Microformulation
Forum Replies Created
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I am not a fan of Phenoxyethanol by itself. I would recommend using it in combination with a boosting agent (Ethylhexylglycerin as in Euxyl PE9010) or (Capryl Glycol in Saliguard PG). I would also recommend a chelant as well.
Here is a great article by George Deckner that discusses the preservative at length.
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I have never had an issue getting this information, but in the end it will take some experimentation.
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This is an old post. almost 2 1/2 years old. It is unlikely you will get an answer. However, those questions can be easily found in the technical documents.
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I generally avoid non-technical terms such as “vile” and “nasty” when discussing raw materials, but that is just my opinion. not a hard fast rule.
I believe that you will see that MIT/MCT combinations became more common as the bias against parabens grew. While these combinations can be used properly, they were never a go to system for me.
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I will have to say that perhaps I may have been one guilty of poo-pooing a beginning question. I was unaware of the students in the Forum. I think my reaction was that I had seen their same question posed greater than 10 times in some Facebook groups. Also, not knowing that they were students, I also thought we may have had a case of a person who chooses not to search the Forum. Infrequently we have seen some people use the Forum to essentially ask “can I please get a full Formulation for free.” I apologize if this is not the case.
My frustration was assuaged by the moderator pointing out that we had an “Advanced Questions” section, which I will utilize in the future.
As for the bickering, I think this is more a matter that is ubiquitous over the whole internet, not just this Forum. My only suggestion is to not be afraid to shut it down earlier. The particular post in question ceased to be of any benefit to the advancement of knowledge several responses before you rightfully shut it down.
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Simple. In your resume, lead-up talks and interviews focus on the skills that you developed and come off as extremely knowledgeable of these skills and the processes. If asked about being a contractor, spin it as an advantage; “It allowed me to get a much broader base of experiences than I would have otherwise.” I have conducted numerous interviews at that level and it is really more about how you present yourself and how you can communicate your strengths.
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This is the very reason that many have turned from Olivem 1000. It takes a very light touch (build viscosity with the Glyceryl Stearate, use the lowest level of Olivem possible) and do not be afraid of using esters with the Formulation to limit the soaping. 1% Dimethicone is a tried and true way to minimize it with not just this but also other emulsifiers that cause soaping. Saying it shouldn’t be necessary is missing that point. In the end, you will likely have some end users who will still comment on the effect even with the best-actualized Formulation. So, in the end, take Bill’s advice and use this as the motivation to use one of the many newer and superior emulsifiers. The market has come a long way since Olivem 1000 was introduced.
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“Unfortunately many cosmetic products are marketed with unsubstantiated drug claims. Unless they are “curing cancer” FDA just don’t have time to follow up.”
If you follow recent FDA actions, this is an incorrect statement. The FDA has been following up on numerous lines which make false claims for their Cosmetic products. On one hand, the FDA does not have the staff to follow up on every line, but with the increased usage of online sales, the FDA does have to ability to identify and censure the offenders. It has been increasing of late.
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You should have a Preservative Effectiveness Test (PET) done on the Forulma and repeated anytime the formula is changed whatsoever.
For each Production run you would want Micro (APC) performed. -
Off topic, but we either need a compartmentalized area for DIY’ers or alternatively a compartmentalized area for people working in the Commercial Market. I have been a member for over 10 years now and it is getting harder to follow the hard Technical topics when they are interspersed with the “I am not a Chemist but I love make-up so I decided to google” posts.
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I disagree. The goal of these lawsuits are to be a nuisance and obtain an out of court settlement. There is a very small likelihood it would ever be argued.
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I would do better and more credible research before accepting conclusions. You are citing an article with no Journal articles in support or footnotes, written by a Journalist.
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Grahams contains Vanilla tincture. Your logical jump may be flawed.
Ingredients
Water (Aqua), Theobroma oil (cocoa butter), Olea europaea fruit oil (olive oil), Butyrospermum parkii seed oil (shea butter), Simmondsia Chinensis seed oil (jojoba oil), D-alpha tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E), vanilla planifolia tincture, allantoin, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, cetyl alcohol, caprylic/capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Glucoside, cetostearyl alcohol, bisabolol, sclerotium gum.
You would need to list the full ingredients in your current product. Many other actives can cause flushing.
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I think @Belassi hit on the issue early on. Don’t spitball on the percentages. These are saponified products and you need to use SAP values as an integral part of the Formula design.
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You don’t want to use any Chemicals?
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90% is far above and beyond even the claimed efficacy of Minoxidil made by Upjohn, the RX supplier, so I am skeptical of a 90% claim. This is properly a Science based group. How did you arrive at 90%. What is your methodology? How many subjects?
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I have to agree with all. In almost every case where I was asked to “finalize” the Formula, what I was really presented with was more of a Product Development Brief/Marketing with some minimal and technically insufficient “research” on normal uses. I still had to create an actual Formulation. This is a very serious, yet common disconnect in this market.
