Microformulation
Forum Replies Created
-
The absolute maximum I would recommend anyone doing is perhaps using the Microcult slides as a tool WITH outside testing. Unless you are a microbiologist, you really should outsource this testing. If the testing is too expensive, this speaks to an issue with your Business model and funding, not a Technical issue.
-
“I have the best evidence in the world. I use it. when I get burned“I have a rock that I keep in my pocket when I am in the woods. I have never been attacked by a Leprechaun so it is a proven Leprechaun repellent.“I have the best evidence in the world. I use it. When I walk in the woods.“
-
No, if you allowed blood to coagulate, it would become solid and granular. Heparin would prevent this and it would maintain fluidity in the cream. Still an infection control issue, biohazard, snake oil and a bit disgusting.
-
I would imagine that the Heparin (an RX anti-coagulant IV administered in the US) is keeping the blood from coagulating so it remains fluid.
-
It was a cool technology but honestly never went far outside of some niche products. I made a great powder to cream self-tanner for a client but that market sector is so tight on material costs that it fizzled. Really cool but too expensive.
-
1. You would need to post the entire Formula if you would like people to weigh-in fully.2. A Sugar scrub should be in an oil or silicone base. It will not work in an aqueous base.
-
If I am correct, it is a finished product, not a raw material or a class of material. Pure marketing.
-
It is based on Evonik’s “Powder to Cream” Technology they were pushing a few years back. Likely, they will not accept the raw materials as “natural” but there is no real alternative.
-
I have used Leicidal Complete in a full line of Shampoos and Conditioners (8 products in all). We used the Leucidal Complete at 4% with a chelant (Dermofeel PA-3) and all 8 products passed PET/Challenge Testing.
-
Leucidal SF Liquid had very poor yeast/mold coverage. If you like that product, the Leucidal Complete or Leucidal Max (newest) are much better. Again, unless you can define a clear picture of what you consider “natural”, the search for ingredients in this category will be difficult and a barrier to R&D.
-
1.5% Allantoin is a lot to try and solubulize and in the US at least, above the allowable Cosmetic levels. That could be your culprit. I have seen this exact issue in other Formulations.
-
In the US (the Market I feel free commenting on), outside of the Farmer’s Craft Market, this is hardly ever seen. In fact, one of the few places I heard of doing it stopped suddenly and pulled the stock. IAs far as being more sustainable, we are seeing more indie lines go with glass, more packaging touting a percentage recycled materials and even some cellulose-based packaging that is biodegradable.
-
Also, @CedarWind108, unless you have significant experience, don’t attempt an AHA product. For example, do you know what the max AHA percentage and the lowest recommended pH for an at home product per the CIR standards are? What must you include on the labeling? These are all valid questions you must look into.
-
In their documentation they recommend; “A pH value of 5 - 7.5 is required to avoid hydrolysis and free acid formation, best stability at pH 7.”
https://www.ulprospector.com/documents/1556314.pdf?bs=613&b=748034&st=1&r=na&ind=personalcare -
HLB is for non-ionic emulsifiers. This is not an appropriate emulsifier for HLB calculations. In this case, forget HLB and use the recommendations of the distributor as listed in the above sheet.
-
This is the product that they are reselling.
https://www.ulprospector.com/documents/1516434.pdf?bs=33468&b=715369&st=20&r=na&ind=personalcareThere is much more guidance and even a sample Formulation.
-
I am puzzled that the retail sites are selling Sucragel. I used it early on as I get to try a lot of products before they are widely available. Even with having a direct line to Kinetik’s Technical services, it was not the easiest product to get to work successfully, especially if you subjected it to stability testing. It would often fail months in which in my experience is unusual.
Perhaps more useful are these recent links; https://knowledge.ulprospector.com/8100/pcc-best-water-based-thickeners/
https://knowledge.ulprospector.com/3937/pcc-natural-based-thickeners/?st=31
In addition, I have gelled oils with fumed silica (requires homogenization). Also, you can do an ok job with Candellia Wax in some instances.
@Belassi did touch on something important. Esters perform much better in a make-up remover than just oils. A combination of the two is often used.
-
I believe that one of the problems, especially as we see more Botanical products used, will be reconciling the valid uses of these products in ethnobiology with their Cosmetic (topical) benefits. Unfortunately too many make the flawed logical jump of “if they work orally, they have to work on the skin as well!” This leads to some of the unsubstantiated claims we see which in the end have to rely upon anecdotal data. On the other side of the coin will be the products that have some valid topical effect, could surpass the allowable Cosmetic claims and encroach upon the OTC monographs. While the latter compounds are likely less common than people believe, there will exist some that do deliver these effects.
In summary, reconciling the “Natural” market with bonafide Science.
-
It would not be a good gel former. It is rather sicky and would be closer to the consistency of molasses. Hardly a positive sensorial.
I did an entire line with the Powdered form as well as the Hydroclycolic extract. Many will not get the reference, but it really reminded me a great deal of benzoin tincture when it was mixed or even if you tried to wash the powder off.
-
Right at 1%?
-
I have worked with Dragon’s Blood Extract which is the standardized form of Croton Lechleri Resin Powder in a Hydroglycolic Base.
There is some uncertainty here. “…how can I make it?” If you are asking about making the extract, don’t. It needs to be standardized as does every extract. It is even more so important in this case as the extract is highly colored and even a small amount will have an impact on the appearance of the final product? If you are asking how to make a gel with it, that is easier. It incorporates into a product at less than 40C. You will get little to no guidance on the proper percentage to use, but go as low as possible. As I mentioned, it will greatly impact the final color of the product and at higher levels, the color is less desirable.
@belassi Here is a link to a “sell sheet” from a supplier of this product. It has a good background story and has some ties to your corner of the World. The sell sheet promises multiple wonderful skin benefits, but as it comes from the distributor, I would follow it up with some better references of course. https://www.ulprospector.com/documents/1503854.pdf?bs=4674&b=705252&st=1&sl=60976006&crit=a2V5d29yZDpbQ3JvdG9uIExlY2hsZXJpIFJlc2luIFBvd2Rlcl0%3d&k=Croton|Lechleri|Resin|Powder&r=na&ind=personalcare
-
What benefit do you feel that the Coconut Milk will bring to the Product and in the same vein, what positive effect would your clients experience? What are your citations? Is this based on “what others say” or a blog not properly supported?
I ask these questions not to challenge you personally, but to communicate some thoughts that we should consider each time we use an active or a raw material. Likely for each and every blog you cite, I could cite a conflicting blog. These are not valid sources.
In the end, you may simply arrive at the decision that it is in their for marketing reasons, that being it makes the product attractive or desirable to a demographic of the market. This is very common, especially in an emotional market such as Cosmetics. However, if this becomes the case, you can then decide that it really doesn’t matter what percentage you use and likely you would keep it quite low.