MarkBroussard
Forum Replies Created
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You might also consider Sclerotium Gum … forms a gel, but is not sticky like Xanthan or guar. I use it in a couple of cleansers using surfactants very similar to what you are using. Plus, you can add up to 5% oils (or fragrance oils) with Sclerotium.
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This is a fun get to know you post! Nice touch, Perry!
Similar story … always loved science and ever since I was a child I was experimenting with biology and chemistry. Got an undergraduate degree in Biology/Microbiology with an emphasis in Immunology and then went on to get a Masters in Organic Chemistry (synthetic organic). Once completed, I did not want to work as a chemist as I had a close call with a lab accident and transitioned over to get an MBA. Worked in Corporate Development and Venture Capital with an emphasis on healthcare, biotechnology and environmental industries.Opened a day spa and began working on adults who suffered from acne using lasers, LED lights and various topical treatments. This piqued my curiosity about the “state of the art” in topical acne treatments. In conducting reseach, I came across many clinical studies wherein natural plant extracts were showing great results in the treatment of acne and I noted that there weren’t any products on the market that combined these ingredients. I began tinkering with formulations and am about to launch a line of acne OTC topicals and therapeutic cosmetics with a total of 12 products (and 4 more in development).Cosmetic chemistry is the field that brings together all of my various technical training. What I really, really love about it is the creativity … and, nothing explodes! -
LOL! Well, that’s a bit less of a marketing challenge than the guy who posted on here about using Camel Urine in shampoo!
Which got me thinking … I am now launching a new natural ingredient … Marpissic Acid and Sodium Marpissate. -
I second Dissolvine GL (Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate). Readily biodegradable and when combined with citric acid really boosts the performance of preservatives.
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Thanks BobZ! No particular location prefernce, exception being a preference for southern US (anywhere from Florida to California) … Lived in Chicago for too many years, so anywhere that it snows is out of the question! I’m currently in Houston, Texas but very mobile.
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Yes, but note that they use a “coconut emulsifier” … So, you’re on the right track with glyceryl cocoate
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Your face would not be able to tolerate those essential oils at much above a fraction of a percent total. I’m sure they added just enough to get the fragrance.
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Since orange and grapefruit peel oils can be quite irritating to the skin, BobZ is point on in his assessment. They probably use a high weight hyaluronic acid as a thickener to bind it all together. This looks like a Rhonda Allison formulation?
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is this the LOI in the order the ingredients appear on the product label?
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LOL! It lends new meaning to the term “golden shower”! Hey! Urine is sterile!
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On occassion, I pee in my formulations when my stock of urea is running low.
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Yes, first heating ensures complete solubilization of your chelating agent and components in the Aloe Vera Powder. Second, as Belassi pointed out, unless you are certain that your Aloe Vera Powder has been irradiated, it is probably chock full of microbes, so this is a solubilization and sterilization step.
Sodium Lactate because as the sodium salt of lactic acid it is an excellent moisturizer. TEA does not really provide any skin benefit and you have the perception of the nitrosamines issue. So, I prefer to use a multifunctional ingredients as opposed to a single purpose ingredient with a marketing concern. -
@yq1:
(1) With Aloe Vera Powder (200X), you only need to add 0.5% to effectively have Aloe Vera Juice equivalent.(2) Since Aloe Vera Powder is a real stew of electrolytes and individual components, first add your chelating agent (0.3% should be fine) to water and mix thoroughly. Heat the water up to 77C and add the Aloe Vera Powder and Propylene Glycol and hold the temperature for 20 minutes.(3) Cool down to 30C and check the pH.(4) Sprinkle the carbomer onto the water while stirring and allow the carbomer to hydrate for 30 minutes or so. If you’re using the Sodium Carbomer, mind the recommended use amount … adding more can just cause problems … (More is not necessarily better when you’re formulating)(5) Add the Liquid Germall.(6) If you are using a carbomer other than the pre-neturalized Sodium Carbomer, slowly add the TEA (personally, I prefer using Sodium Lactate as opposed to TEA, but just my preference) while stirring and monitoring the pH until you hit the right pH for the carbomer to gel.No, there is no way to definitively know if the EDTA helps solve the problem until time has passed that I am aware of. -
@BobZ:
I was thinking the same thing. Try adding a chelating agent, particularly if you are using a powder aloe concentrate.I also noted that the OP claimed that TEA was needed to raise the pH, but didn’t take a pH measurement. So, just how is it that you knew when to stop adding TEA? Does not make sense. -
@yq1:
It would appear that you did not follow the use directions on the Sodium Carbomer which is pre-hydrated and does not need to be neutralized and is recommended for use at 0.2%. So, you added TEA which really jacked up the pH of your formulation when it was not necessary and since you did not measure pH, you have no idea about basic parameters of your concoction.Throw it away and start over following use directions and measure relevant parameters. -
Looks like your Preservative components are crystallizing.
