Forum Replies Created

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  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    January 3, 2023 at 2:57 pm in reply to: Innovation

    Innovation is cosmetic products is extraordinarily difficult to achieve and unless you have some unique, proprietary ingredient and/or combination of ingredients upon which you have patent protection is virtually impossible to achieve. 

    One of the few true cosmetic innovations I can think of is Vitamin C … Skinceuticals CE Ferulic combination, Ron Robinson’s Vitamin C silicon solution and the combination of L-Ascorbic Acid in Propanediol + Urea … all patented.

    Make the best product you possibly can supported by effective marketing.  The company KopariBeauty has products that I’m sure work good enough, there is nothing innovative about them, but they are supported by effective marketing and appropriate pricing and that is the key to their success.

    If you want to be innovative in the cosmetics industry, the “next big thing” opportunities are going to be in vessicles to help cosmetic “active” ingredients to better penetrate the SC.

  • @kajalthakur:

    Simply don’t add it.  You’re creating a problem for yourself with no added benefit.  Like I said, you are simply adding 98% water or water/glycerin to end with with 0.002% extract in your product.  The extract won’t do anything, so find a different oil-solulble marketing ingredient.

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 31, 2022 at 2:21 pm in reply to: Popular but under-preserved product?

    Yes, this is most likely Ajinomoto GCK 12H which is the only suppliers listed with an INCI that includes potassium cocoate and is made from Coconut Fatty Acids.  Yes, it is a liquid, not a paste.

    The high Glycerin may be in part related to preservation, but may also be a regional market consumer preference.  I have found that formulation for Asian clients can be very different than formulating for US/EU clients … a different esthetic is preferred in products for the Asian market.

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 30, 2022 at 3:06 pm in reply to: Popular but under-preserved product?

    @Chemicalmatt:

    I can only envision you sitting there with clenched fists doing your best Charles Barkley impression … “makes me hangry!”

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 30, 2022 at 10:58 am in reply to: healing cream

    @Squinny:

    My pleasure.  You can also use it as a kick-ass facial serum … don’t necessarily need to apply it on a wound.

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 30, 2022 at 10:52 am in reply to: Practical use of the HBL scale

    @Madonherbs

    The HLB system is no more accurate, nor as good a predictor, as just starting off with 2% Glyceryl Stearate + 4% Olivem 1000.  The system was developed for PEG-emulsifiers and does not really apply to other non-PEG emulsifiers.

    Remember the old adage:  GIGO (Garbage In = Garbage Out) … that’s the HLB system.  However, you can use the list of HLB of various emulsifiers as a guide of sorts, but don’t bother trying to calculate anything.

    More important is to understand the type of emulsifier you are using:  O/W, W/O, Lamellar, etc. and what it best pairs with as a co-emulsifier.

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 30, 2022 at 10:46 am in reply to: Silly question from a DIYer: baking soda vs NaOH

    @toketsu

    Baking Soda in water will form Carbonic Acid that in water will revert to Carbon Dioxide and Water … hence all the gas produced when using Sodium Bicarbonate.  You don’t have that issue with Sodium Hydroxide.

    But, if this is DIY for your personal use, Baking Soda is fine.  But, you would not want to use it in a product for commerce. 

    It looks like you already knew the answer, but weren’t completely certain.  

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 30, 2022 at 12:02 am in reply to: Popular but under-preserved product?

    @zetein:

    Thanks … I see, it is made from Glycine and Coconut Fatty Acids

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 29, 2022 at 11:01 pm in reply to: Popular but under-preserved product?

    @GeorgeBenson

    The reason they did not drop the pH is the formula includes Potassium Cocoate.  If the pH gets too low, the Potassium Cocoate will revert to Coconut Oil … I’m surprised its not happening at pH 7.1.  The inclusion of a saponified oil surfacant is also an unusual feature of this product.

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 29, 2022 at 3:04 am in reply to: healing cream

    @Squinny:

    You are fine on the GHK-Cu and 100 kDa HA.  You’re not going to get much thickening from the 100 kDa HA.  You can use the 4D HA for that purpose.  Try starting the 4D HA at 0.5% to see if you get enough viscosity build.  If not, add a bit more in 0.2% increments.  If your 4D HA is viscous enough, you won’t need an additional thickener such as Xanthan or HEC.

    Don’t bother with the Allantoin or Calendula … they really won’t do anything.

    The HA will bind with Fibrinogen to help form the fibrin clot and the GHK-Cu acts as a signal molecule to stimulate an immune response.

    Yes, PlantaserveE at 0.7% would be fine.  You could complement with 0.3% Sodium Benzoate should do the trick.

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 28, 2022 at 5:22 pm in reply to: What makes this formula so moisturizing?

