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  • pma

    Member
    April 20, 2015 at 10:49 am in reply to: Why use stearic acid?

    Unilever has been using stearic acid for a different purpose: replenishing the stearic acid that is highly removed during by surfactants:


    Since their cleansers has a pH around 7, the stearic acid that can be found in their products isn’t necessarily saponificated. 
  • pma

    Member
    April 14, 2015 at 8:13 am in reply to: Possible Business model for Start Up Cosmetic Businesses?

    IMO the hardest part is distribution. At least in my country supermarkets, drugstores and most cosmetic stores just buy cosmetics from big corporations like P&G, Unilever, L’oréal… It’s very hard to put a small and new brand in their stores even if you try to pay for this… Even for medium companies is hard to put their products in big chains. 

    The good part is there’s Internet… Without Internet would be much harder to achieve any success in this business. 
  • pma

    Member
    March 23, 2015 at 11:38 am in reply to: Which ingredient is making this so sticky?

    Sodium hyaluronate is very sticky as well. Even at 0.2%.

  • pma

    Member
    March 15, 2015 at 3:10 am in reply to: Egg Yolk in Shampoo

    Egg yolk is just for marketing claim, right? So you can use a “homeopathic dose” that almost won’t do any difference in your formula.  Something about 0,00001%. 

  • pma

    Member
    March 15, 2015 at 1:02 am in reply to: WOW That’s a long LOI for a Shampoo!!

    Ojon is owned by Estée Lauder. Almost all formulas from Estée Lauder contain dozens and dozens of ingredients. Maybe its marketing team think long lists are better from a marketing point of view.

    Some marketing professionals believe that when a consumer see many ingredients he can think it’s a more “nobel” product. 
  • pma

    Member
    February 27, 2015 at 5:48 am in reply to: New sunscreen technology

    I guess they claim to offer the SPF that was tested on dry skin. 

  • pma

    Member
    February 26, 2015 at 4:29 am in reply to: New sunscreen technology

    Just curious: what did you ask them?

    Here the technology is well explained:

    The sunscreens with the new technology already are being sold in the US…
  • pma

    Member
    February 23, 2015 at 5:53 pm in reply to: Ingredient’s order

    (Or should you use an alphabetic order?).

  • pma

    Member
    February 2, 2015 at 1:27 am in reply to: Importance of p.H.

    If we aren’t talking about extreme “pH’s”, I doubt it will be a problem.

    I’d like to find a study like this: a human test involving the use of a cleanser with pH about 5.5 and another with a pH about 8.5 (both with the same surfactants) for some weeks. 
  • pma

    Member
    January 31, 2015 at 11:53 am in reply to: Pharmaceuticals vs Cosmeceuticals

    Belassi: I love “up to” as well. “Up to 50%” could be 0%. :P 

  • pma

    Member
    January 31, 2015 at 1:09 am in reply to: Pharmaceuticals vs Cosmeceuticals

    A word that helps is “known”. “The ingredient X is known for its anti-inflammatory action”. You aren’t saying the ingredient X will give an anti-inflammatory effect on your skin, you’re just saying the ingredient X is known for this… LOL 

  • pma

    Member
    January 28, 2015 at 10:17 pm in reply to: AmorePacific mulls patent lawsuit against Lancome

    Korea’s ‘Cushion Boom’ Changes Global Beauty Trends-

    AMOREPACIFIC’s Cushion products to exceed 50 million units in cumulative global sales during January 2015- Used by 75% of Korean women, the innovative cushion is now creating a global beauty trend beyond its popularity in Korea: 
  • pma

    Member
    January 11, 2015 at 1:59 pm in reply to: “Dermatologically Tested”

    I don’t know about US, but in my country to claim “dermatologically tested” you need to do RIPT (Repeat Insult Patch Test) or another test that I don’t remember its name.

  • pma

    Member
    January 9, 2015 at 10:11 am in reply to: Bad reaction to moisturizers - personal question

    @markBrussard: first one is from Shiseido and, despite its super light and watery texture, it moisturizers extremely well. I even tested with that device which measure the skin’s hydration and even after about 10h the skin was very hydrated. Well, Shiseido claims they do stinging test on people who react to lactic acid:


    It could explain why their moisturizers have never irritated my skin. Maybe testing properly the products is more important than just avoid the ingredient X or Y. 

