Microformulation
Forum Replies Created
-
Microformulation
MemberNovember 14, 2015 at 7:03 pm in reply to: Why is excess air in a lotion a problem?I don’t think anyone was condescending or sarcastic in regards to this question or even in this Forum. Without being disparaging we answered her question.
While you might think it is condescending or sarcastic many of us on here operate with the “give a man a fish….” principle. We could just give out a Formula but in the end we would be robbing the poster the opportunity to research and learn. Free formulations is not a function of this group.
So the question was down voted. Down votes exist for many reason and in the end it is not really that big of a deal. Please down vote this response. I promise it will have no effect on me whatsoever.
-
Microformulation
MemberNovember 14, 2015 at 12:27 pm in reply to: Why is excess air in a lotion a problem?@david Good point. I didn’t see that aspect but certainly can’t disagree at all.
I think the take away from this is that you should fix the manufacturing issues. Get a variable speed mixer with the option for different mixing blades. I am not a fan of Stick mixers or re-purposed kitchem mixers, all based upon my experience with mentoring crafyters.start-ups. They just don’t cut it at a certain point. An overhead mixer is an investment, but not one you will refret.
-
In my experience I have had best results with Polysorbate 80. If you read further (I will try to find the article), they recommend starting at 4 parts solubulizer to 1 part Eucalyptus oil and work slowly up. It takes a little finesse to get fully solubulized and hence a clear product.
-
Microformulation
MemberNovember 13, 2015 at 12:31 pm in reply to: Why is excess air in a lotion a problem?Despite the fact that you are able to remove an unknown amount of air the next day, air still continues to exist in the lotion. Th net result is packaging that is inconsistently filled by volume and weight. One obligation we have is to provide a consistent metered fill as reflected on the front panel of the label.
Secondly, in my experience I have seen long term instability in emulsions overtime which we have linked to aeration of the emulsion.
And lastly, it is a simple equipment/process error. Slowing the speed of the mixing once the emulsion is formed (most easily achieved with a variable speed mixer) and changing to a different mixing head would alliviete the problem. Fix the process (manufacturing error) and this solves the problem. “Tapping out” the remaining air the next day still leaves too many unknowns.
-
What is the final pH of the product? Many emulsification systems get wonky at a low pH as is common with these products. For a more acid stable system look at some of the Seppic products that are more stable at low pH. George Deckner wrote an article about it recently. If you have access to Prospector, here is the link.
-
Microformulation
MemberOctober 4, 2015 at 8:33 pm in reply to: Where can you buy cosmetics ingredients wholesale?You would need to contact the distributor of the raw material who in turn would give you the contact information for your sales person. Keep in mind that unless it is a common material or one they already stock, the repacker is unlikely to add any remaining material you don’t purchase immediately to their inventory.
You can generally determine who the distributor of a raw material is with some easy google research.
-
Microformulation
MemberOctober 4, 2015 at 5:22 pm in reply to: Supplier in US for low cost carrier oilsJE Edwards http://www.bulknaturaloils.com
-
Actually Liquid Soaps are quite common in “natural” pet markets despite their disadvantages. They are much less common in human mainstream Cosmetic markets.
Why do you refer to us as “experts” rather than experts? Comes off a bit snarky.
-
Microformulation
MemberOctober 3, 2015 at 12:33 am in reply to: Where can you buy cosmetics ingredients wholesale?You won’t find that and get wholesale pricing. If those are the quantities you are seeking you will need to stick with retail sites such as Lotioncrafter, etc.
Wholesale pricing means larger purchase quantities.
I doubt you will sway soemone by promising lots of orders down the road. Distributors here that a lot.
-
Vegan is more marketing and honestly not hard to comply with. It really adds no benefit or significantly impacts the Formulator. There are very few animal derived products that you can’t do without by using alternative materials.
Plant derived (which would reflect a “vegan” leaning) also can be taken to different levels. Is it directly sourced from the plant material? Is it processed?
I honestly eschew all the marketing terms because…I am a Scientist not a marketer. If the client so desires “natural” I will educate them on a natural standard and follow those guidelines.
-
Microformulation
MemberSeptember 22, 2015 at 3:41 pm in reply to: Cost of Broad Spectrum UV testing required by the FDA for new sunscreen formulas?Great explanation.
-
Microformulation
MemberSeptember 20, 2015 at 9:29 pm in reply to: Cost of Broad Spectrum UV testing required by the FDA for new sunscreen formulas?Good luck finding it for less than that. Last week a client paid $6250 for testing with Suncare Research Laboratories out of Winston Salem. They shopped around and this was the best they found.
-
Microformulation
MemberSeptember 20, 2015 at 3:36 pm in reply to: Another graduation degree in Cosmetic ScienceThese courses are meant for people who will work with the full range of Cosmetics, which technically excludes soaps.
I have looked at several of these programs in the US and I would urge anyone getting a BS and seeking to get into a Cosmetic company to look into them.
-
Microformulation
MemberSeptember 19, 2015 at 5:08 pm in reply to: What floral water best neutralises the smell of Shea butter ? Also what mixer can I use (DIY)Why do you assume that masking it’s smell will remove it’s “natural properties?”
Using Essential oils to fragrance/mask still complys with the standards.
The “myth” that deodorizing Shea butter somehow decreases its benefits is just that, a myth.
-
Marketing in the Ingredient declaration, while technically not allowed, is pretty common. A few years ago there was a trend to use water that had been “aligned” in some manner to make it more effective. In that case the INCI was still “water” but they tried many creative ways to list it while keeping their marketing in place.
-
No, it is not.
-
I think at that level and as a standalone the Phenoxyethanol could be your irritant. It is recommended at 0.5-1.0% but you can decrease the net amount of Phenoxyethanol by using it in combination with Ethylhexylglycerin (Euxyl PE9010). Note that if you change to a serum it may not be your best preservative due to solubility.
Why are they serums? Simply because a serum will migrate out of the mask material bette than a thicker emulsion.
-
I think I would get on the same page as your retail clients in regards to what “natural” means to them. As it has been pointed out ad nauseum, “Natural” means nothing and is very much a marketing term such as “new and improved” or “now with more chocolaty goodness.”
Since few retail clients truly know what the natural standards mean you will need to educate them and follow a natural standard. For example under many Natural standards (NSF, WF Premium) Phenoxyethanol is allowed.
It is naive to think you can buy one preservative for all your products. In most cases the preservative is formula specific. They aren’t simple “plug and play” substitutions.
-
What is your usage rate of Phenoxyethanol? Remember that Phenoxyethanol can sting when applied to the face at too high of a level. That is what gave it a bad name many years ago. Did you use it at a rinse-ff or leave-on suggested leevl?
Indeed most of these products are water based serums.
-
Also 10% Kojic acid would be way too much. It is oxidatively unstable so generally the dipalmitate salt is used. In the end it is best not attempted unless you have a significant background. It is a bot like asking your Doctor for a DIY appendectomy procedure.
-
Kojic acid is not safe for a DIY project in my opinion.
-
Microformulation
MemberSeptember 11, 2015 at 10:50 pm in reply to: Isododecane Usage For Non Transfer Liquid LipstickI knew what he was saying. Do I need to get the sarcasm sign like on Big Bang Theory?
-
Microformulation
MemberSeptember 10, 2015 at 11:45 pm in reply to: Stearic Acid Neutralization in EmulsionsIt would have a saponification value. I believe Stearic acid is around 209 or so.
-
Microformulation
MemberSeptember 10, 2015 at 4:52 pm in reply to: Isododecane Usage For Non Transfer Liquid LipstickI am a Cosmetic Chemist and I have a drivers license. Does that count?