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  • Pharma

    Member
    October 4, 2019 at 6:40 pm in reply to: Hydroquinone cream changes color (antioxidants?)

    Hydroquinone has a lower redox potential than tocopherol and BHT: These two may protect hydroquinone (especially BHT since it’s more reactive and gives a more stable radical) but they do not regenerate built benzoquinone. This means, if they catch oxygen or other oxidants before these react with hydroquinone, they help. Alas, regeneration is more important since bezoquinone, the oxidised form of hydroquinone, quickly reacts to form those brown pigments. Also, BHT and tocopherol usually undergo one electron redox reactions (= build stable radicals) whereas hydroquinone <-> benzoquinone is a two electron redox reaction. Ascorbic acid is your friend! It has a lower redox potential = recycles benzoquinone back to hydroquinone and does a two electron reaction too. An alternative and/or addition to ascorbic acid would be sodium metabisulfite (which is of great advantage since it can catch oxygen from your product and thereby remove the root of all evil).

  • Pharma

    Member
    October 3, 2019 at 7:47 pm in reply to: high porosity hair HELP!!

    If you use small peptides or amino acids, you’d also have a moisturiser at the same time ;) .

  • …The only “side effect” I noticed is that I have no crow feet at all…

    That’s quite obvious because petrolatum jelly is an official, proven, and approved bird deterrent ;) . Seriously!

  • Pharma

    Member
    October 3, 2019 at 7:37 pm in reply to: Kombucha in a petri dish - yeast only?

    Drinking it is certainly okay and very healthy but it’s not at all comparable to putting it on injured skin.

  • Pharma

    Member
    October 2, 2019 at 7:29 pm in reply to: Natural Surfactants

    Do you use cocoyl betaine or cocamidopropyl betaine? Fairly often, coco betaine is in fact cocamidopropyl betaine and not real cocoyl betaine. CAPB is an amide and hence may, under certain conditions, react with DHA and erythrulose. Also, both may contain impurities (reaction intermediates such as dimethyl glycine or dimethylaminopropylamine) which have a free amino group to result in some colouration of the product. You might want to contact your supplier regarding more precise information regarding composition/contamination of your coco betaine. Or just try a small batch without coco betaine (doesn’t need to be physically stable or anything) and one with only DHA, erythrulose and coco betaine to see whether or not this ingredient causes an issue. If it doesn’t, you might have too much light in your product??

  • Pharma

    Member
    October 2, 2019 at 7:00 pm in reply to: Kombucha in a petri dish - yeast only?

    Ah, I see. You want to spray living microbes on injured skin… hmm… not sure how I should feel about that… I know, using fly maggots as would dressing is an actual thing but an undefined mixture of microbes… If ever, you would have to use a pre-defined inoculum of known, non-pathogenic/beneficial yeast and then run a test series at the end (for every batch you make!) to determine which exact microbial species are really in there. Or you sterile filter your product (with or without lysis), adjust pH to your liking, and apply something which is truly safe though no longer a probiotic but a so called postbiotic.

  • Pharma

    Member
    October 2, 2019 at 6:47 pm in reply to: Can such base make soap ?

    @Fekher If you look at the different pKa values you’ll notice that one carboxylate of citric acid is more acidic than fatty acids and hence will not contribute to saponification, one has an equal pKa and hence will at best neutralise 50% of built fatty acid but won’t actually catalyse hydrolysis (and therefore there will be no free fatty acid to begin with) and only the third contributes to the reaction. Therefore, your final soap will contain 1 part glycerol, 3 parts potassium soap (neutralised fatty acids), and 3 parts dipotassium hydrogen citrate. That’s a lot citrate salt, approximately as much as there’s soap in it! In other words, if you were to take coconut oil, you’d have to take, on a weight basis, more potassium citrate than oil. Sure you want to do that?

