars. Hopefully it can be incorporated at a low level but impart high intensity colour so that it won’t affect the hardness, foaming, and overall harshness without a major base rework being necessary. I ordered a sample to try and see.

@johnb Interesting, from all the patents I’ve read it sounded like the TEA, stearic acid, BHT mixture was made first and the “water soluble” items and sodium soaps added after they were prepared. I’ll have to try adding the TEA last next. My initial thoughts were reaction time would be quite slow but the change in clarity should make the end point quite obvious.

Thanks for both your help!