MakingSkincare
Forum Replies Created
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If you’re looking for DIY homecraft resellers: Natragem EW contains a polyglyceryl (Polyglyceryl-6 Palmitate/Succinate) and is sold by Penny Lane Organics (Original supplier: Croda). I have found it to be a stable, easy to use, “natural” emulsifier blend.If you aren’t bound by DIY suppliers Evonik sell some nice polyglyceryl esters, as does Gattefosse. Do send me a private message and I’ll recommend some. -
Cold process polymeric emulsifiers are very popular amongst chemists and finding their way into the DIY homecraft market. Once you’ve used one you’ll be hooked!! A formulating tip - they are sensitive to electrolytes (aloe, protein, some extracts, hyaluronic acid etc) and most prefer a pH of above 6 so aren’t suitable to use with organic acid preservatives.
BTW often DIY resellers rename ingredients. Gelmaker Ultra is actually IntegriGEL O/W MO 2-11pH and Gelmaker Ultra is Seppic’s Simulgel. The Simulgel you can buy from these 2 European DIY resellers: macosmetoperso and http://lesutilesdezinette.com
Sepigel is also a popular and worth trying - it’s sold by farmaciavernile.it A nice tip: if your formula is too thin - you can hand stir 1% of this in at the end and it will thicken nicely (provided the pH isn’t too low and there are no electrolytes).
If you’d like something similar to Gelmaker sold in the UK I’d recommend BASF’s cosmedia ACE which is sold by Gracefruit in the UK as Easymix velvet.
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Knaqsim I think you’ll find this forum useful: http://www.basenotes.net/forums/15-Fragrance-DIY
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I am not sure which level you are at but if it is basic, then swiftcraftymonkey’s website is a good place to start.
When you are ready you can put your formulas for “Kryolon aqua makeup and Wolf’s aqua pallet” in % (including the process) here and I’m sure you will get constructive feedback.
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Yes you can Esthyvelvet1
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I’m not sure where you live, but in the UK most development chemists have science degrees and then take the SCS exams. So, the SCS Dip. is a recognised qualification by employers.
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Petulia, please do send me a message with your CV as we are currently looking for an intern in London, UK. (Or you can, as Perry suggests, contact the Society of Cosmetic Scientists in the UK and they will refer you to us since I was just yesterday chatting to them about this).
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Have you calibrated your pH meter? How are exactly are you measuring the pH? What are in the ingredients in your clay mask?
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Please can you give the full inci names of each ingredient and % of every ingredient. Please also give details of the process and what you mean by “hardens up”.
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Yes as Belassi said, the consensus amongst most chemists seems to be that phytocide doesn’t provide sufficient protection and clay is one of the hardest ingredients to preserve.
Effective preservation can’t be summed up into a couple of sentences. Have you seen the preservation strategy and reviews here: http://www.makingskincare.com/preservatives/ There are a huge number of factors to take into consideration (eg cfu/ml of each ingredient, pH, GMP, polyol/alcohol etc content, Aw, chelators, container’s ease of contamination, whether ingredient is a nutrient for microbes eg milk, clay, protein, aloe, hydrosols etc).
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I’ve used sunspheres in my spf formulations for clients and it did raise the SPF.
You’ve probably seen amphisol K in a lot of sunscreen formulas as that is marketed to boost SPF.
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These two links below will give you an idea for a starting formula: http://www.personalcaremagazine.com/formulation-details/2239/natural-hair-pomade?companyid=1259
http://sc.akzonobel.com/formulations/AkzoNobel_formulation_12859125w.pdf -
Can you explain what you mean by “no harmful chemical additives” and “chemical free”? Which natural standard are you using: https://chemistscorner.com/cosmetic-chemists-guide-to-natural-and-organic-cosmetic-standards/
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Have you searched this forum as this has been discussed quite a bit already - just some of the posts:-https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/1088/matte-lipstick-base
And you can use vegetable waxes instead of beeswax: http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.co.uk/2009/09/waxes.html
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Clay (in water) is one of the hardest ingredients to preserve.
There’s a preservative strategy and reviews here which should help walk you through the process: http://www.makingskincare.com/preservatives
Good luck
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For a cheap option, try a reptile egg incubator.
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For high yield try Aculyn Excel or Aculyn 38.
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I know some chemists have experienced issues with cetearyl glucoside re stability. As ozgirl mentions, emulugin SG is a great add to an emulsifier blend. It’s an anionic, powerful “natural” emulsifier and I have found it to be highly effective. For those homecrafters who wish to try this, it’s not yet available on the DIY homecraft supplier market but I’m endeavouring to persuade some suppliers to bring it in. In the meantime I recommend to my students (and in my discussion forum), this natural reliable emulsifier blend: natragem EW sold in Canada/USA: Penny Lane Organics and sold in Europe by these 3 suppliers as “ecomuls” (not to be confused with “ecomulse”): rosarome.de, hobby-kosmetik.de, behawe.com.
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Please can you give the inci names of each ingredient and the % you used of each ingredient. Please also describe what you mean by “absorption”.
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Yes square hole high shear.
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Yes Margreat, I also like Gattefosse’s “natural” emulsifier, Emulium Mellifera however it is quite costly so doesn’t fall easily within clients’ budgets. (It tends to have good stability though).
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You could also try viscoptima LV and simulgel FL. Don’t forget to add a broad spectrum preservative.
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SSDC, sounds like you need high yield for stability and suspension. Not sure which UV filters you are using but you could try bentone gels (oil phase), aristoflex velvet (water phase).
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For example, Merck’s Eusolex® 2292 contains BHT with its UVB filter, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate. Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate is a derivative of cinnamate acid which is an unsaturated fatty acid so the BHT’s purpose is as an antioxidant to help stability.
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Nabil, there are thousands of supplier formulas on the web. I’m sure some chemists have tried some of these formulas. But as Perry said they are there as starting formulas for guidance as to how to use the supplier’s ingredients. Some supplier formulas work better than others and I have known some to not work at all. Some suppliers state if their formula has passed stability test but you should conduct your own testing and research etc.