MarkBroussard
Forum Replies Created
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You might try dropping the Phenoxy down to 0.6%. While your ingredients may be the same INCI, are you using the same suppliers? That could well be part of your problem. Did the customer give you just a LOI or a full formula with ingredient suppliers included?
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Why don’t you look into bio-surfactants. Check out BioRenuva’s offerings.
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The issue you’re going to have to contend with is that SAP will turn your solution yellow over time. I would just go with straight Niacinamide or Ascorbyl Glucoside instead of SAP.
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I don’t think you’re going to be able to get a clear solution with the GMCY in there … it’s oil soluble. Ditch it for a water-soluble alternative
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What molecular weight HA are you using? This will probably work with a HA < 50 kDa, but not with higher mw HA
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It depends on the Emulsifier, Eugene. Montanov 68 yields low viscosity emulsions, so it will require a higher amount of Fatty Alcohols to achieve a cream viscosity as opposed to a lotion viscosity. Try making the same formula with a different emulsifier and you will see the effect.
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Tremella Fuciformis Extract
Mixed Amino Acids
Betaine
Sodium PCA
Urea or Hydroxyethyl Urea
In a Toner, Glycerin will leave a sticky skin sensorial
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You might try monitoring it for a couple of weeks or so. Gluconolactone tends to cause an acidic pH drift over time.
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I believe that was the issue that resulted in FDA action. They were not registered as drug products. Anything above 10% AHA, I believe is not considered a cosmetic product.
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It’s 10% per product. The FDA just took action against several companies that were selling chemical peels online to consumers.
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I have used it, but prefer PE9010. I don’t see any compelling reason to switch from PE9010. The drawback is that it is not as water soluble as PE9010, so you really can’t use in the water-based serums or surfactant-based formulas. And, it will impart a rose scent to all of your formulas.
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I will talk to my client about splitting off 1 kg for you. The MOQ is not high … 5 kg
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You’re going to have to use Dimethicone … and it works like magic. I have been working with Olivem 1000 for several years now and have tried every iteration to reduce soaping that I can think of. The only thing that actually works is Dimethicone.
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In the US the regulatory on AHA’s is that the pH must be greater than 3.5 and bear a Sunburn Alert Warning Label.
I think anything outside of this range would be consider a “peel”, but even those are now available to consumers on Amazon, for instance.
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Yes, I have a Neurocosmetic product line coming out soon for a client and Serenibiome is a core ingredient.
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AHA’s at pH>3.5 and 10% or less concentration are generally safe as leave-on products with no rinse-off required. Salicylic Acid … same, at 2% is a leave-on product that is safe to use without rinsing off.
If you are getting into higher concentrations of acids that would be more in the chemical peel category, the leave-on application time is generally in the 10 minute range and perhaps up to 20 minutes before the acid is neutralized. Some of these acids are up to 40% concentration (can be applied by an esthetician). An esthetician or physician will generally monitor the client and if/when the client is experiencing too much pain, it is neutralized.
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The easiest approach would be to (1) Lower you pH to below 6.0, and (2) Use Ethanol at 20% … it will dual-function as a preservative and as a semi-solubilizer for your essential oils
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The next step would be to define the target customer, functionality of their products and then do some market research to identify a competitor set to identify Best In Class competitors. Are they primarily interested in an anti-aging skincare line, for instance, and what products would they like to include in a line? Once that is defined, then move on to what ingredients to include in the products.
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Cosmex AI is currently on sabbatical. I will advise when it comes back on line.
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Cosmetic Ingredient Safety Report is not a physical test. It is a compilation of the toxicology of each ingredient in the formula and an assessment of the safety of the product. I offer MoCRA compliance services and can prepare a CISR for you.
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You don’t need to present data, but you will need to have on file:
(1). Preservative Challenge Test Results indicating a Pass
(2) Cosmetic Ingredient Safety Report
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Why do you not just make this as a two phase system that you shake before use? Xanthan Gum is not going to “emulsify” the oil and water phases. And, you have a high level of gums, so they are going to pill.
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Here’s the FDA OTC Monograph for Acne products:
If the product does not contain one of the FDA approved ingredients you cannot use the word Acne in your marketing
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Yes, I don’t think the % of revenues model is working for anyone. Not sure if EWG is still pursuing that as a model any longer.
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I am currently working on a project to create a vegan mucin. It is comprised of as many individual components of snail mucin as possible, plus some other ingredients, but flaxseed extract is not something I tried. I see that Lucas Meyer has an ingredient, Scuptessence, that is a flaxseed extract. You might give that a tried.