  • Pharma

    Member
    October 1, 2019 at 6:21 pm in reply to: Can such base make soap ?
    Trisodium citrate, depending on batch & quality, is very slightly to slightly alkaline. Saponification is an acid/base catalysed reaction and hence, it will work with the weakest acid or base but reaction time will be terribly long and/or require elevated temperature (and eventually high pressure).
    Try it out! What you might want to consider is adding some potassium hydroxide or potassium soap to get the oil to emulsify with the water phase because that first step is the one which determines reaction speed in the beginning. Overcoming this first hurdle will help speeding up the whole process considerably ;) .
  • Pharma

    Member
    October 1, 2019 at 6:11 pm in reply to: Suspending Powder in Oil

    Rhodiola root powder & pipette = clogged pipette unless you were to use micronised powder or a super finely ground extract or an extract as lipophilic inclusion (think modified cyclodextrin). An extract in an emulsion could be something?

  • Pharma

    Member
    September 30, 2019 at 11:18 am in reply to: glycerin calculation

    Right, I always forget about $$$. Sorry, hobby formulator with a piss poor economic judgement here :) .

  • Pharma

    Member
    September 30, 2019 at 11:17 am in reply to: Kombucha in a petri dish - yeast only?

    Why would you want to raise pH?

  • Pharma

    Member
    September 29, 2019 at 11:58 am in reply to: glycerin calculation

    Did you consider using ester oils or waxes/jojoba?

  • Pharma

    Member
    September 28, 2019 at 7:15 am in reply to: Viscosity problems

    Self-emulsifying as it contains a small amount 3-6% of potassium stearate.

    Potassium stearate turns into stearic acid at lower pH and thereby looses its emulsifying property. You could try sodium stearate citrate which has a lower pka and hence better pH tolerance.

  • Pharma

    Member
    September 28, 2019 at 7:00 am in reply to: Unorthodox waterbased pomade!

    bgeorge said:

    …I removed the bentonite clay and made up for it with kaolin clay…
    …This was a disaster the consistency again was like when I added the borax!…

    Well, that’s obvious! Bentonite is highly thixotropic and gives way higher viscosity than kaolin. You can’t swap these two 1:1 since they aren’t identical products ;) . You would have to add a water thickener/gelling agent.
    Do you still have the separation issue when rubbing it between your fingers? I suppose it comes from your oil phase being solid or a suspension of solid wax microcrystals in oil.
  • Pharma

    Member
    September 28, 2019 at 6:51 am in reply to: Kombucha in a petri dish - yeast only?

    Belassi said:

    … no don’t ask what I was making.

    Obviously, I have to ask: What were you making? =)

  • Pharma

    Member
    September 27, 2019 at 7:46 pm in reply to: glycerin calculation
    The best math formula is always the one which works best for you (as long as the result is correct :) )!
    I don’t know if it’s important in your case but the % is relative to oil, not soap. The % in soap would have to be calculated from mg/g, ounces/ounces or spoon/pint by calculating mg glycerol and weighing the obtained soap corresponding to 1 g oil.
    I did some quick&dirty saponification and jup, if you want more than a simple chemical reaction, it’s not just done by mixing ingredients. It always looks so simple! During my studies, we also did saponification reactions where we had to titrate and back-titrate to determine the exact saponification value for the oil at hand. Not that it would have mattered, since the end product was an greasy/tacky/ugly/greyish ointment anyway LoL.
  • Pharma

    Member
    September 26, 2019 at 7:44 pm in reply to: Expiration dating/lot number on plastic
    For tube, use a sealing machine which prints it in the “rim”. I’ve been told they work with ultrasound… dunno if that’s true.
    “We” use etiquettes which don’t really stick that well and dissolve/smear fairly easily but since “we” are a pharmacy… if you know what I mean.
  • Pharma

    Member
    September 26, 2019 at 7:41 pm in reply to: Replacement for Calcium Carbonate in Natural Tootpaste

    DM also comes whitish or snow white. pH depends on processing and purity. Since it’s polymerised silicic acid it’s supposed to be very slightly acidic but given its high ion-binding capacity, pH can vary. Same goes for zeolites.