    Second one is from Kosé, another Japanese brand. It gives a bit greasy texture and hydrates ok, but really well. At least didn’t irritate.
    Third one is from La-Roche Posay, L’oréal. It gives an extremely greasy sensation and hydrates well. Just to you know I’m really not alone, just on this page two people complain of similar bad reaction:
    Last one is from ROC, J & J. It gives a less greasy sensation than that one from LRP and hydrates well.
    Not yet.
  • pma

    Member
    January 8, 2015 at 1:44 am in reply to: Topical Amino acids - What’s the point?

    Speaking in amino acids, the new trending in China and Japan are D-amino acids. In China in creams/cosmetics and in Japan in drinks/oral.

    But I haven’t found any relevant study for cosmetic applications of D-amino acids. Just thinks like that:
  • pma

    Member
    January 7, 2015 at 10:02 am in reply to: Topical Amino acids - What’s the point?

    Topical arginine HCL may be useful:


    [Topically applied arginine hydrochloride. Effect on urea content of stratum corneum and skin hydration in atopic eczema and skin aging].

  • pma

    Member
    January 6, 2015 at 12:22 am in reply to: Bad reaction to moisturizers - personal question

    I don’t think fragrance is the culprit because even many fragrance free emulsions cause the same problem. Here is an example of fragrance free product that burns my skin like a hell (it’s a milky cleanser):

    Water, cetearyl isononanoate, PEG-8, glyceryl polymethacrylate, propylene glycol, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, C10-30 alkyl acrylates crosspolymer, tromethamine, propylparaben.

    Interestingly, I’m not alone. Usually when I have that kind of reaction I often find someone in cosmetic forums (like Makeupalley) reporting similar reaction.

    I’m wondering if depending of how a product is emulsified it couldn’t temporarily damage the skin’s barrier and cause this kind of reaction on truly sensitive skin. 

    I’ve heard that many products are patch tested, but not pass to sting tests. Since it isn’t an allergy, but just a very ephemeral discomfort (lasts about 10 seconds), patch tests aren’t useful to foresee this kind of reaction.

    Seems that developing cosmetics for sensitive skin can be much more complex than just do not put parabens, fragrance, alcohol…

    @MarkBroussard: yes, but sometimes you want (or need if you work in this industry) to try new things…
  • Sorry Irina, I think my source was wrong. Yes, you’re right, the CAS is 

    1125-88-8.

    P.s: where’s the edit bottom?
  • pma

    Member
    January 3, 2015 at 7:37 pm in reply to: Bad reaction to moisturizers - personal question

    More one question: is this kind of reaction common for cetyl alcohol? 

  • My message was incomplete.. I meant “modulate stress”.

    MarkBroussard: TKS, I can use this as well… But I’d like the fragrance with the cited component as well due the studies that exist to support my marketing idea. 
  • The above component can be found in rose essential oil. But I’d like a synthetic fragrance with that.

    .

  • TKS  Irina! According to I’m finding the CAS for this is 4179-19-5 and it’s also called orcinol dimethyl ether. I’m for this component due some marketing ideas (there are some studies showing inhaling dimethoxymethylbenzene could modulate and even improve the skin’s barrier). It would be used in moisturizers. 




  • I’m looking for a synthetic fragrance, specially of roses, with dimethoxymethylbenzene (I don’t know if the nomenclature for this substance is the same used by the cosmetic industry). Can anyone help-me?

  • pma

    Member
    December 29, 2014 at 8:29 pm in reply to: Retinol OTC facility

    But I think you can use retinol in cosmetics in the US… 

  • pma

    Member
    December 27, 2014 at 2:34 pm in reply to: Topical Amino acids - What’s the point?

    The topical application of some amino acids can improve the skin’s barrier function. But even petrolatum can do this… Anyway, from amino acids you can develop wonderful new raw materials, like mild and effective surfactants, extremely smooth powders for makeup etc. 

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