MarkBroussard
Forum Replies Created
-
@nasrins: I do not use parabens nor isothiazolin, so I cannot help you out there. But, Parabens are a perfectly fine preservative to use where appropriate and the negative PR is based on a misinterpretation of a published study … they are safe and effective, but the market perception stigma lingers.
I can tell you that it is well worth your time to learn about preservatives since they are a critical component of any formulation and no matter what formulation you make, you’re going to need a preservative/preservation strategy.In particular, you need to be aware of incompatibilities between preservation systems and certain ingredients … for instance, sodium benzoate should not be used in Vitamin C formulations lest you end up with Benzene in your product, Polysorbates can inactivate Phenoxyethanol.Reference http://www.makingskincare.com … her review of 27 preservatives is invaluable. -
Humans are like tomatoes … we’re 98% water. You have two sources of moisture: water in the body and water in the atmosphere. You do your best to capture or bind the moisture and prevent it from evaporating.
@BobZ: Please elaborate -
In formulating a Moisturizer, you want to included ingredients with moisturizing properties such as hyaluronic acid, sodium lactate, sodium PCA, sorbitol, glycerin and moisturizing oils such as Meadowfoam, Argan and an occlusive or barrier film-former such as Petrolatum, Sclerotium Gum, etc. to reduce TEWL. The theory being that the moisturizing ingredients penetrate the dermis and draw/hold water and the film-former sits on the surface of the skin sealing it all in.
So, I would not think of it from hydrophilic / hydrophobic perspective, but from a function perspective. Yep, in the same emulsion … if you only had hydrophilic moisturizing ingredients, no need to make an emulsion. Same if you only had hydrophobic ingredients, no need to make an emulsion. -
Sodium Benzoate is GRAS by the FDA. Almost anything can be a skin irritant at high enough levels. It all depends on the amount of sodium benzoate and the sensitivity of the person’s skin. Generally, at the levels used in cosmetics, there is not problem.
But, you CANNOT mix Sodium Benzoate with Vitamin C. -
You might also try Witch Hazel Hydrosol and Hydrolysed Wheat Proteins.
-
NaCl is used in anionic cleansers as a thickening agent. Generally in the range 1% to 3%, but can be up to 5%, it all depends on the surfactant or surfactant blend… you need to add it slowly and experiment because the thickness relative to salt content is not a linear relationship. It’s a bell curve … you reach a maximum thickness and any additional salt actually starts thinning … research “salt curve” surfactants.
NaCl will help as a preservative booster, but I would not rely on it as a preservative per se.Don’t know about gums & NaCl … But, I use Xanthan to thicken a facial cleanser and it works just fine. -
What I mean by that is that only time will tell you whether your formula is stable or not. You just have to do the testing … if your formula fails prior to the proscribed 8 week testing period, that is definitive. You won’t know if it’s a pass until your testing is complete.
-
Yes, Perry, you could could right on that. Generally, regulations are not created unless there is a compelling need to protect consumers.
The EU is well ahead of the US on the creation of Natural standards and related regulations. And this is certainly spurring companies to develop new ingredients … Dr. Straetmann’s, Schulke, Evonik, Solabia that are quite interesting.It may well be that Natural in cosmetics may follow the path of Organic in foods. -
No, I would not rely on it for a commercial launch. It is a quick test for emulsion stability, but you also need to do freeze/thaw cycles. It’s about as much as you can do in 2 to 3 days.
If you are using a proven combination of emulsifiers at the proper amounts and you are aware of other products using that combination that are on the market, that can give you some confidence, but short of doing your own testing, you are never going to be certain. -
No, you want to adjust your formulation final pH to ph<4.5 to inhibit microbial growth and it’s good for the acid mantle barrier.
-
Nasrins,
The stability testing protocols have been developed and used by industry for decades … if there was a legitimate 2 to 3 day shortcut that really gave you results that you could rely on, it would be in common use.But, if you have access to a centrifuge, you can heat your sample up to 50C and centrifuge at 3,000 RPM for 30 minutes and see if you get any separation.You will always know if your product fails well in advance of the point in time that you can conclude that it passes! -
Susulee:
I am assuming that in France, getting a Masters degree in chemistry will require that you do a research project for your Masters Thesis. What specific area of chemistry are you studying … Organic, Biochemistry, Analytical? Your best choice would be the synthesis & analytics course if you are interested in the perfume industry.If you inquire, you may find that one of the professors at your university is a consultant to certain companies in the perfume industry. Sometimes, companies have specific R&D projects that they either don’t have the manpower or budget to pursue and will collaborate with university researchers.Finally, you can contact the R&D departments at some perfume ingredients suppliers and/or perfumers and see if they have advice on getting the proper training to enter the perfume industry and/or if they have any projects that might be suitable for a Masters thesis.As is the case most of the time, you learn industry specific skills by on the job training, but networking a research project may worthwhile to pursue. -
You will run across much information that natural preservatives include honey, essential oils, Radish Root Extract, Honeysuckle, etc., but these should not be relied upon as preservatives, but ingredients in your formulation, and, at best, preservative boosters. Don’t fall into the trap of thinking that adding Radish Root Ferment and Honey is going to preserve your formulation … might as well just throw in some Kimchi
-
(4) Adjust the pH of your final formulation to 5.0 or below. Since the natural acid mantle barrier of the skin is pH 4.7 to 5.1, formulating at pH <4.5 not only enhances your preservation efficacy, it also minimally disrupts the acid mantle barrier.
