[OliviaLeigh]

Hi Paprik Thanks for helping

So I was thinking (and hoping!) the butters, the fatty alcohol the candelilla wax and pg4-o would all work well together to create a good thick oil base. 

I’ve added rice starch to the water phase which turns into a gel once hydrated as well as adding a nice consistency to the finished product - its not high enough in this formulation which doesn’t seem to be a problem.. yet ???? but I think after discussions here i may up it to 4% and the arrow root in the oil phase to 2% - something like that. 

The candelilla wax goes on quite thick on application but I chose it because of its absorption rate which I find to be quite fast…

This formula was created to be a hydrating anti-aging balm so I want it to feel rich hydrating but with a quick absorption and non comedogenic and no greasy after feel once massaged in well… a little goes a long way! 

I forgot to say I add 0.1% Rosemary co2 as my antioxidant which goes in with the EOs 

[OliviaLeigh]

Okay so here goes  :# 

Heated Oil phase 75 

Cetearyl alcohol                  5%

Candellia wax                     5%

Rose wax                            1.5%

Murumuru Butter                8%

Mango Butter                              5%

Shea Butter                         3%

Grapeseed Oil                     16%

Camellia Oil                         4%

Coco-caprylate-caprate       5%

Arrow Root                          1%

Lecithin  (sunflower)            2%

PG4-O                                 8%

Heated Water Phase 65 

Hydrosol                             20%

Distilled water                     10%

Rice starch                          1%

Glycerite                              1.5%

Cool Down Phase 40

Preservative 12                   1%

Sea Buckthorn CO2             0.5

Sodium Hyaluronate Gel     2.5 (1% HA)

Eo blend will be added later under 1%

[OliviaLeigh]

Hi ngarayeva001 Thank you so much, sending it over in a second:) 

[OliviaLeigh]

Like the lasagna analogy, thanks I’m working towards eventually setting up my own brand of products so how many months shelf life if I were to release this to market should I leave it? Maybe sticking to more conventional formulas would be wiser for the time being ????Still not sure if the HA is getting delivered properly in this Formula? So yes I could find cheaper options … Thanks!  Have a good day, I’m having a big lab clear out and organise  before the new ingredients arrive  

[OliviaLeigh]

Thank you! It’s so interesting… sorry to ask yet another question but why would the cetearyl alcohol possibly change it to an O/W, if that’s what you mean …

I’ll try and lower the candelilla wax too, and gel more water with more HA powder, CW does have a high absorption rate so not too heavy, sticky or waxy, but could go down ..

How do I test my formulas conductivity? It’s turning into my little Frankenstein ????‍♂️????

I have however bought some vegetal (not used before) and more olivem 1000, I’ve made decent moisturisers with it but hate the soaping/stickiness ( I use 5%) - I like my oils and butters! I have recently read you should combine it with GMS SE or similar and much lower % so I’ll try that …

Well thank you, you have answered more than what I asked which is so appreciated, these are all the things I need to know..  

[OliviaLeigh]

The formulation has been stable at room temp now for nearly 2 months ???? I think I’m right in saying I need to add magnesium chloride if it is W/O to stabilise the water phase or still do this anyway as I’ve not done this yet… I was wondering if the sodium hyaluronic acid is helping to stabilise the water phase in any way? 

[OliviaLeigh]

… I mean I just want to make the best moisturiser in the world… it’s not much to ask is it ? ???? Thank you both for your help it can be quite lonely doing this alone and hard! But I love it  

[OliviaLeigh]

Thanks!! Googling! ???? I use the pg4-o with cetearyl alcohol 5% candelilla wax 5% Coco-Caprylate-Caprate 5% lecithin 2% rice and arrow starch, various fast absorption rate oils and butters … 30% hydrosol (not 40%) a glycerate at 1.5% HA at 2.5%  eo blend and a preservative 

[OliviaLeigh]

Thank you, I’m learning every day and this is my absolute passion, your advice is really appreciated ???? I do like the texture and feel I worked hard on my ingredient profile and it feels rich but absorbs quickly and doesn’t sit heavy …I am so two minds about it, maybe less expensive water phase ingredients if they are compromised but more for texture and function … If I was to stick to this W/o how could I optimise it’s skin hydrating benefits? Thank you again