MarkBroussard
Forum Replies Created
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It’s a dispersing agent that reduces the viscosity of the ZnO (or TiO2) powder blend in solvent allowing you to get a higher load of powder in the solvent with more even dispersion of the powder.
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In the US, all sunscreen products are regulated as OTC drug products. So, at present, regardless of whether it is SPF 15 or SPF 80, both are regulated the same.
Per the proposed new monograph, all sunscreens SPF 80 and below would be regulated as OTC drug products. But, sunscreens SPF 80+ would be regulated as drugs and would require a New Drug Application.
Keep in mind that Hawaii and other jurisdictions have recently passed bans on Oxybenzone and Octinoxate as sunscreen ingredients, so you will not want to include those in any new sunscreen formula.
Given that it is highly likely that the new monograph will go into effect, you might want to target something in the SPF 60 to 80 range as opposed to going up to SPF 100.
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UVA protection is a much bigger problem than UVB protection from a skin damage perspective which is why it’s now a focal point of the FDA.
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It could well be that the Zinc Oxide was not evenly dispersed in your sample. The SPF measurement is how much longer it takes the skin to burn with the sunblock applied versus no sunblock. If ZnO is not evenly dispersed in your sample, parts of the skin will essentially have no coverage and the testers will detect irritation early in the testing cycle, hence the low SPF rating even though you have ZnO in the formula.
Did you use a premixed blend or are you charging ZnO powder to your formulation … if you are adding a powder, are you adding a dispersant such as polyhydroxystearic acid?
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https://www.sunscreensimulator.basf.com/Sunscreen_Simulator/login
Load up all of the appropriate sunscreen actives at the maximum percentage allowed by the FDA. Neutrogena markets a 100 SPF-rated sunscreen so you can check its LOI
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Why not just use premade Sodium Stearate? … so much easier that using Stearic Acid + NaOH and it’s inexpensive.
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Have you perhaps left a key ingredient out of your list? … I don’t see a gellant. I’m assuming you’re using Sodium Stearate?
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You could try Isopropyl Myristate or Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides. IPM would probably be the first choice. Octyldodecanol might also work.
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I suspect the same … the different acids may have different modes of action and one alone is insufficient to stop microbial growth … and/or one acid might function as a baceriocide and the other as a fungicide.
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Sounds like you may be allergic to one of the ingredients. Do a knock-out experiment with the Coco Glucoside, SCC and Leucidal to see if you can figure out which ingredient is causing the problem. If that does not work, then it may be a combination of ingredients.
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Contact dermatitis from coconut oil is rare … no matter what you put in a product, someone, somewhere my react to it … you cannot prevent that. Cocoa butter is certainly an ingredient you can include.
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Ask yourself this simple question: What additional benefit do you gain from adding two additional ingredients to your formula, if you are referring to the suggestion that you add arrowroot powder and kaolin clay to your concoction … oh, and, yes, let’s also add a water-soluble preservative to an anhydrous formulation instead of an oil-soluble preservative … great advice!
I think you’ll find that the answer is: Nothing but a more complicated formula.
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There you go … Leaping Bunny is an easy certification to get.
It varies … I have had clients launch 10 to 16 products near simulatenously and other who develop the products in sequence. It all depends on your target market … if it’s Acne, for instance, best you launch a 3 to 4 product suite simulatneously because that is what those consumers need.
For a baby line you could go at it either way. There are successful launches of just one product … Boudreaux’s Butt Paste and Anti-Monkey Butt Powder come to mind and others that are a line of products.
If you are a new entrepreneur, I would recommend starting off marketing one product while you are working on formulating your other products and rolling them out is a logical sequence.
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There is nothing to be embarrassed about … better to ask the question in advance than take a risk … that’s how accidents happen.
I just had an image in my mind of someone wearing steel toe workboots and safety glasses to melt shea butter. You probably do want to consider wearing a mask to cover your mouth and nose when you’re working with the Zinc Oxide as you will invariably breathe in some powder if you don’t.
In the US there’s the Natural Products Association NPA seal … I’m not absolutely convinced that these certifications necessarily register with consumers. I think they pay more attention to your list of ingredients in making a purchase decision, but I could be wrong.
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LOL! … Closed toed shoes and goggles? … Thanks for the laugh @PetalPoppet2309!
… Just wear the gloves … you’re not working with anything caustic so the only precautions you need be concerned about are sterility. After all, your product is designed to put on babies’ butts.
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The physical state of the emulsifier and the oil/butters/wax phase really don’t have anything to do with one another. The important thing is for the HLB of the emulsifiers to match the HLB of the oils/butters/waxes.
I would suggest that you read up on the HLB system and learn how to calculate the HLB of your combined components.
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That’s only an issue if you are using parabens as your preservative.
The broader issue is that Lecithin, as an emulsifier, simply yields inferior product sensorial attributes, unstable emulsions, is difficult to work with and is difficult to preserve as it is an excellent source of nutrients for the growth of mold. There are many, many much better options for emulsifiers.
If you have an ingredient that you like that contains lecithin as one component well, by all means, use it. I use Siligel in some formulations, for instance. But, i always notice the formula containing Siligel will contaminate versus the same exact formula using Xanthan Gum and I have to take extra precautions on the preservation.
I never use parabens, so I really can’t provide any insight into that question. I much prefer to use phenethyl alcohol or honeysuckle extracts, both of which are natural, but have chemical structures similar to parabens and I have found to be effective preservatives.
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You can formulate Retinol without BHT, it’s just that you won’t have much retinol in the formula over a relatively short period of time.
The absolute best combination is BHA, BHT, Tocopherol, Sodium Ascorbate and using Liposomal Retinol.
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I think if you get it down to 3-4% at the lowest, you should be fine … the additional stabilizers for Olivem emulsions are Xanthan Gum and glyceryl stearate. Siligel is essentially a direct replacement for Xanthan Gum. So, you could use a combination of Olivem 1000 (4%), Glyceryl Stearate (2%), Siligel (0.5%), Stearic Acid (2%) and you’ll probably wind up with a nice cream with minimal soaping. If you’re still getting soaping, then cut down on your total oils/butters content.
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Olivem 1000 is best paired with Glyceryl Stearate + Xanthan Gum + Thickener.
You should be fine with Olivem 1000 @ 4% … lowering the amount of Olivem 1000 should help with your soaping issue. If you want to use Stearic Acid instead of Glyceryl Stearate, that would probably work just fine and allow you to reduce your Cetearyl Alcohol, which at 6% should be more in the 2% range.
Siligel would allow you to eliminate Lecithin from your formula, except for the tiny amount contained within the Siligel.
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No preservatives needed
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It’s more than that … BHT is scientifically-proven to be the most effective stabilizer for Retinol, simple fact … I’m currently doing some work with a university professor who is an expert in Retinol …
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It’s very simple … mix approximately 85% butters with 15% oils (carrier oils + essential oils if you want a scent). Include 0.5% tocopherol or rosemary extract as an antioxidant) … melt the mixture.
Once the cooling mixture starts to solidify … whisk it on high speed using an electric kitchen mixer. Add 3% Tapioca Starch if you want to keep a stiff whipped texture. The tapioca starch will also help reduce the oils feel of the concoction.
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BHT because it is the most effective at stabilizing Retinol.
Tocopherol, ascorbyl palmitate, rosemary extract to prevent rancidity, but BHT for the Retinol. The Rovisome Retinol is essentially liposomal encapsulated Retionol, so that will add some measure of stability, but best to also add BHT.
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Actually, squirtable is a better description. Does not spray in a mist, but squirts. Still, that’s pushing it through a spray mister. Standard ZnO.