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Essential Oil levels are tricky. There are regulatory limits and in my experience, less is more. As a general rule of thumb, most will use 2% as their maximum level.
As many have pointed out, it is unlikely that your actives are doing a whole lot. I do recognize them as FSS/Active Concepts products and I am aware of their claims. You are at the higher level. As you get further along you will see that they are adding to the cost.
8% Glycerin might be a bit high. You might get better results with 3% Glycerin and 5% Propylene Glycol (or Zemea, Propanediol if you have an issue with PG).
Lastly, keep in mind that the decision to make the best Formulations you can as a Hairdresser could limit you a bit. On the surface these Formulations look ridiculously easy. As someone who works with start-up Formulas frequently, there is a lot of detail that you will miss out on that will require some rework in Contract Manufacturing. No offense. It is this same need for experience that keeps me from buying a Flowbee and cutting my own hair. -
2.7% Essential Oils is likely too high.
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Green Chemistry is a rarely used term and really referred to as “natural’ (no legal definition) or “sustainable.” It comes from a book by Dr. John Warner of the Babcok Institute. Incidentally he will be speaking at the NYC SCC Meeting. https://www.acs.org/content/acs/en/greenchemistry/what-is-green-chemistry/principles/12-principles-of-green-chemistry.html
“Natural” is a hot marketing driven topic in the Cosmetic Industry which incidentally has no legal definition and in fact can present increased liability if you make the claim frivolously. Perry did a great webinar several weeks ago that really explains the entire topic.
Remembr though that a natural product is not significantly safer and even can be less effective than a mainstream product.
In my opinion only, I believe that in the coming years you will see the Industry adapt more to a LOHAS philosophy. This is a lucrative market sector.
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I love the Seppic brand Taurtrate coploymers. Very easy to use. Unfortunately in today’s market of “natural” they get some push-back. For sunless tanners (I do a lot of those), they are my go-to system.
Olivem 1000 takes a light, experienced touch to make a good eye cream. Too many lines just raise the viscosity by maxing out the Olivem. This gives a great deal of soaping, much like Ewax. However, when paired with a viscosity builder and the right emollients, it is definitely an option.
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Lastly, if I were looking to get a bonafide education in Cosmetic Science, i would most definitely avoid Etsy and look at credible resources.
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Emulsifying Wax (EWax) is an emulsifier that many beginners will start with and can make stable emlusions. The issue with it is that it is often perceived as heavy and will exhibit drag or “soaping.” To best visualize the issue, think of running a crayon over your skin. It can be overcome. HOWEVER, there are numerous superior emulsifiers out there. It is very uncommon to see EWax in mainstream commercial products. As you grow as a Formulator you will get the chance to try numerous superior emulsifiers.
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From a Marketing standpoint, you may get more resistance to the Germall Plus (Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate). This is a “Formaldehyde Donor” type product. This is a bit of a misnomer, however the Market bias is there. It can be used in a high water containing formula as well as surfactant systems.
Optiphen Plus is another preservative for WATER based products as well. (INCI:Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sorbic Acid). It is best used at a pH of 6 or below. Phenoxyethanol as a whole is better received, however you may get some resistance still from the Market.
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You can send an email to sales@microformulation.com. They can send you a quick FAQ which discusses fees, has links to account paperwork and Product Devlopment forms, as well as a projected R&D timeline.
This will sound like a poor statement from a Business point of view, but it is best to do a “Market Analysis” before contacting a Chemist to provide the Formulation. You will want to look at competetors to your product, rough price points, their Marketing “story” as well as the demand for “natural” in the market sector you are positioning yourself in. If you feel that “natural” is a requirement, learn more about what this implies. There is no real legal definition for “natural”, however there IS danger of liability for claiming “natural” without a strong standard. Perry did a great webinar several weeks ago that will really acquaint you with the current landscape of this term. Leaving it undefined greatly complicates the R&D process.
https://chemistscorner.com/cosmetic-chemists-guide-to-natural-and-organic-cosmetic-standards/
David Steinberg also did a great Powerpoint presentation on preservation at the Midwest SCC which you can find in this google search; https://www.google.com/search?num=100&q=david+steinberg+preservation+scc&oq=david+st&gs_l=serp.1.0.35i39k1j0l3j0i131k1j0l5.4493.8091.0.10432.8.8.0.0.0.0.323.1121.0j3j1j1.5.0….0…1.1.64.serp..3.5.1118…0i67k1j0i20k1j0i131i67k1.uI94FqjTJms
Do you preperation! This is key. Be well funded. The costs across the board are pretty fixed. Also, look at your strengths, honestly. Are you a Salesperson (Business oriented) who needs a Chemist or a Chemist who needs a Salesperson? You can’t do both.