Microformulation
Forum Replies Created
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Alison said:Hi Microformulation,I’ve kept the gluconolactone very low at 0.3%, potassium sorbate also at 0.3% and allantoin at 0.5%. Some of the allantoin settles at the bottom as a white powder. However, the crystallization is a new experience since the addition of gluconolactone (which I had not been using before).
So, you have some undissolved Allantoin in the product?
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I would suggest you search the group and do some research. Generally, complete Formulations are not provided as this is work product of most of us.Do your research and in the end, you will be better off.
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You would need to include percentages since this is a solubility issue.Lacking this, I would suggest Allantoin is your culprit, not the Gluconolactone.
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This site is for basic questions, not questions that become “work product pretty quickly. Most Professionals participate on a voluntary basis. If you want specific questions answered quickly, you need to hire a consultant.In my case only, I will generally not give free advice in a message, If you ask a question in the Forum someone may answer it at some point. HOWEVER, this group should be a tool to advance Professionally, not a simple source of questions. With this approach, you are mitigating and marginalizing your technical growth.
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Cosmetic Lines survive more so from strong Business practices. In my opinion, only, I would look at my budget and look for funds. I have had clients go this route. Any profits are minimal at this lower level and the smaller inventory can be a barrier. Scalability is an issue. With an effective marketing plan, you could easily outstrip small runs. I have seen this scenario and you may be posting “out of stock” products during the time it takes to develop a new manufacturing relationship for more traditionally sized Commercial runs.
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Rockstargirl said:I’ve always just tossed it in the water mix and poof it’s gone. And I use 3%.You may want to check on that. The listed solubility in water cited in a Technical document is 0.57 g/100 mL (at 25 °C) and 4.0 g/100 mL (75 °C).
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So much wrong above. For example, “It seems somehow reasonable to assume that using all of these active
ingredients together at maximum dosage would be more effective than
using only one active ingredient.” You will see an increase in adverse reactions, it won’t be far more efficacious, it is likely regulated far more strictly than you believe and it would HARDLY be a first-timer formulation. -
I worked with a company where they billed the MOQ’s based on a scoring system of 1 to 3.Class 1 was a product that you would most likely use regardless. They may even already be in stock. (For example Glycerin).Class 2 was a product we didn’t carry usually but we could develop opportunities to use the material. Oftentimes we would use the remaining raw materials in our Private Label programs.Class 3 was something you knew was going to sit in Supply forever and unless they did subsequent runs, it was likely to be discarded. We would bill the full amount of the purchase to the client.
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PhilGeis said:Natural
Best answer yet.
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“We use laser aligned water made deep in a mine in Ukraine. Our products are aligned with the Earth’s magnetic field.”They then insisted that when we staged the pallets of finished goods we aligned the pallets on a North/South axis using a compass.
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PhilGeis said:back to the regulatory point
The intent is evident and documented above - in US this product as a drug.
In addition to the monograph, please comply with appropriate 21cfr 201 regulations from registration to CGMP.
https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/cfdocs/cfCFR/CFRSearch.cfm?CFRPart=201People will disregard your citations, try to play the system, and skirt the OTC intended use.I went through an FDA Audit on this issue years ago. Believe me, the FDA Inspector sided with @PhilGeis and they were neither fooled nor amused. -
ozgirl said:I would love to be a minimalist but unfortunately the marketing team requires the fairy dust ingredients.Where possible I try to use fewer ingredients in the base formulas.
Been there! I was known for getting Formulations rejected with the simple Marketing comment, “The ingredient list is too short.”
