Forum Replies Created

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  • PhilGeis

    Member
    October 19, 2025 at 10:45 pm in reply to: Roccoco Yaraay Day Cream - mislabeled sunscreen?

    Prob too lazy/ignorant to relabel for US

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    October 19, 2025 at 10:38 pm in reply to: Preservative charge for conditioner

    You need to worry about the consumer / that is a garbage preservative system.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    October 19, 2025 at 9:53 am in reply to: Roccoco Yaraay Day Cream - mislabeled sunscreen?

    Right a mislabeled drug

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    October 3, 2025 at 7:41 am in reply to: Would love your thoughts…

    For preservation. /Assume you’re using pe 1090 type source for phenoxy/EHG (9/1). It’s ok in a rinse off context but not great - isothiazolinones or a FA releaser would be much better. Suppose you’re not considering EDTA for policy reasons.

    Suggest you have too much - cut it to 0.6%. I’d also add 0.26% Benzoate.

    • This reply was modified 3 weeks, 5 days ago by  PhilGeis.
  • PhilGeis

    Member
    September 27, 2025 at 6:18 am in reply to: Alginate Mask Formulation

    How hard is your water?

    • This reply was modified 1 month ago by  PhilGeis.
  • PhilGeis

    Member
    September 26, 2025 at 11:41 am in reply to: Anyone have experience with “tariffs” yet?

    <div>Webinar - PCPC <b style=”font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit;”>Beauty at the Border: How Tariffs Are Reshaping the Cosmetics Industry</div>

    <b style=”font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit;”>Next Tuesday 9/30

    https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/event/beauty-at-the-border/?_hsenc=p2ANqtz-kA5mx8FahVRA3b-aGCVVGROt8Vy1NbEouFWeqxW2BkXA6oMwQTI9ODz4IDHTV2VjTjTpxHDGpBf2lgwjw4Xu8QXHsFQ&_hsmi=382280993

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    September 26, 2025 at 7:55 am in reply to: Hair Serum Dupe - should I try an O/W or W/O emulsion?

    Airless doesn’t relieve preservation unless sterile making and packing or post packing sterilization ala retort of food canning.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    September 22, 2025 at 11:01 am in reply to: please help my shampoo formulation

    not relevant to function - but I’d use DMDM at no greater than 2500-3000 ppm active.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    September 7, 2025 at 4:17 am in reply to: Are these preservatives and pH 10 enough for this shampoo?

    I doubt you’ll have a micro problem but why buffered pH 10? Drop the CMIT - it’s not stable at pH 10 - EDTA/Formaldehyde/alkaline pH are uniquely effective and you’re not going to find too many bugs happy with the pH.

    BUT buffered at pH 10 - risks substantial hair damage.

    https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/ics.13029

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    August 28, 2025 at 11:25 am in reply to: Skin Care Line Review of Preservatives

    Benzoic acid/Phenoxyethanol - what are pH targets? Phenoxy is too low - suggest 0.5% and add a chelator. You’ll need to qualify with challenge testing.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    August 17, 2025 at 5:08 am in reply to: Spray on hair treatment

    Catalase is a bad idea. Spraying enzymes can provoke sensitization by inhalation with risk of subsequent anaphylaxis. It’s pretty rare but too serious to risk if it does occur. You can see the stuff in smaller brands where they don’t have expertise to understand risk. .Big brands esp. avoid as they look to years of sales with millions of exposures.

    Example: major detergent (with enzyme) manufacturers test their plant employees routinely and reassign if they show sensitization.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    August 17, 2025 at 4:58 am in reply to: Preservatives

    1) Terastat N, Nipaguard SCE are antimicrobial preservatives and neither is superlative. They target fungi (yeast and mold) but poor versus bacteria - esp. Gram negative bacteria, the most common source of micro problems. Totally useless in surfactant and rinse off products. Supplier info is BS - neither is broad spectrum, neither is natural.

    Tocopherol is used as a chemical preservative antioxidant, no micro help.

    2) “Clean” is just a meaningless marketing claim. Folks claiming it generally use fewers ingredients and poor preservatives such as you named.

    3) As #1, don’t think they’re that effective in any product and your facewash will be the biggest risk for consumer contamination. Would need formulas, packaging and making info to calibrate risk.

