MarkBroussard
Forum Replies Created
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Parabens are a dead issue … it’s been 20 years since the Dabre study and the time to have responded would have been 20 years ago. When was the last new cosmetic product introduction that contained parabens in the last 5 years … I can only think of one.
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You’re missing my point. If you are a manufacturer of parabens, your product line is under attack. it is not a matter of an end user simply using a different preservative. It is a fight for the future of your paraben preservative line. The only way to counter the misperceptions about parabens is to present accurate, scientifically-valid information. But, too late, this controversy is now nearly 20 years old.
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What really surprises me is that no one to my knowledge has tried to replicate Dabre’s study, done properly, to prove that the study is fatally flawed as are the conclusions drawn from it regarding parabens. If it mattered to me, as in … I manufacture parabens, it would be worth the investment instead of just arguing about it on the Internet and losing the battle for minds in the process.
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Yes, the owner of Cosmos is Mary Berry. She was the founder of Texas Beauty Labs (now Goodkind). I have indeed worked with both Cosmos and Precious Cosmetics.
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You might also try Cosmos CM in Austin, Texas
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I have a couple of clients who recently used FMI … FMI kept claiming that their prototypes were failing stability testing. Turns out, in going down the list of ingredients, FMI substituted a surfactant that I have never even heard of before, much less specified in the formula. Also, the formula specifically called for Glyceryl Stearate SE and they were using Glyceryl Stearate. So, I don’t get the impression they are skilled … there’s a reason FMI is short for Fragrance Manufacturing, Inc. I don’t think they have a strong experience base in cosmetics as their core is in Fragrances.
You might try Precious Cosmetics. I’ve had good experience with them.
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What. you are actually making is a Liquid Castille Soap. Your INCI would be Water, Potassium Cocoate. You can mention in your marketing that it is made from Coconut Oil, nothing wrong with that. Check out the marketing language from other manufacturers of Liquid Castille Soaps for guidance.
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There are some liquid crystal emulsifiers that do not require any shear at all. Heat them in the water phase, not the oil phase. The one most accessible to hobbyists is Olivem 1000 … Formulator Sample Shop & Lotioncrafter both carry it.
Simply heat the Olivem 1000 in water with gentle stirring and let it cool down. You can make really nice oil-free emulsions with it.
Won’t work for all formulas, but if all you got is a fork …
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If you switch to Ultrez 30, it will form a gel as low as pH =4.0. So, you don’t have to go up to pH=6.0 as you do with Carbomer. Note the INCI of Ultrez 30 is Carbomer.
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Your best ingredients for this would be Polyhydroxy Acids: Gluconolactone, Mandelic Acid, Lactobionic Acid
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A C02 extract will generally also contain lipids and waxes so it is more dense than an essential oil and the scent is generally deeper and more intense. Many C02 extracts are actually solid at room temperature.
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Olivem 1000 behaves that way sometimes depending on the co-emulsifier and other ingredients. Basically, the emulsion keeps separating until your cool down reaches 50C at which time the emulsion becomes stable.
Also, you’re adding HMW Hyaluronic Acid in Phase A … this will prevent the emulsion from forming. You’re fine with SLMW HA pre-emulsification, but you’ll have to pre-hydrate higher MW HA and add it with stirring when your cool down hits 40C.
Your bigger problem is that Mg AscorbylPhosphate at 4% is going to leave a white powdery film on your skin when applied. Switch to Na AscorbylPhosphate and you will eliminated that problem. Also, you should add the AscorbylPhosphates at 40C or less since they are heat sensitive.
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You might want to add 20% Methylpropanediol or increase your Propanediol to 35% to 40%. A touch of Polysorbate 80 - 1% to 2% would help. Finally, adjust your final pH to 4.0 will also help. As @Graillotion mentioned, you may also try adding Betaine or Sodium Citrate at 1%.
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Why not include a preservative?
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Yes, but realize those plant extracts are just label ingredients and won’t do anything. If you want to add functional actives then consider TECA or Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate
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Nope. When you put this formula together it should have a native pH <5.5. Over a couple of days, the Gluconolactone (functions as a chelator, pH adjuster and PHA) will likely drive the pH down in the range 4.0 - 5.0. There are no oils in the formula, so there really isn’t any benefit from Tocopherol to prevent rancidity. You don’t need a penetration enhancer and your proposed 1% propylene glycol won’t enhance anything.
Think using ingredients that have multifunctional modes of action and you can develop nice, clean, minimalist formulas.
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Here you go:
Water QS
Niacinamide 5
N Acetyl Glucosamine 2
Tranexamic Acid 3
Tetrapeptide-30 2
Allantoin 0.3
Phenoxyethanol/EHG 0.6
Gluconolactone/Sodium Benzoate 1
Glycerin 1
Xanthan Gum 0.2
Sodium Hyaluronate 0.5 (800-1200 kDa)
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There are a variety of techniques that can be used to formulate liposomes. Just Google it and you will find several different recipes. But, you will need the right equipment to do this.
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Anyone can misprepresent what is or is not included in a cosmetic product by not listing ingredients that are actually in a product … that applies to any and all cosmetic products if the manufacturer is not ethical. Licorice Root Extract is a label ingredient, it’s not going to do anything under any circumstances.
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These two formulas contain exactly the same ingredients, in the exact same percentages, with one exception - One contains parabens that are prohibited in all Clean Beauty standards. That’s Clean Beauty most simply defined … you cannot include any ingredients that are on the various prohibited lists:
Clean Beauty Compliant
Water, Niacinamide, Pentylene Glycol, Glycine Betaine (Beta Vulgaris) Beet Sugar Extract, Saccharide Isomerate, Zinc PCA, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, Centella Asiatica (Gotu Kola) Extract, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Extract, Citric Acid, Gluconolactone, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Ethylhexylglycerin
Not Clean Beauty Compliant
Water, Niacinamide, Pentylene Glycol, Glycine Betaine (Beta Vulgaris) Beet Sugar Extract, Saccharide Isomerate, Zinc PCA, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, Centella Asiatica (Gotu Kola) Extract, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Extract, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben
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If you are trying to register your products in the EU, the Safety Assessment Report must be done by a certified EU Safety Assessor. If you are not a certified EU Safety Assessor, then your self-written report would not be accepted. If you are interested in becoming a certified EU Safety Assessor, there is a course offered in Brussels that runs about 5 days in person or you can take the online version that may take a few weeks to complete.
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The Clean and The Unclean … sounds like a Clint Eastwood movie!
No, just “prohibited” ingredients
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It’s only the parabens, Phil. All the other ingredients are allowed in Clean Beauty compliant formulas
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Yes, Phenoxy is allowed in Clean Beauty standards up to 1%
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LOL! … good ones, Phil. Oh, really useful study you posted about Challenge Testing as a predictor of contamination in use.