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@GeorgeBenson I will give you an exercise to see. Have your overly complicated products priced out for commercial manufacturing. CM’s are not charities and these material costs as well as the impact of MOQ’s will be billed to you. There are valid supply chain issues as well as inflationary forces causing these materials to increase in cost. My inbox is filled with price updates from suppliers on a nearly weekly basis. So, when you sit down with a manufacturer and determine your costs to run a minimum piece count of 1,250, expect a big invoice for multiple overlapping materials. In most cases, this will be your moment of truth.While lesser in scope, these raw material costs are affecting retailers as well. I am retained by one of these Cosmetic Raw Material retailers as a consultant and they are dealing with the same issues.A Cosmetic product can easily get over complicated with overlapping raw materials providing identical Cosmetic benefits, numerous preservatives, and other marketing claims ingredients. In my mind, if you can’t connect an ingredient clearly to a promised Cosmetic claim, the ingredient can arguably become superfluous. For example, I once had a person call me who crowed they had scoured google and “cracked the code” for the perfect anti-aging product. He submitted to us about 35 overlapping actives and percentages. Unfortunately, he had no aqueous phase, no preservative, and the Formula percentages he wanted added up to 137%. He pared that down so we would at least have some room for other constituents such as water, preservatives, etc. We made a stable product (overly complicated), it was invoiced out by at least 3 manufacturers reflecting the material costs and it never reached the Market by the client as it was simply overly complicated.I am very cognizant of costs as they put a great deal of emphasis on these numbers in a manufacturing setting. At one facility I worked at we did a great deal of Walmart, Walgreens, and other commercial lines. Inevitably on a Friday, I would have to sit through a meeting that concentrated on “how can we get our costs down by 3 cents an ounce as the buyer wants?”Whatever you put in, you have to pay for. At some point, you will need to take Business Practices into account as well.
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Be happy with your subjective evaluation and consider perhaps smaller yet informal testing with several testers. It would give you more subjective input. Drop objective claims (24-hour hold) unless you substantiate these measurable claims.Not substantiating these claims could put you in the bad graces of the FTC, but more imminently if you do not deliver these metrics, your clients may not repurchase.
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I am a minimalist. I like to use functional ingredients and see the results. This has helped my clients of late due to rising raw material costs. However, I have had Formulas rejected (more so in a Commercial Setting, by the Marketing Department) for “the ingredient list is too short”, so you do need to leave some room for these additions.I do cringe though when I see these overly complicated Formulas. They aren’t realistic to produce on any scale even if they are stable.
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All Cosmetic ingredients are considered safe. That is a marketing misnomer.
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I don’t hand stir. It is ineffective and not the preferred technique.
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To start, your Formula is far too busy and has overlapping actives as well as multiple preservatives. You would boost your preservative system through other means. Throw away the Leucidal, it is useless. What are your total suspended solids? You may need a solubilizer to incorporate the oils as well, As far as “natural” and other marketing bs, don’t sacrifice on performance. They don’t make shampoo trees.I see upwards of 3.5% powders being added in Phase D. How are you suspending these powders?
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Aw can NOT be calculated accurately. It must be measured.“However, it is practically impossible to calculate water activity,
therefore it is far better to measure it by instrumentation. The foods
industry has used water activity for many years to determine the need
for preservatives.There
are several ways to measure water activity including vapor pressure
manometry, electric hygrometry, hair hygrometry, and dew point. The
Association of Official Analytical Chemists (AOAC) has officially
recognized the dew-point/chilled mirror method.”That is an article from David Steinberg, a well-known Cosmetic author, and renowned expert.
Aw (water activity) is vastly different than the percentage of water in the Formula (a common mistake). It is affected by numerous other factors. -
How will you be measuring Aw?
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@grapefruit22 Yes, that is a great price, especially with a credible lab and the stability report. You may find that your clients will like the fact that the test was sent off for “third-party stability validation.”
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@Beanpod While this is directed at creating Ski Waxes vice Surfboard waxes, you will definitely find this article from Koster Keunen helpful; https://www.kosterkeunen.com/ski-wax-creating-a-stick-for-glide/
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You may want to research the likelihood of glycerin causing yeast infections. That has been disproven by many outlets. You have to look at the breakdown that would be required to make glycerin a food source. While yes, putting sugar on your vagina can cause a yeast infection,
putting glycerin there does not, because, again, glycerin is not a
sugar.