Microformulation
Forum Replies Created
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@Belassi Good point. And many start with here is a product I like with lots of PEG’s. I want to make it “natural” and it has to be as good, if not better.
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We had to find alternatives to the Alconox as it was not allowed under the Organic Handling Program.
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In many cases, our manuals referenced Alconox as one of the preferred agents but also endorsed other similar products.
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I am not aware of an Industry-wide protocol.
When we developed SOP’s for our QA/QC programs, we used the manuals that were supplied by the manufacturers. They will endorse a specific type (not brand) in their instructions. We would craft our SOP’s using their guidelines and cite the manual as a reference in the SOP.
Now, if you are seeking to meet many Organic and “Natural” Certifications, you may be tasked to develop an “Organic Material Handling Program”, a document to augment your SOP’s. It’s goal is to put in place policies and procedures that ensure that organic materials maintain their integrity throughout the handling of the material, from receipt of the material all the way to shipping of the finished goods. If this is the case, you will define appropriate and approved cleaning solutions allowed to be used in organic processing. You will also define Organic Pest Control measures. In all honesty, these programs are not hard to implement, as the certifying body usually provides a great deal of Guidance and even sample documents for the design of these programs.
I hope that answered your question.
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You can add it after the Carbopol as long as you don’t neutralize the carbomer. If you read the Technical articles, they recommend that with emulsions, you neutralize the carbomer until after emulsification. This assumes that the Carbomer is added to the continuous phase to stabilize the emulsion. In a serum (essentially a thickened simple solution), it is a moot point. You could simply neutralize last.
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Leverites! Sounds like a Religious cult. I heard Dr. Bob has been around so long, his first formulation was called “mud.” 50% wt.wt dirt to 50% wt./wt. water. Mix until homogenous. (Just joking by the way).
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I have consulted on several of these lines. I stress CONSULTED since the signature raw material (CBD Extract) is still a schedule one product in my state.
The challenges are multifold. First off, there are many initial studies that purport an action of CBD but they have not yet been followed up on to a great extent. So (as is the case in many products) you must turn a blind eye to claims substantiation. Secondly, many of the assigned claims encroach upon the OTC monographs. While the Federal Government is not currently over ruling the States on the legality of the products, the FDA still has authority over OTC drugs. In fact in Washington State, the FDA has recently exercised this control.
As far as Formulating, these products are not terribly difficult. The client MUST use a tested and standardized sample of the CBD Extract. The best products use a standardized CO2 Extract diluted in a carrier oil. This best facilitates the calculation and delivery of a metered dosage of the proposed active. Some lines use the CBD Oil (in Formulating, you can treat it as Hemp Seed Oil for all intents and purposes) but in my experience, the lines that use the oil are more positioned in the theoretical skin benefits than any drug like activity.
Unless the poster wants to do the actual lab work and have someone advise on this, it is critical that they use a California-based Formulator. The actives in this case can not be shipped across state lines. -
I have done a lot of Dog shampoos in the US Market in the last 3 years. Most “natural” Dog shampoos are liquid soaps. Look at Vermont Soaps for a representative product. Secondly, if you are looking to get more complicated and make a product loaded with actives and benefits, don’t. The Vet Market has a very tight price point and it is difficult to sell a “prestige” product in this niche. It is no accident that the bulk of the dog shampoos are sulfate based products.
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You need to ask; what pH does MAP need? What pH does an AHA (Glycolic acid) work best at? What is the appropriate pH that Kojic acid works best at? Answer those questions and you will see that you need to abandon this combination.
http://www.thecosmeticchemist.com/education/skin_science/glycolic_acid_friend_or_foe.html
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Actually, if you read the documentation they recommend a ph of 7 minimum. Here is the issue. Your other ingredients need a lower pH, hence the reason you may want to reconsider your Formulation.
For example, what benefit do you propose with Glycolic acid at the appropriate pH for MAP? With the Kojic acid? And even more important, would they be stable at a basic pH?
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MAP will discolor at a pH <6. I would wager that this is a large part of your problem.
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I follow the market closely. If you see some of the class action suits, you would probably face some sort of suit in any state. The Honest Company and several other companies have faced class action lawsuits behind “natural” and “organic” claims. Since the attorneys collect the bulk of the fees and the defendant generally settles quickly out of court, these suits are gaining in popularity.
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What is your definition of “organic” and more importantly does your region have a legally defined term for “organic?”
In the US, if you used these ingredients even at a hundredth of a percent or lower and wanted to be ethical, honest and transparent, the answer is no, it would not be considered “Organic’ (USDA NOP).
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@David d I just replaced the electrode on my Mettler pH meter after 3 years and no joking, I could have bought an entire Edge for what the electrode alone cost and still gone out for a nice meal. I may order the conical electrode to try since it is still affordable.
I mounted my Edge to the wall and also ran it into my server with the USB port. Never got my Mettler to do that.
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@MarkBroussard hit each and every talking point I wanted to touch on. I for one will sign an NDA BUT not until we have signed on for the job. I interpret them narrowly. Several years ago I was urged to sign one for $1 and the client was what we call a “tire kicker.” Several months later a more serious client approached me with the exact same “broad” idea for a product line and I had to pass ethically. I made a dollar and lost several thousand dollars in the process.
As it has been said, either we have heard of your idea OR (as nobody has touched on) the idea is not possible and has no proof of concept. I had someone send me a message just last week outlining a miraculous product that really existed only in Science Fiction. To compound the issue they closed with “it has to be natural and Chemical free.” I passed, hard.
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Working as a Consultant in the start-up “fringe” of the Cosmetic Industry has opened my eyes to these companies that foolishly try and use fear: to sell their products. Firstly, I submit that since their proposed market is quite vocal in Social media, they overestimate the effectiveness of a chemophobia based marketing campaign. Once they get to a larger Market they will find that this fear-based sales strategy is outdated and the Market as a whole has evolved. The clients I am working with that penetrate into the larger markets are finding that rather than taking a negative fear-based stance, it is more effective to be transparent and to communicate a more positive message of sustainability and adopt an LOHAS approach. As a Marketer once told me recently, you wouldn’t brag about your kids by saying “at least they are better than the neighbor’s miscreants” but you would use positive talking points. This is no different in the Cosmetic Market.
That said, I hope they will realize the limitations of their flawed campaign. -
@PerryI was equally put off by their letter. It was not written from an empirical view of a Scientist and simply rehashed some of the very same fear-based marketing that we have all seen far too many times in the last 10 years or so.
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@BobzchemistThanks for the recommendation on the Hanna pH meter. I had money set aside for equipment and I ordered one. Got it yesterday (overnighted) and it is great, especially for the price,
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Hardly new. I have a client established in the Prestige Market whose lines has existed for >5 years now and she uses Chia as her signature ingredient.
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I saw this article come up in a Facebook group about a month or so, My response was identical to yours. However, I have to say that I see these crap articles and Marketing several times a week. It is simply too pervasive to try and correct aggressively. There exists a certain sector of the market that is simply invested into the “Naturalistic Fallacy” and builds their product line around this foundation. On the bright side, I believe in the big picture (when you look at the Cosmetic Market as a whole), it is a vocal minority and for the most part it’s targeted audience is getting more sophisticated and less gullible.
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ORAC is still used a great deal in Cosmetics. I would learn the basics before dismissing it based upon Food Science. Alternatives are the Trolox Test or the Folin-Ciocateu reagent test. Even ORAC beats a SWAG.
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Have you done ORAC testing or are you doing this “informally?”
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@Perry SPAM
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Still not Cosmetic Science. This forum is flooded already.
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How is this germane?