

MarkBroussard
Forum Replies Created
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MarkBroussard
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 20, 2020 at 6:40 pm in reply to: Oil Phase Cooling Too Fast!If you heat your Water Phase and Oil Phase at the same time and immediately before adding the two together you will not have this problem. Sounds like you’re heating up the Oil Phase and then letting it sit for a while before adding it to the Water Phase.
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MarkBroussard
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 19, 2020 at 6:09 pm in reply to: Detailed Vitamin C serum questions@promises:
Why do you not just make a face oil using tetrahexadecyl ascorbate as your form of Vitamin C … it is oil soluble.
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MarkBroussard
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 19, 2020 at 2:52 pm in reply to: ORGANIC SHAMPOO SEPARATINGMy … this is one hot mess. @Rucrasha … try this:
Water, Aloe Vera Leaf Juice, Coconut Water, Castile Soap, Sucrose Cocoate, Xanthan Gum, Fragrance, Preservative.
This is going to have a pH of about 9.0+, so it’s not really a great shampoo for children … will sting the eyes, but you may be able to get an Organic Certification on it.
Organic doesn’t necessarily mean good or better, so don’t confuse Organic certification with a superior product. You can make a much better, tear-free NPA certified shampoo for children.
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MarkBroussard
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 17, 2020 at 8:37 pm in reply to: Cosmetic Product LabelingYou are required to list the INCI name of the ingredient on the label. Often, ingredients will have other components that are processing aids that do not need to be listed on the LOI … just follow the INCI name for the ingredient and you will be in compliance.
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MarkBroussard
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 16, 2020 at 11:35 pm in reply to: Sucrose Stearate Cold Process EmulsionWhen you cold process Sucrose Stearate you’re going to introduce lots of air into the emulsion if you do not first add the Xanthan Gum/Glycerin slurry. So, change your procedure to first add Xanthan/Glycerin to water stirring to hydrate the Xanthan. Then add your oils phase and homogenize.
In your particular formula … you should drop the Coconut Oil to 10% -12% … 20% is quite high imho. You might also try increasing the Xanthan Gum to 0.6% or so. I normally add Glyceryl Oleate as a co-emulsifier for Sucrose Stearate for cold process formulas.
I’m assuming you are first heating the Coconut Oil to melt to liquid or are you using a liquid Coconut Oil … Or, are you perhaps add the semi-solid Coconut Oil without first heating?
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MarkBroussard
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 16, 2020 at 11:19 pm in reply to: Sucrose Stearate Cold Process EmulsionIt has to do with the formation of the packing structures of the liquid crystals … it’s a different organization if you add the LC Emulsifier first to water as opposed to adding the LC Emulsifier first to oil. You get a different skin sensorial.
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MarkBroussard
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 16, 2020 at 8:39 pm in reply to: Sucrose Stearate Cold Process EmulsionYes, you should add liquid crystal emulsifiers, such as Olivem 1000, to the water phase.
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MarkBroussard
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 16, 2020 at 4:03 pm in reply to: How much Aloe to add to a face wash?No, that would not be appropriate. If you have 1.0% 100X or 0.5% 200X Aloe Powder, then it is essentially reconstituted Aloe Vera Juice and you can list it Aloe Juice as your first ingredient. If it is less than those amount, then it is not fully constituted Aloe Juice. Now, if you are trying to get Organic Certification, they will reject reconstituted Aloe Juice as being organic … it has to be the juice itself, not a reconstituted version.
It’s a bit short-sighted, imho, since it is much better for the environment to ship Aloe Powder than bulk Aloe Juice.
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MarkBroussard
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 15, 2020 at 10:23 am in reply to: How much Aloe to add to a face wash?@MLJ:
Not at all … I commonly make surfactants with Aloe Vera Juice instead of water … there is no “too much”. The maximum amount of powder you would want to add is 1% of 100X
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MarkBroussard
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 15, 2020 at 10:19 am in reply to: foam hand sanitiserDihydroxyethyl Cocamine Oxide and Glycereth-17 Cocoate
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MarkBroussard
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 15, 2020 at 12:45 am in reply to: Help with an SPF15 serum formulaYou can use either CCT or C 12-15 Alkyl Benzoate as a carrier for the ZnO
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MarkBroussard
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 14, 2020 at 3:31 pm in reply to: How to heat treat clay?If you have a robust preservation system, you really do not need to “pre-treat” the clay … the preservative will resolve any pre-contamination issues.
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MarkBroussard
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 14, 2020 at 2:51 pm in reply to: Advise on choosing an alternative emulsifier.@blackbird:
You really don’t need a co-emulsifier with Cetearyl Glucoside (and) Cetearyl Alcohol, but if you want to use a second emulsifier, just go with Glyceryl Stearate.