    If you break the formula down to the functional core:

    Water, Glycerin, Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate, Coco-Betaine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Potassium Cocoate, Lauramidopropyl Betaine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer …

    Most all the other ingredients are likely include below 1%.  Glycerin is included at a higher percentage than any of the surfactants (individually) which is quite unusual in a cleanser.  

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 27, 2022 at 2:40 pm in reply to: Vitamin E

    @chemicalmatt

    “Jack-Zero” … trademark that term!

  • @kajalthakur

    Why go through all the trouble of trying to introduce an ingredient at 1% that is completely incompatible with the base of your formula?  Try to find that extract in an oil base or delete it from your formula.  If it is a water-soluble extract that 1% would equate to 98% water and 2% extract … so when you factor it into the full formula the amount of extract you have will be 0.002% which is virtually nothing.

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 24, 2022 at 5:36 pm in reply to: Formulating a cleansing oil for the very first time

    @Ghita37

    Correct … survey what products are on the shelves of supermarkets, pharmacies and beauty retailers in your local market and ask the store management what are the top selling cleansing products to benchmark your competition.  Note the ingredients they use and the price points.  Do this for both facial cleansers and makeup removers.  Determine if you think you can develop a competitive product at similar price points or if you want to try to develop a superior, premium product at a more “luxury” price point.  See if there are any Cleansing Oils on the shelves.

    What I mean is you can offer a Cleansing Oil + Water-Based Cleanser as a combo-packaged product comprising a cleansing system targeted at women.

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 24, 2022 at 4:36 pm in reply to: Formulating a cleansing oil for the very first time

    @Ghita37

    Cleansing Oils are often used as a component of a two-step cleansing process.  Cleansing Oil is applied first to remove makeup followed by a second cleaning using a more traditional water-based cleanser.

    Cleansing Oils may not be popular in your target geographic market simply because they are not widely available and your local population has been conditioned to use only water-based cleansers.  In Asian markets, particularly Japan and Korea, Cleansing Oils are very popular.

    You face different market and competitive challenges with each.  With a Cleansing Oil you are introducing a new product format.  With a traditional cleanser you face established competition and have to convince consumers to switch to your product/brand.

    If you have the capital, you might consider introducing a Cleansing Systems comprised of two products.

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 23, 2022 at 11:19 pm in reply to: Formulating a cleansing oil for the very first time

    @Ghita37

    If I may offer you this final bit of advice:

    (1)  Cleansing Oils are a proven product category.  The issue is more will a cleansing oil be attractive in your target geographic market

    (2)  Follow the KISS principle (Keep It Simple, Stupid) in your product development

    (3)  Cleansing Oils are designed to cleanse.  Most all ingredients you put in your formula will rinse off and won’t really have any effect other than the oils and surfactant.  Everything else simply goes down the drain

    (4)  You will get the most valuable information from making a batch of product and have consumer panels test it and give you feedback

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 21, 2022 at 9:44 pm in reply to: Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act 2022

    @Perry

    Yes, you are probably right.  Democrats in both houses have certainly made efforts to reform the cosmetics regulations

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 21, 2022 at 8:39 pm in reply to: Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act 2022

    @chemicalmatt

    Yes, the language has the typical clunkiness of government regulations

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 21, 2022 at 8:37 pm in reply to: Vegan alternative to beeswax

    @chemicalmatt

    Wait! … I’m working on the Trademark

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 21, 2022 at 8:11 pm in reply to: Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act 2022

    Has this bill been voted on and passed Senate and House?

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 21, 2022 at 6:25 pm in reply to: Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act 2022

    @Perry:

    It looks like Adequate Substantiation Of Safety is the equivalent of the EU Safety Assessment and small businesses would not be exempt from this.

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 21, 2022 at 4:28 pm in reply to: Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act 2022

    @PhilGeis

    Thanks for posting this Phil.  Looks like Patty Murray is following up where Sean Patrick Maloney left off.

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 21, 2022 at 10:50 am in reply to: Vegan alternative to beeswax

    Oh, the irony of a Vegan Mattel Liquid Lipstick.  Thank goodness I am able to purchase Vegan petrofuel for my automobile.

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 20, 2022 at 6:01 pm in reply to: Emulsifiers for thin/sprayable emulsion

    @JonahRay

    Sucrose Stearate

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 20, 2022 at 12:00 pm in reply to: Vegan alternative to beeswax

    @akrep:

    IMHO … No, nothing is as good as beeswax.  Why don’t you call your product “Beegan” … the bees are not harmed in any way and they are going to produce the wax under any circumsatances and the wax will be scraped off the hive to collect the honey. 

    Vegan can be a fairly ridiculous term/qualifier … consider that you are tying to make a “vegan” lipstick, but all of the other ingredients that you are including in your lipsticks are synthetic.

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