MarkBroussard
Forum Replies Created
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So, you have now confirmed that the grittiness is from the Shea Butter. Shea often tends to become gritty if allowed to cool to room temperature, but the grittiness will be reduced if it is cooled rapidly.
You’ll have to play around with your butters to oils ratio go get a good compromise between skin sensorial and dispenser. You might want to make batches in series increasing the Cocoa Butter by 5% and reducing the oil of your choice by the same amount starting with the Sunflower Oil
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Understood. The interpretation of that graph is simply incorrect, as you now know. Good idea to be critical in looking at something someone has stated as gospel especially since anyone can post anything at any time on the internet regardless of whether or not they know what they are talking about.
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The grittiness could be Zinc Oxide or Shea Butter or both. If you add some Polyhydroxystearic Acid (0.8%) to better disperse the Zinc Oxide.
Yes, you can put beakers on an electric stove top to heat up your mixture
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It sounds like you’re making a mistake in using a handmixer … all you really need is a stirrer. I suspect what you are seeing is that you are introducing lots of air into the concoction with the handmixer and when you pour into the pots the air is bubbling up to the surface forming what looks to be a second layer.
Put all of your oils & butters into a beaker … heat to 80C to 85C so all ingredients are melted and you have a homogeneous liquid. Stir the hot liquid @ 300 RPM and add-in the Acai Sterols and continue stirring until the Acai Sterols are dissolved. Once the Acai Sterols are dissolved, sift-in the Zinc Oxide while stirring @300 RPM and continue stirring until you are ready to pour into pots.
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The CIR recommendations for Peppermint Oil are < 3% in rinse-off products and <0.2% in leave-on products. The real issue with Peppermint Oil is the Pulegone content which should be <1%. If you look around, you can purchase Pulegone-free Peppermint Oil. These are guidelines, not absolutes
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@jyy:
The question is: Why do you feel the need and/or want to add your preservative to the hot water phase? If you don’t have a compelling or necessary reason, then why take an unnecessary risk?
Most preservatives are going to be heat stable and can tolerate 70C, but not all. You would have to check on the heat stability of the specific preservative you are using.
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Yes, I have seen this Vitamin E pro-oxidant at above 2.0% (actually, the value 0.2% was used on many occasions) comment many times in various threads … and it is simply not supported by any scientific evidence.
But, when I looked at the the graph being used as the evidence, it said no such thing. It turns out that the proponent simply did not know how to read a graph and was misinterpreting it, and wildly incorrectly at that.
Same thing with this video, it says absolutely nothing about vitamin E being a pro-oxidant at any level. What it does say is that some people have skin sensitivity to Vitamin E at levels above 2%, but that does not necessarily have anything to do with it becoming a pro-oxidant, but due to an allergic reaction.
The other factor is that Vitamin E is a very dark brown color and when loaded into a formula at 2%, that alone will cause some discoloration of the sample at T0 at room temperature when compared to a sample with Vitamin E loaded at 0.5%.
Looking at two different samples with the naked eye proves absolutely nothing other than one sample appears to be darker than the other and that could be simply a function of the fact that a cream with Vitamin E mixed tocopherols loaded at 2% will be naturally darker in color than a cream loaded with mixed tocopherols at 0.5%.
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Poly Suga Mulse D9 as solubilizer. But, my first recommendation would be to not use Jojoba Oil. Instead, if you really, really want to add an oil, perhaps Rose Hip Oil at 1%.
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Try pouring at 55C
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Yes, that is correct … it is harder to preserve products when you use Siligel as opposed to straight Xanthan Gum … I try to avoid using anything with Lecithin in it. And, if I do have a multicomponent ingredient with one being Lecithin, I know immediately that I’m going to have to use Phenethyl Alcohol in the preservation system.
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There are plenty of other options that are both palm oil-free and don’t irritate your skin. And, are you certain that any of the ingredients in the Caprylhydroxamic GG mix are indeed derived from palm-oil? Perhaps that’s not the case.
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You might want to rethink Microcare … Benzyl Alcohol is an irritant so I never use it. If you are trying to stay all natural, you might consider Caprylhydroxamic GG available from Making Cosmetics.
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Just use Xanthan Gum instead of Soy Lecithin as your stabilizer … Lecithin is extremely difficult to preserve.
No, you do not need Lecithin in your formula. You can use 0.6% Naticide to compliment you Microcare.
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Eliminate the Soy Lecithin from your formula … that is probably what is causing the microbial contamination which is most certainly yeast/mold. That will help considerably. Adding the preservative hot or cold will not make any difference whatsoever.
If eliminating the Soy Lecithin alone is not sufficient, you will have to add a fungicide to bolster the preservation … Phenethyl Alcohol or Naticide should work well in this formula. It would also help if you added a chelating agent … Dissolvine GL47S would help boost your preservation.
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Yes, you want to pour just above the set point … somewhere in the 45C to 50C range should work.
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If you want to keep that high level of wax, you might try adding 0.2% Sodium Hydroxide to the water phase prior to emulsification. I don’t know if this will work with Rice Bran Wax, but if you are using Organic Emulsifying Wax (beeswax, lecithin, carnauba wax) this is how you get it to emulsify.
Perhaps you could sub Rice Bran Oil for some of the Rice Bran Wax to enhance your emulsion stability.
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The problem is that you are pouring it too hot. Let the batch cool down some before you pour. It looks as though you are pouring it a maximum temperature.
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Water 83.90
Jojoba oil 3.00
Aloe Vera Extract 3.00
Lime Extract = 1.00
Glycerine = 5.00
Phenoxyethanol = 0.9
Surfactant/Solubilizer
This is going to be a sticky mess with Glycerine loaded in at 5% in a water-based formula. You might want to cut that down to 1% or less. Better yet, use Glycerine at 0.5% and Sodium Lactate at 4% to 5% or Saccharide Isomerate at 2% or so.That’s also a high load of Jojoba Oil that you’ll need to solubilize … you might want to cut that down to 1% and solubilize it with Poly Suga Mulse D9 loaded in at 3% to 5%. Since Jojoba Oil is actually a wax, it will almost definitely form waxy flakes over time suspended in your base, so Jojoba Oil is not a very good choice for this product format.
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Well … that should tell you something.
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If you we definitely going to sign a development contract then the formulator should have been willing to execute an NDA.
However, if there was uncertainty, perhaps that is why you got the refusal. From a formulator’s perspective, I rarely enter into NDA’s with people who do not ultimately become clients. The last thing I want is a multitude of NDA’s in existence with people with whom I never actually did business and who paid me no more consideration than just telling me their idea.
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At most, you going to want to add 1% to 2% total oils … yes, you will need an emulsifier to make this concoction hold together.
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Your formulator should have all of these legal documents for you to execute. If your formulator does not have these documents readily available, that should tell you something.
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I’ve never had any issues with CBD products changing color … but, I only use one source for CBD full spectrum and isolate. The CBD full spectrum obviously varies a little lot-by-lot, but not appreciably.
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Kesterwax K-60P from Koster Keunen is NPA certified polyhydroxystearic acid.
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I suspect that you could indeed use Varisoft EQ65 to make a solid bar conditioner as a direct substitution for BTMS, for instance.