(5) Use preservative boosters:
(a) Chelating Agents: Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate (0.2%) + Citric Acid (.02%) is as effective as EDTA in boosting preservative efficacy(b) Glycols: 1,3-Propanediol, Glycerin, Caprylyl Glycol: Help reduce bacterial growth by reducing free water activity. Plus, these are good humectants/moisturizers. Since Glycerin has a very sticky feel on the skin, you might consider using 1,3-Propanediol at 5% and Glycine at 2% in your formulations.(c) Phenethyl Alcohol - found in many essential oils, it suppresses odor causing bacteria, and smells like Rose.(d) Ethylhexylglycerin: A nice emollient that inhibits bacterial growth. -
(2) Make certain your are using a broad spectrum preservative blend that is effective against bacteria, yeast & mold.(3) An effective option is to use as a base, organic acid preservative blends that have a long history of use in the food industry (effective against Fungi - yeasts & molds):Potassium Sorbate/Sorbic AcidSodium Benzoate/Benzoic AcidDehydroacetic AcidExamples are: Gluconolactone/Sodium Benzoate, Dehydroacetic Acid/Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Alcohol/Benzoic Acid/Sorbic AcidOther newer options include: Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Anisate, Anisic Acid (Parfum), Salicylic Acid (Organic or Aspen Bark Extract), Citric Acid
-
No problem Azzja. The real problem with the term “Natural”, as you point out, is that it currently has no legal meaning from a labelling perspective.
If you follow the bouncing ball, you will see that ECOCert is the “natural” standard that is clearly taking the lead, as many, many major cosmetics ingredients manufacturers are investing in the development of new ingredients that comply with the ECOCert standards and getting their products ECOCert certified.I suspect we’re not too, too far away from an FDA definition of “Natural” for cosmetics and it will be based on the ECOCert standard. -
Final Report on the Safety Assessment of
Triethanolamine, Diethanolamine, and
Monoethanolamine
http://ijt.sagepub.com/content/2/7/183.abstract (Journal of International Toxicology)
“The Panel concludes that TEA, DEA, and MEA are safe for use in cosmetic formulations designed for discontinuous, brief use followed by thorough rinsing from the surface of the skin. In products intended for prolonged contact with the skin, the concentration of ethanolamines should not exceed 5%. MEA should be used only in rinse-off products. TEA and DEA should not be used in products containing N-nitrosating agents.”
It really comes down to a consurmer perception issue. But, why use TEA when you can use Sodium Lactate which is great skin moisturizing properties in addition to functioning as a pH adjuster and avoid any consumer concern about TEA altogether? -
I was not referring to Vegans, I am referring the the definition of “Natural” by ECOCert and the Natural Products Association.Natural is not at all misleading nor unclear. It is defined the same exact way by both ECOCert and NPA. In addition to the source of the ingredient from a sustainable plant source, the processing methodology to extract the ingredient is evaluated.Vegans are an extreme segment of the natural community … I doubt that they can even come remotely close to living a life that strictly adheres to their principles.
-
Most natural philosophies consider products “manufactured” by animals such as milk, honey, beeswax, etc. to fall within the realm of acceptable natural products or ingredients since the “host organism” (animal, insect, etc.) produces these “animal extracts” as a natural consequence of the host organisms’ earthly existence.
Bees make honey and beeswax … it’s part of what they do for a living … it’s sustainable. If the product or ingredient is a by-product derived from the death of the animal, it is heresy.But, I wonder, if a bee happens to pollenate from a GMO plant source … is the honey still natural? -
Many Thanks, BobZ!
-
All-in-all, a plant species that can genetically produce its own enzymatic insecticide, pretty cool stuff! Better than pesticides.
-
Yes, David. That’s what concerns people about GMO’s … they unnaturally affect the natural order of plant species and can have unintended consequences, which may not be perceptibly evident for many years to come. And, that can be a good thing or it can be a bad thing. Everything in nature is interconnected. We’ll all find out in due course.
-
There is a huge difference between something that could occur in nature without the intervention of man (hybridization, cross-breeding) and something that would never occur in nature without the intervention of man (GMO).
-
The confusion is primarily from people not bothering to look up exactly what the terms mean … the definitions are very clear:
GMO or Transgenic: The introduction of a living organism that had been genetically modified by inserting a gene from an unrelated species. Incorporation of genes from an unrelated species that does not occur in nature through sexual reproduction.Cross-breeding or Hybridization: Inserting a gene from a related species that does, or could, occur in nature from sexual reproduction. -
No, easy to get confused with these three:Glycol Stearate = Glycol Stearate … a thickener and pearlizerGlyceryl Stearate = Glyceryl Monostearate … an emulsifier