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  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 6, 2022 at 1:59 am in reply to: What qualifies as an incidental ingredient?

    This information is required for submission for INCI name and the INCI name is determined by a committee of experts:

    The following info is required:

    • Trade Name
    • Suggested Nomenclature
    • Chemical Structure
    • Empirical Formula
    • CAS Number
    • EINECS/EC/ELINCS
    • Chemical Synonyms
    • Composition Statement
    • Manufacturing Method
    • Solvents or Diluents

    Presumably, if a component was merely an incidental processing aid in minute quantities, it would not be included in the INCI name.

    Amazing that a product manufacturer is allowed to exclude certain components in the INCI name of a multi-component ingredient from their product LOI at their determination that the excluded ingredient is an incidental.  Why would “incidentals” be included in the INCI name to begin with?

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 5, 2022 at 9:58 pm in reply to: What qualifies as an incidental ingredient?

    @Graillotion

    I don’t know anything about how Leucidal is manufactured nor what its composition is.  If there is a concern, the FDA could easily inspect their facilities and test the materials/products for composition.  

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 5, 2022 at 8:18 pm in reply to: What qualifies as an incidental ingredient?

    @Graillotion

    I have never personally applied for an INCI, but I have clients who have.  So I am not certain when one applies for an INCI if it is just a paperwork exercise or if you need to present a compositional analysis of your ingredient as manufactured that is backed by appropriate analytical testing to validate the components.

    In the case of someone who adulterates a product, you can simply apply for the INCI and then adulterate the product during manufacturing.  Perhaps trace compounds are considered to be processing aids.

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 5, 2022 at 7:24 pm in reply to: What qualifies as an incidental ingredient?

    @PhilGeis:

    As I understand it, you are required to disclose all of the component ingredients of the INCI of an ingredient.  If not, then how does one who did not develop the multi-component ingredient have the expertise to determine what is or is not an incidential ingredient in multi-component ingredient if the manufacturer listed that ingredient in the INCI?  Let me do some research.  

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 5, 2022 at 2:16 pm in reply to: What qualifies as an incidental ingredient?

    @GeorgeBenson

    It is very simple … if the ingredients are listed in the INCI of the ingredient then you must list them in your formula.  You, as an individual, do not have an option to determine if a component is incidental or not.  The manufacturer of the ingredient will have determined what components are incidental by what is not included in the INCI

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 4, 2022 at 3:14 pm in reply to: Do you have formulating secrets you’ll never share?

    Yes, absolutely.  I never post anything in a public forum that I think will give me a unique competitive advantage.

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 3, 2022 at 4:08 pm in reply to: Formulating a cleansing oil for the very first time

    @Ghita37

    You could even survey students attending an esthetician’s training program for instance.  I’m saying that surveying people online with hypothetical questions is not nearly as productive as feedback from real people who have actually tried your product.

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 3, 2022 at 3:25 pm in reply to: Formulating a cleansing oil for the very first time

    @Ghita37

    I would recommend that you actually make a batch of your cleansing oil and set up in a place where you will find the consumers you are looking to attract and hand out small sample (perhaps 30 mls of product), get their contact information and request that they provide feedback to you.  Perhaps in an esthetician’s studio, for instance.  That will give you real, tangible feedback and an understanding of your clients impression of your product.  All of this stuff on Facebook is not going to really give you any terribly useful information because it is all hypothetical regarding the potential client’s understanding of your product.

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 2, 2022 at 7:30 pm in reply to: How to make emulsions with surfactants?

    @Berry_8

    If it’s a paste, then it should work in adding it to the cream post-emulsification

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 2, 2022 at 2:12 pm in reply to: How to make emulsions with surfactants?

    @Berry_8

    You can purchase SCI that is pre-dissolved.  No, you cannot just put SCI powder directly in your cream … it will not dissolve w/o substantial heat + time.

    Why don’t you use a surfactant that is easier to incorporate such as Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate (paste).

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 1, 2022 at 7:04 pm in reply to: Ferulic acid turns yellow in anhydrous LAA serum

    @DeedeeUkulele

    Ferulic Acid in neat Propanediol readily dissolves at room temperature with stirring and no heat.

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 1, 2022 at 1:57 pm in reply to: Drone Technology in skin care

    Infinitec also touts “drone” delivery technology for peptides that they claim can target specific cell types.  It’s basically encapsulated actives in a shell of PVP and Lactic/Glycolic Copolymer.

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 1, 2022 at 1:25 pm in reply to: Formulating a cleansing oil for the very first time

    @Ghita37

    I haven’t read through all the posts since they are so long … there is elegance in brevity.