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MarkBroussard
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 14, 2020 at 12:41 pm in reply to: Hand Soap ProblemIs “parfum” in your formula a fragrance or a preservative. If it is a fragrance, that is your most likely culprit causing irritation.
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MarkBroussard
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 14, 2020 at 12:33 pm in reply to: How much Aloe to add to a face wash?If you add 1% of the powder it will reconstitute to Aloe Vera Leaf Juice. There is no “normal” amount … it’s as little or as much as you want.
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MarkBroussard
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 12, 2020 at 3:00 pm in reply to: GRASE sunscreensYes, sunscreens are regulated as OTC drug products in the US. Your product must be registered with the FDA and must be manufactured in an FDA OTC-certified facility.
GRASE means Generally Regarded As Safe & Effective. If ZnO is the only sunscreen active ingredient in your formula, it should be GRASE and an OTC drug product. GRASE is a kind of nebulously defined term, but basically boils down to your product is safe for human use.
No, you cannot sell your product as a cosmetic since it contains an OTC Monograph active ingredient … at 21% ZnO, you are near the maximum allowed concentration of 25% ZnO.
There is not FDA pre-market approval for OTC drug products. You do need to register the product, have it manufactured by an OTC-certified CM and follow the labeling requirements.Yes, you do need to list: Active Ingredient: ZnO 21%
Inactive Ingredients: …
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MarkBroussard
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 12, 2020 at 12:53 pm in reply to: FDA registrationThe maximum allowed use of ZnO in sunscreens in the US is 25% and that should give you an SPF in the range 30 - 50, but it all depends on what else is in your formula.
GRAS means Generally Regarded As Safe & Effective. If ZnO is the only sunscreen active ingredient in your formula, it should be GRASE and an OTC drug product. Unless there is something that is not revealed in your description of your product, you should fall under the FDA Sunscreen Monograph and would not need to file a new drug application.
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MarkBroussard
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 11, 2020 at 12:00 pm in reply to: Help with MaxxThixx PC-10 sanitizerOne option to reduce stickiness is to completely delete Glycerin from your formula … glycerin actually reduces the effectiveness of the sanitizer. If after removing the Glycerin it is still too sticky, then the problem is the MaxxThix.
If you absolutely must use MaxxThix, your only option (besides removing Glycerin) is to reduce the % of MaxxThix or market a sticky hand sanitizer.
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MarkBroussard
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 10, 2020 at 11:16 pm in reply to: Shampoo FormulationWhen you see a product with an LOI like this, you should always be skeptical since it is not labeled in compliance with FDA labeling guidelines.
Now, if it would have said: Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Coconut Cleanser derived from Green Baby Coconuts hand-picked by monks in Thailand and processed by dancing elephants) … that you count on!
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MarkBroussard
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 10, 2020 at 3:27 pm in reply to: Labels displayIt all depends if the product is packaged in a box or not. If it’s in a box, many companies print the required label info on the box ( such as list of ingredients ) because there is insufficient room on the container itself to display all of the required information.
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MarkBroussard
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 10, 2020 at 3:24 pm in reply to: FDA registrationThere are a number of testing labs that can do the requisite SPF, Broad Specturm and Water Resistance testing for you, depending on what you want to claim on your label.
In the US, Sunscreen products must be manufactured in an OTC-certified facility and there is additional testing required to validate manufacturing process and product stability.
All in all, it’s a pretty pricey endeavour, and with an SPF of only 15, is there some other aspects of your product that will entice consumers, because if what you have is yet another moisturizer with SPF 15 …
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MarkBroussard
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 9, 2020 at 2:23 pm in reply to: Foam stabilizer in presence of sebumUse Cocamide MEA if it what you have available. But, your problem is still that you simply do not have a high enough surfactant load … going from 10% to 12% will not change much at all. If your costs bear it, go from 10% to 20%.
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MarkBroussard
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 8, 2020 at 8:02 pm in reply to: Typical Range of pH Values for Most Body Creams and Lotions?Linatural Ultra-3 from Maroon Group: Phenethyl Alcohol, Pentylene Glycol, Propanediol
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MarkBroussard
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 8, 2020 at 11:04 am in reply to: Preservation system in a moisturising face creamPhenoxyethanol + Caprylyl Glycol is another widely available commercial blend.
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MarkBroussard
Professional Chemist / FormulatorJune 8, 2020 at 10:59 am in reply to: Foam stabilizer in presence of sebumTry Cocamide MIPA or Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate. But, the problem would appear to be that your formula is quite light on total surfactants at only 10%.