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@ Bill_Toge:
Not only that, Schulke will perform 6 week KOKO challenge tests, free of charge, for any formulation you mail to Germany that contains at least one Schulke ingredient! All you need to pay is the postage to mail your sample to Schulke. -
Yes Belassi:
Dissolve 1 Part Tea Tree Oil in 19 Parts 1,3-Propanediol. -
If you want to formulate using “Natural” … familiarize yourself with ECOCert. The quick answer to your questions is … “Yes” … Sodium Benzoate and Potassium Sorbate are ECOCert approved ingredients.For a review of ECOCert approved preservatives, read http://www.makingskincare.com/preservatives/ … go down to the very bottom where she has a list of ECOCert approved preservatives. FYI, the entire post is well worth reading.There are more that are not on the list as this is an area ripe with new product development, but it’s a great start.
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Great story. I did note that Paula Beroun, the founder of Paula’s Choice, was very critical of Creme de la mer, but also noticed that her company is one of the above out in the market with a Skinceuticals CE Ferulic knock-off.
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That “debacle” is the result of very effective marketing. Pray you could do the same for your own fomulations.What I find interesting, is I don’t recall any other product in recent memory that so many people have tried to knock-off and work around the patent.I guess when you price a product at $150 and ounce, as Skinceuticals does, it invites lots of competition due to the enormous profit margins.
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Interesting. Here are some products currently on the market:Skinceuticals:
Water, Ethoxydiglycol, L Ascorbic Acid, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Laureth 23, Alpha Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, Triethanolamine, Ferulic Acid, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate
Cosmetic Skin Solutions:Water/Aqua/Eau, L-Ascorbic Acid (Topical Vitamin C), Propylene Glycol, Ethoxydiglycol, Butylene Glycol, Laureth-23, Zinc Sulfate, Glycerol, Alpha Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Triethanolamine, Ferulic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, D-Panthenol, Hyaluronic Acid.
Paula’s Choice:Water, Ascorbic Acid, Ethoxydiglycol, PPG-26 Buteth-26, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Tocopherol, Ferulic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Glycerin, Panthenol, Sodium Metabisulfite, Triethanolamine, Phenoxyethanol.Timeless Skin Care:Water, Ethoxydiglycol, L-Ascorbic Acid, Propylene Glycol, Alpha Tocopherol, Polysorbate 80, Panthenol, Ferulic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Benzylalcohol, Dehydroacetic Acid, Fragrance.Mad Hippie:Water Deionized, Vitamin C (Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate), Alkyl Benzoate, Vegetable Glycerin, Water, Glycerin, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Anisate, Clary Sage (Salvia Sclarea), Grapefruit (Citrus Grandis), Hyaluronic acid, Amorphophallus Konjac Root Powder, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf, Vitamin E (Tocotrienol), Ferulic acid, Chamomile Flower Extract (Recutita Matricaria), Sodium Phytate, Xanthum Gum, Hydroxyethylcellulose -
@microformulatio
Curious, were they using Ascorbic Acid or another Vitamin C derivative? Wondering just how different their formulas were from the patented formulation.