Microformulation
Forum Replies Created
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These are all old postings. When you comment on a posting that is old and “hibernating” it pushes the newer posts back.
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Welcome, Dr. Bob. As always glad to see someone with Formal training join.
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In the US if such a product actually worked, it would be an OTC product, not a Cosmetic. I agree that some less than clear or ethical Marketing campaigns foster the misconception that an oil can grow hair, but it is just that, Marketing.
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Chemicals are always involved. “Natural” is an undefined term. You really need to refine and clarify these terms.
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Prescription products like Silvadene. I would not put a Cosmetic product on medically compromised skin such as a significant burn. It would be negligent.
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This is from over 3 years ago. I actually did it for 2 years and then they switched to someone in-house and made it more marketing bs and less technical
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I always urge people to spend some time and refine what the term “natural” means to them since it really lacks a universal definition. Treating it as a defined term will slow and confuse your R&D process.
I usually urge my clients to address this issue by using a natural standard (NSF, NPA, etc.) as a guiding tool. (Read here for some guidance). In general, the natural standards use two qualifiers;
- The initial feedstock (what goes into the start of the raw material manufacturing process) is of plant (or naturally occurring mineral) origin.
- The feedstock is only acted upon using chemical processes that occur in Nature. The COSMOS documents have a great discussion of these processes.
Not making this transition to a more mature definition will slow your R&D process and likely cause you to make decisions that will hamper the performance of your products.
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I have consulted on three (3) CBD Skincare lines already since legalization has started in certain parts of the US. I say “consulted” since I couldn’t actually Formulate the products since the raw materials themselves are Schedule I Narcotics in my State and disallowed. The Formulations have been pretty straight forward and any efficacy and testing thereof rested fully on the companies themselves. Like any other sector, much of the data is anecdotal or they will cite studies with a very small patient sampling and inconsistent results. One frustrating aspect of the entire process is that the regulations are on the State level and are still evolving. It is like shooting at a moving target.
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I have asked this question as I do a great deal of EU work. The bottom line is that you must comply with the Regulatory guidance of any market in which you sell you product.
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The problem with EWG is that clients (thankfully much less often than even 10 years ago) will sometimes approach you during the Product Development Phase and say “I want everything lower than a 2 on the EWG.” Fortunately the last few times this was brought up I was able to meet this challenge. It is the undeserved value that clients assign to this flawed website that can be the issue.
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It takes trial and error. While one might think there is a direct Mathematical correlation, that is a simplification on your part. In the end, it will be better to simply get a lower viscosity (5-50 cst) Dimethicone. It will also keep your raw material costs down.
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You would want to avoid Niacinamide (maximum stability at pH >6) and Ascorbic acid (most effective a pH 3.5 or less). The pH’s obviously don’t work well together and at the lower pH, there is a potential for the Formation of Niacin which can be irritating and cause flushing. http://knowledge.ulprospector.com/294/pcc-benefits-niacinamide/ In addition at low pH’s l-ascorbic acid and niacinamide can cause yellowing of your Formulation.
Cyclodextrin can be used in stabilizing and incorporating intermediate size molecules but it is more complex than just “adding” some cyclodextrin. It is generally reserved for Pharma applications (Cavamax W7).
MOST IMPORTANTLY, I doubt if you are using ascorbic acid without a great deal of stabilization in a more stable form that your product is stable at all. Research this forum as this topic has been discussed at length.
You definitely need to do some research before proceeding due to these issues. You are missing some basic concepts.
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I have tried numerous versions of the Saponins as well as Soapberry extracts. The foaming is horrible.
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Honestly, if this is a product that you are looking to market, Private Label is more than likely the best way to go. You will get a properly Formulated product, you can piggyback on their testing results (saving money) and then you can use your brand specific labeling.
As many will point out (and this is a huge truth to incorporate), getting an affordable and effective product is only part of the picture. Using Private Label will allow you to focus your efforts properly on Marketing the Product.
I wouldn’t even begin to discuss the mixing requirements. If this is a product you want Custom Formulated, as Bobzchemist properly pointed out, HIRE A CONSULTANT. When hiring a Consultant, ask specific questions about their experience with these products. It is much more complicated than simply dispersing Zinc oxide evenly into a run of the mill base.
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No, you should never attempt a sunscreen without the proper mixing equipment, extensive knowledge or a healthy testing budget. It is not a DIY product!
First off, the Zinc oxide is only a small factor in the SPF and Spectrum. There are numerous additives which you should be used to facilitate the consistent spread of the actives, water resistance if desired and the final skin feel. Even TRAINED Cosmetic Chemists either specialize in this area or spend a great deal of time before attempting such a product.
Secondly, the zinc oxide to be evenly and adequately dispersed will take high energy mixing. Asking if it can be handmade is an absolute disqualifier.
Lastly, Sunscreen products require costly testing to designate the SPF and Broad Spectrum properties. This is generally out of the reach of most “handmade” budgets.
No offense, but based upon your questions, this is not a product you should attempt. Period.
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Relevant Article on Prospector.
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In my experience, with the exception of anchor blades (need at least one of them), most blades are pretty affordable. I own several bow tie impellers and use them often. http://www.indco.com/five-inch-anchor-paddle
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I have used them, no issues and they are as close to Dimethicone as any other replacement I have tried.
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SMH
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I agree. I was being facetious. It was really a commentary on how with the Internet many “entrepreneurs” will minimize the difficulty, complexity and knowledge required. We ee it in this blog with many of the postings.
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I have made this product several times.
Honestly, it is the PEG90M that makes it work. The PEG45 does not suffice. You may want to search carefully as there are many providers and sometimes thgeINCI’s vary.
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Is that based on a silicate? I can’t recall the specific product but I was asked to replicate it several years ago. Once the material was dissolved (and I believe it uses a Veegum as well) the pH was way up there.
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I hope Grapefruit Seed Extract is not part of your preservative system. It is rather ineffective.