Microformulation
Forum Replies Created
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I have made anhydrous L-ascorbic acid products, in fact, one of the most popular is my Formulation. However, the cost was prohibitive. Small batches are not feasible for Commercial use. In the end, it is better to use a derivative.You really can’t say or prove credibly that L-Ascorbic acid stimulates collagen synthesis. That is firstly a physiological (drug) claimed not allowed. Secondly, that has never been shown to any real dissertation level studies with a high enough statistical sampling to be valid.Again, most trained and experienced Formulators move onto derivatives. -
L-Ascorbic acid is widely unstable. The above-defined storage conditions would not be feasible for a Commercial product. Many of the mechanisms to stabilize L-Ascorbic Acid are proprietary, licensed technology such as Ferulic acid, which is an L’Oreal IP.As such, most experienced Formulators will move onto the more stable derivatives. A great product uses multiple actives to deliver the credible Cosmetic claims. To spend so much time on one aspect slows the R&D process. Simply use a stable derivative (too many to list) and concentrate on the product as a whole.
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@Dtdang Yes, but since there is no emulsifier, the final pH is indeterminate. Also, it is a well-accepted fact that Kojic acid is unstable and that Kojic acid can be irritating. Its use is limited by regulatory standards in most regions. It also is really most effective in certain Fitzpatrick Skin types and not the best choice for age-related changes in skin color. For Whitening, it is best addressed to a Western African demographics, Fitzpatrick Type VI.
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Did you use Kojic Acid or Kojic Acid Dipalmitate? The dipalmitate form is more stable. The Resveratrol did turn carrot orange over time.
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I have tried this product in a pinch, but it is not very stable. INCI: PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, propylene glycol, resveratrol
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1. You need a better emulsification system. Borax??2. You can add a rapidly spreading (low angle) emollient to increase spreadability and to get an elegant skin feel.3. Both Kojic Acid and Arbutin are irritating, Hence they are hardly ever used together.4. Why 3% Tocopherol? This is actually likely to cause rancidity at this level, not prevent it.5. Why so much TEA (Triethanolamine) to Carbomer? Your carbomer level is at a very low level. The distributor of Carbopols recommends closer to a 1.5 TEA/1 Carbomer ratio.6. Only PET/testing will absolutely determine the answer, but I would postulate that you may have an under-preserved product with only Methylparaben at 0.1% alone.That is my initial impression.
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@ozgirlI first thought Hand Sanitizer when I looked at the deck as well. The OP referred to it as a Body Spray so I had to revise that initial assessment. This looks a lot like a Victoria Secrets Product I knocked off about 10 years ago.
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I will weigh-in on this all, much as I have in the past. One of my first University Internships was with Ciba Geigy doing QC sampling and QC Testing of Trans Derm Nitro patches. IT IS NOT EASY TO GET PRODUCTS TO PENETRATE INTO THE BODY. We did it based on established and complicated Calculus-based Pharmacokinetic Formulas. It relied upon a strong concentration gradient (much more active material in the reservoir of the patch), an engineered membrane with known channel properties, actives with very small molecular sizes (<500 daltons) and other proprietary processes and materials. It is naive and contradictory to Pharmacokinetic principles to believe that you can effect any real penetration or that you can establish a significant blood/plasma concentration with a simple topical product.
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@Gunther Then you still have a nonstandardized extract still, albeit a better extracted one. It doesn’t address the need for accuracy and batch-to-batch consistency.
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This group needs a like button! “….it isn’t a cosmetic school.” was right on point.
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You would need to post the Formulation in order for anyone to answer.As an aside, these are not simple Cosmetic products. In the US they must be registered; https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/how-fda-classifies-personal-lubricants-what-510k-andreas-maulhardt/If your line gets a large enough Market presence, you would see FDA activity and would likely get a cease and desist on your product.
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The PG is cheap as dirt and adds moisturization. Except for the IFHRA Fragrance Declaration (the claimed fragrance components) the Formula is pretty basic and just about every material provides function. Why the push to remove ingredients from an already basic bare bones Formula?
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1. The “raw materials” you see after D&C Yellow #10 actually are the components of the fragrance that must be declared in the EU. Pretty basic question.2. This is likely a fragrancing Body Spray with suspended mica that has been colored with FD&C/D&C dyes. The alcohol is a solvent and is likely mixed with water (and PG) to decrease some of the perceived drying of the Alcohol. This is very common in these products.
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pH of “No More Tear” shampoos is secondary to the surfactant selection.
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Yes, it would not be allowed in a project under a Natural Standard as ethoxylated compounds are avoided.However, the real danger is minimal. The newer ethoxylated compounds have 1,4 Dioxane in minuscule amounts, generally at about 2 ppm. It is important to remember that it is not the presence of a substance that is the issue, but rather the dosage. In this case, the real danger is minimal. But as we all know that the natural standards will address these concerns.
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You can achieve the same result with Carbopol Ultrez 20. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1z_yRupdCA8cWpMplKpLzYqpW5DUFApKx/view?usp=sharing
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And there you go, you can save the 12 hours of lab time to learn the same thing.You may want to see if you can get Emulsence HC from Inolex, although I imagine that will be problematic as well.
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Again, I guess Pepsi.
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Somewhat related, but I have used Niacinamide with both MAP and SAP, kept the pH at 5.5 and had a stable product substantiated by outside testing.
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I would wager that your emulsification system is weak and I would readdress that aspect of the Formulation first and foremost.Behentrimonium Methosulfate is the primary emulsifier in BTMS-50 and you have to avoid it since you can’t get the raw material (although I wager you could get a small amount online and get it shipped, medium pricey but worthwhile). So, you drop the primary emulsifier and basically say. “Eh, I didn’t need it anyway” without replacing it.You may see better slip with Cetearyl alcohol than you might with Cetyl alcohol. Glyceryl Stearate is a low HLB emulsifier and not likely to work alone. I doubt the additional Polysorbate (20 or 80?) will augment the Glyceryl stearate sufficiently.
There is a breakdown of the HLB values. (an older method, works with certain emulsifiers, not the Holy Grail). If you notice, to use Glyceryl Stearate and Polysorbate 20, you would need to use the Polysorbate 20 at a much higher level where it would have adverse effects on the final feel.Even this step just assures a stable emulsion. You would still need to do some trial and error to address the conditioning and stability of the Centrimonium. There are also other raw materials I am also sure that you could get that you could consider as well.Taking this qualified approach to your Formulation demonstrates why you should make an effort to learn the fundamentals, details too basic but necessary to be appropriately addressed in a Forum such as this. LEARN THE BASICS.Here is a great document on the HLB System. It works well when it is used in the correct application and with the proper emulsifiers. Even so, it is a predictor of stability but must be backed up with actual lab bench time.