    Cleansing Oils are often used as the first cleasnse in a two-part cleansing process with the first application being a cleansing oil followed by a second cleansing with a micellar water.

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    December 1, 2022 at 3:30 am in reply to: Ferulic acid turns yellow in anhydrous LAA serum

    @DeedeeUkulele

    You really don’t need to heat the propanediol to get the Ferulic Acid in solution.  It will dissolve in room temp propanediol with stirring.  Ferulic Acid does have a yellowish tint to it.  Try cutting the ferulic acid down to 0.5%

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    November 29, 2022 at 2:46 pm in reply to: Formulating a cleansing oil for the very first time

    @Ghita37

    Sorry, Vitamin E, not Vitamin C

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    November 29, 2022 at 2:25 pm in reply to: Formulating a cleansing oil for the very first time

    @Ghita37

    Ok, then you have lots of options:  Perhaps Macadamia, Argan, CCT, Rose Oil, Sorbeth 20 Tetraoleate, Vitamin C would be a nice combination.

    See what you can do to acquire Sorbeth 20 Tetraoleate.

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    November 29, 2022 at 1:46 pm in reply to: Aqua SF-1…when to add the cationic guar?

    @GeorgeBenson

    You will probably achieve your best results if you first add your Guar to the water phase before you add any other ingredients.  Check to see if your Guar requires lowering the pH to 4.0 activate it.  If so, add a pH adjuster (citric or lactic acid) and let your Guar hydrate.  Better if your Guar does not need an acidic pH ajustment to hydrate.

    Once the Guar is incorporated, add the Aqua SF-1, then your main anionic surfactant and proceed as usual.  Depending on the surfactant you are using, you may or may not need to adjust the pH to 6.5 with a pH adjuster to activate thickening of the Aqua SF-1.

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    November 29, 2022 at 1:35 pm in reply to: Formulating a cleansing oil for the very first time

    @Ghita37

    Olive Oil:  I recommended that because you are in an Olive Oil producing region and it is easy to source.  I personally find Olive Oil to be quite heavy.  You can use any carrier oils you want … whatever you can more easily access.  If there is another carrier oil that is abundant to Morocco besides Argan?

    Also, you could add a touch of Moroccan Blue Chamomile Oil or Moroccan Neroli Oil … this would utilize some unique ingredients from Morocco and give you some market differentiation.

    Yes, Cucumber Oil and Coffee Oil in small quantities would work.

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    November 28, 2022 at 10:57 pm in reply to: Formulating a cleansing oil for the very first time

    @Ghita37

    Oh, I see … you are located in Morcocco.  In that case you should be able to easily access Argan Oil, Olive Oil … can you get Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides?

    So, your formula could be Olive Oil (42%), Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides (40%), Argan Oil (2%), Tocopherol (0.2%), Sorbeth 30 Tetraoleate (15%), Phenoxyethanol (0.8%) to give you a Moroccan/Mediterranean twist on the theme.

    Add all the component ingredients together while stirring@300RPM to make uniform.  Homogenize@2,500RPM for 2 minutes.

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    November 28, 2022 at 8:46 pm in reply to: Formulating with petrolatum jelly

    @jackleon80s

    Take a look at Aquafor and CeraVe products … you will find both creams and ointments that contain Petrolatum … that should give you some insight.

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    November 28, 2022 at 7:07 pm in reply to: Sephora Sued Over ‘Clean Beauty’ Claims

    @Microformulation

    Thanks, Mark … really appreciate you taking the time and effort to post this information

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    November 28, 2022 at 5:14 pm in reply to: Sephora Sued Over ‘Clean Beauty’ Claims

    @Microformulation

    Mark, I am very curious who were the “experts” cited by the attorneys filing the lawsuit.  Do you have links to their websites?

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    November 28, 2022 at 3:57 pm in reply to: Sephora Sued Over ‘Clean Beauty’ Claims

    @PhilGeis

    Phil, I am one step removed from that process of Sephora qualifying products that it intends to carry in the Clean At Sephora shop.

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    November 28, 2022 at 2:57 pm in reply to: Sephora Sued Over ‘Clean Beauty’ Claims

    Anyone have any actual data on how many products in the Clean At Sephora store have had recalls due to contamination issues?

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    November 28, 2022 at 2:16 pm in reply to: Formulating with petrolatum jelly

    @jackleon80s

    Yes, treat Petrolatum like an oil in an emulsion.  The Petrolatum will function as a barrier film former when the emulsion is applied to the skin.

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