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  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    November 5, 2014 at 9:34 pm in reply to: Raw materials

    You can also contact Private Label Manufacturers in your local area and see if they use the particular ingredient you are looking for as a “stock” item, so to speak.  Since they are often ordering large quantities, they sometimes are willing to sell you product … it’ll be marked up, but you can purchase smaller lot quantities.

    As mentioned earlier, Distributors are sometimes amenable to repackaging for you.
  • Sure, here’s a question for you:

    I am formulating a salicylic acid face wash incorporating essential Citrus Oils … lemon peel oil, orange peel oil and grapefruit peel oil.  I recall reading that these oils could cause some skin irritation unless accompanied by an antioxidant to prevent oxidation of the oils.  They are being used at lower percentages … 0.1% each.  I am mixing the oils in Polysorbate 80 and then adding the mixture directly to the surfactants and the surfactant/essential oil blend is added to the water phase.
    Any recommendations on good antioxidants for these essential oils?  And, at these low levels, is an antioxidant really necessary in your opinion?
  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    November 5, 2014 at 5:14 pm in reply to: Coconut oil & Comodegonic ratings

    Well, Coconut Oil is highly comedogenic and can plug pores and if sufficient P Acnes are beneath the plug it could form a pimple.

    I have a hard time imagining that some styling product in someone’s hair has sufficient contact with the skin on their face to deposit enough residual Coconut Oil to plug a pore.  Now, if they are wearing bangs and the hair is constantly brushing against their forehead, perhaps so.
    But, yes, if this is a common complaint, then Coconut Oil is a likely culprit.  Are any of the other ingredients highly comedogenic?
  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    November 5, 2014 at 12:13 pm in reply to: Coconut oil & Comodegonic ratings

    Yes, Coconut Oil has one of the highest Comedogenicity Ratings.  It will probably not have much of an impact on acneic skin (washoff?) hair products as very few people have acne on the scalp, but it does happen to a small number of people.  If it is a washoff product like a shampoo or a conditioner, I would not worry about it.

  • Hey Perry,

    I tried Polysorbate 80 … no cigar.  I also tried Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate … no cigar.
    I have seen a couple of other LOI where one did use Polysorbate 80 and another used Alkyl Esters, but my efforts with these two have not worked.  Sometimes, you either know the “trick” to incorporating an ingredient and sometimes you don’t.
    See my other post on Alkly Benzoate Formula Challenge … if you have any ideas?
  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    November 4, 2014 at 3:06 pm in reply to: Green tea

    Understood.  If you do want to formulate with Carbomer at lower pH levels, Carbopol Ultrez 30 gels at pH 4.0.

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    November 4, 2014 at 1:12 pm in reply to: Green tea

    One other point … EGCG is generally more stable at lower pH levels.  Instead of adjusting your pH to 6.0, try going in the opposite direction, down to about 4.0.  The optimal pH range for EGCG stability is 4.0 to 6.0 and better at the lower end of the range.  Since the pH of skin is approximately 4.7, this would give your creams a better pH balance for skin.  Finally, at pH 6.0 you’re pushing on the upper boundary on the effectiveness of most preservatives, so you would also benefit on preservation.  Just a thought.

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    November 4, 2014 at 8:43 am in reply to: skin lightening - small areas

    Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Licorice Root Extract, Niacinamide and Daisy Blossom Extract are proven, effective, safe whitening agents.

    There are issues with skin sensitivity to Kojic Acid.  Alpha Arbutin is a hydroquinone precursor, so if you are selling to a European market, may not be a good choice.
  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    November 4, 2014 at 7:49 am in reply to: Green tea

    I’ve been using Teavigo Green Tea Extract (95% EGCG) at 0.1% in a variety of products.  Yes, it is a light pink color!  To prevent (prolong) Green Tea Extract oxidation (it will turn darker brown over time), use 0.5% Citric Acid and 0.5% Hydrolysed Wheat Protein.

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    November 3, 2014 at 10:40 pm in reply to: trouble incorporating geogard sodium benzoate and gluconolactone

    First, add the Gluconolactone/Sodium Benzoate to room temperature water under high shear for about 5 minutes or so … virtually 99.9% of the powder will go into solution and it may be a little bit hazy.  Then heat to 77C and hold for 20 minutes.  That generally works.

    If you’re adding Aloe Vera 200X, first dissolve the Gluconolactone/Sodium Benzoate as described above and then add the Aloe Vera powder as you begin heating up the water.  The end result will be a slightly hazy solution in bulk, but it will appear crystal clear when you bottle it into individual containers.
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