Microformulation
Forum Replies Created
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@Margreat Are you saying that you have been able to produce a STABLE 30% L-ascorbic acid lotion?
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I would like to chime in as well. While we have taken advantage of the coloration from a Botanical Extract such as Green Tea, we have always made it a point to make the perceived benefit primary and the coloring a secondary unintended benefit. That said you will find that you will have difficulty matching the coloration from batch to batch due to variations in the botanicals over time. The advantage of the approved colors is consistency from batch to batch.
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Orient Stars in Northern California sells Ferulic acid.
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They do fall short of good old safe and highly maligned Dimethicone BUT I have had some success with Bamboo Bioferment from the Formulator Sample Shop (Active Concepts).
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@moonie Glad to see another from Charleston. As you progress you may want to consider attending a meeting of the Carolinas SCC Chapter. Generally the Meeting are near Charlotte, but periodically they have meetings here in Charleston.
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I have used it with success. However, can you buy wholesale? I have yet to see it sold retail and Inolex does have a minimum order quantity of 5KG the last times I got pricing.
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Who will be making your products? The reason I ask is that factor will have an influence on pricing.
Will you be making them yourself? Unless you have a background in this area I would discourage it. It isn’t “just a bit of heating and stirring.” That is hardly the case.
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Not a big fan of honey in anything. Keratin is often used.
My best advice in regards to Ethnic Hair Care is to get back to basics and study the Anatomy and Physiology of the hair, especially in regard to the subtle differences in the different hair types. Knowing the A&P and the differences will clear up a lot for you.
If you need an experienced Formulator in this area I would suggest you reach out to Emily Bazemore at Ayari Cosmetics. I know her through SCC and I have sent many happy clients to her in this area.
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DavidW is a great source. I have sent many projects his way and he has knocked them out of the Park.
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I have been involved in sourcing these products.
As for the performance materials look to Akzo Nobel for some great options and perhaps starting Formulations.
As for the propellants I would talk with the company manufacturing the aeresol first. It is pretty specialized.
I believe in our case we found an aeresol manufacturer right outside of Chicago to do the overall Formulation.
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Great article. I like the stance to stand firm against Marketers demanding riskier preservatives. Pragmatically I see too many companies where the Formulator is not given this option and Marketing wins out more often than not.
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I am sure it would make a great article. I find so many beginning formulators spending their whole time trying to find the “perfect” preservative and missing the big picture. If only it wer as simple as adding the preservative and mixing until homogenous.
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Color Cosmetics are limited by the fact that most natural standards will simply state “no synthetic colors or fragrances.” Organic/Natural colorants have a long way to go. In addition they miss the fact that the consistency of the color and the overall eveness of color is a function of a synthetic.
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Not knowing what is being made I will throw out the Versagel line as well.
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@belassi I agree with being wedded to the older tried and true preservative systems. Heresy of all heresies I still think parabens were outstanding options. However with market demands we are seeing more and more accounts lead with “natural.” As well they are well versed in the scaremongering. Occasionally we will get great pressure to use a “natural” preservative. In that case challenge testing is the way to go. If they balk at the price I will ask them to sign a waiver. The waiver usually inspires them to re-evaluate the overall Formulation.
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I see that I missed that on my first read through.
I get approached to use new “natural” preservatives all the time. My rule is that I will use it if there is enough manufacturer guidance for the Formulator AND I will insist on Challenge testing.
Keep in mind that we do fixate on the preservative and miss the overall picture. Preservation is also a matter of using hurdle technology; pH adjustment, proper packaging, adding a chelant, possibly adding a glycol to boost the system (look to Schulke on that one) and maybe using an Essential oil to AUGMENT the preservation system. It really takes a big picture approach. In the end Challenge Testing will either validate or invalidate your system.
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If you read Harry’s Cosmeticology it discusses the problems with making a saponified Shaving Cream. Amongst the problems are the issues with compensating for evaporative water loss, the exothermic properties of the reaction and the need for controled cooling. These are issues a soapmaker is more comfortable with and more problematic in Manufacturing and Scale-up.
I remember learning about this Formulation many years ago and if I am correct the typical Formulation uses Stearic acid, Myristic acid and Coconut Fatty Acids. Some additional Glycerin was added and the Formula is saponified with a mixture of NaOH, KOH and TEA. I don’t recall why they used the three different bases but it was critical.
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I am assuming that the Totarol is the same as Biovert;
http://www.lonza.com/products-services/consumer-care/personal-care/search-by-brand/biovert.aspx
http://www.cosmeticingredients.co.uk/ingredient/biovert%E2%84%A2They even use the same exact verbiage.
The INCI is Glucose & Glucose Oxidase & Lactoperoxidase. It is a 2 part system that works fairly well. I used it several years ago as it is hardly new.
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I have been following the TiO2 issue under Prop 65 for a year or so now. Looking at the big picture I doubt it is banned in Cosmetics, but that is just my opinion.
I think if there is any real threat to TiO2 and ZnO in Cosmetics it would be due to the “perceived” threat to the environment. Here is a link to an article which outlines the issue; http://www.environmental-expert.com/articles/effects-of-titanium-dioxide-tio2-nanoparticles-on-caribbean-reef-building-coral-montastraea-faveolat-415564
Is the Science fully developed and well studied? No, at least not yet. As we saw with parabens this isn’t a factor. It all rests on how much attention it garners and how much weight marketers place on the issues. As we all know in these cases the science becomes secondary yo the marketing.
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Also keep in mind that alcohol in an emulsion COULD cause some Ostwalt Ripening (instability) in your emulsion system. Stability studies would be a good idea.
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If you read the Tech Sheets and documentation from Rhodia, they have several surfactant bases that will incorporate significant oils. However in my experience and from the feedback on the prototypes I have produced with these bases, you don’t need or want these levels of oils. The end result is oily and the rinse off is problematic. http://www.ulprospector.com/documents/1039244.pdf?bs=747&b=67103&st=20
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There is actually a dedicated posting to advertise your services.
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I am a Consultant and met with an Insurance Underwriter early in my Business when setting up Licenses and the LLC. I did not need liability insurance and it was explained that under the new FDA cGMP Guidelines the liability rests on the Distributor of the finished goods.