    Good luck.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    October 28, 2025 at 7:16 pm in reply to: Preservative help.

    No, as i said it can have biocidal activity esp. at levels ~8%. Never is a long time.

    It does not take a PhD to read the literature in this field where experience and data are certainly more compelling. Good for Neutrogena - we do not know the levels and perhaps this is a unique formula where this works for efficacy and formulation - as I noted above. In any case, we do not know the policy and risk assessment applied.

    I remain concerned for fragrance free claim re your fragranced product. Would expect from marketing folks but not from technology. Do you make a preservative-free claim for the diol system?

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    October 25, 2025 at 4:12 pm in reply to: Preservative help.

    sorry for late reply - been traveling.

    A PhD in anything hardly qualifies one for cosmetic preservation expertise. Mine is Microbiology and Mycology and my understanding is based on experience and data that are often counterintuitive to conventional technical understanding.

    Diols at high levels can exert biocidal activity. I’ve found these incompatible with enough formulas that these they don’t serve product dev cycle time. They can be compromised by consumer practices in use practices more so than classic preservatives. Data rather than a lecture might be better for discussion - but of course you can share data at your discretion.

    I was responsible for with environmental risk assessments of P&G beauty products and am not familiar conventional preservative offering relevant risk . Perhaps you can share you data/perspective that responds to harm to the environment as a factor in preservative choice..

    Help me on this - you don’t like free-from claims but don’t mind making one for a fragranced product?


  • PhilGeis

    Member
    October 21, 2025 at 1:20 pm in reply to: Preservative help.

    Add phenylethyl for fragrance and claim fragrance free? Do you think that ethical?

    @8% glycol if formulas can take it why again do you need diversity - can you share data?

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    October 20, 2025 at 12:38 pm in reply to: Preservative help.

    Why so many diols and why phenylethyl vs phenoxyethyl? Think weak v fungi and staph

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    October 3, 2025 at 10:34 am in reply to: Would love your thoughts…

    I like EDTA of EGTA as it has a higher affinity for Mg and I’ve used it for a long time.

    I know benzoate seems pretty weak at that pH BUT in combination with surfactants the effective pKa goes up so it works. Some folks (esp. Unilever) find it be enough, I don’t. But please recall preservation is not for shelf life - it’s for consumer contamination.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    September 8, 2025 at 7:47 am in reply to: Are these preservatives and pH 10 enough for this shampoo?
  • PhilGeis

    Member
    September 7, 2025 at 12:58 pm in reply to: Are these preservatives and pH 10 enough for this shampoo?

    0.02% formalin - 74 ppm formaldehyde at high pH and EDTA -this is prob good enough.

    Objective if preservation is to protect consumers - CMIT will be long gone. If buggy ingredients get some good stuff.

    I’d not be confident that rinsing will prevent damage.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    August 31, 2025 at 7:47 pm in reply to: AI Friend or Foe to the Cosmetic chemist?

    Compounding factor - the journal is a Chinese predatory POS.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    August 30, 2025 at 4:50 am in reply to: Skin Care Line Review of Preservatives

    Thanks graillotion - your comments are spot on. I’ll add the “pay for play” is a piece of the action. Not the cost of the effort but a percentage of the revenue.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    August 25, 2025 at 11:16 am in reply to: Sodium benzoate and SLS in toothpaste

    Sampling in vivo is real hard - saliva itself is as poor as a skin swab. Bugs are in tissue, in and around teeth, gingiva and subgingiva, regurgitated, from sinus and nasal.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    August 22, 2025 at 11:34 am in reply to: Sodium benzoate and SLS in toothpaste

    Don’t get carried away from “might”. As noted in the article, much in vitro data and little re. microbiome in situ.

    “dental practitioners should be seeking to advise antiseptics that maintain a “balanced,” healthy, and diverse microbiome when they are used to manage any microbial-induced oral disease”. This is pretty useless BS.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    August 21, 2025 at 5:17 pm in reply to: Sodium benzoate and SLS in toothpaste

    Amazing!!!! A week and no response.

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    August 20, 2025 at 7:56 am in reply to: Preservatives

    With the right process and package, poor (i.e. natural) preservative systems can work but you need something for Gram negative bacteria.

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