  • Pharma

    Member
    September 26, 2019 at 7:39 pm in reply to: glycerin calculation
    Wait, what? Why so complicated! The first part is all you need:
    256.5/120×92.09 type that in a calculator and get 196.8 or more precisely (for 1 gram of oil) 256.5 mg/120g/mol*92.09g/mol=196.8 mg glycerin per gram oil. Because mg/g equals per mill, if you divide again by 10 you’ll get percentage: 19.68%.
    To saponify coconut oil one requires 256.5g NaOH or 3 molecules NaOH per molecule triglyceride to end up with 1 molecule of glycerol (and 3 molecules of soap). That formula simply “transforms” the weight of 3 parts NaOH to 1 part glycerol by using their respective molecular weights (that’s the g/mol which crosses itself out in the equation).
    You could as well go with a “weightless” formula directly based on %: 256.5mg NaOH per gram coconut oil = 25.65% NaOH no matter how much oil you take divided by 120 and multiplied by 92.09 equals directly % glycerol. If your saponification value is based on KOH, simply use 3 times the molecular weight of KOH for the division instead.
  • Pharma

    Member
    September 26, 2019 at 7:18 pm in reply to: Kombucha in a petri dish - yeast only?

    Low pH also favours lactic and propionic acid bacteria which are one of the main “probiotic” microbes. During fermentation, these lactobacilli and company displace other unwanted germs, hamper their growth by producing lactic (and/or propionic) acid which lowers pH, and use up most of the sugars = no more food = no further growth. If you raise pH during fermentation, you get a higher degree of fermentation but also run a higher chance of screwing up = microbial contamination with other germs. Raising pH after fermentation might “resurrect” said unwanted germs before lactobacilli and again, you’ve lost the game. Adding a preservative to stop those will stop all and probably reduce the effectiveness of your product.

  • Pharma

    Member
    September 25, 2019 at 7:42 pm in reply to: Whitening, brightening shampoo for white fur dogs
    @LincsChemist Turns out that this is a misconception and only true for certain breeds, climates and/or certain breeds in certain climates. Most studies didn’t really find a statistically significant difference between dogs and humans. Some dogs may however not be able to quickly regenerate their acid mantle.
    1 important question still remains: groomer, dog owner, or selling stuff to dog owners? Kinda makes a difference (at least to me who wouldn’t put whitening/brightening stuff of any kind on my four doggies).
  • Pharma

    Member
    September 25, 2019 at 7:36 pm in reply to: penetrating ingridients

    …My current understanding (please correct me if I’m wrong) is that hair is dead and the only thing you can do is applying  cationics and silicones to hide the damage.

    Sure it’s dead so no reviving (unless you’re a voodoo priest :smiley: ) but you can still modify dead matter much like turning hard, brittle plastic into something flexible or elastic when adding plasticisers. In cosmetics, such “plasticisers” are called emollients but basically do the same. Adding too much will however weaken inner structure. Adding cationics and silicone polymers is a different approach (from my current understanding which may as well be wrong) and more like making composite material (or taping your joints) wherein an additional layer augments stability/flexibility without actually changing hair matter like plasticisers/emollients do.

  • Pharma

    Member
    September 25, 2019 at 7:26 pm in reply to: Viscosity problems

    What is in your glyceryl stearate SE apart from glyceryl stearate (i.e. which compound makes it SE)?

  • Pharma

    Member
    September 25, 2019 at 7:22 pm in reply to: glycerin calculation

    These 20% are what you get when actually calculating my proposed formula ;) . Depending on the quality of coconut oil, you may subtract 5-10% from those 20% depending on the amount of free fatty acids.

  • Pharma

    Member
    September 25, 2019 at 7:10 pm in reply to: Chemical/Ingredient Purchasing

    Ouh, that’s not quite where we are, there’s some larger body of water between us.

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