[MaisR]

On the back of my previous I have another question relating to accounting for delivery costs of raw materials in my costing and also accounting for fixed costs (such as stability testing or challenge testing. How can I make sure my costing covers these please?

Thank you.

[MaisR]

Thank you so much Perry and Suswang8 for your help. I really do appreciate it.

[MaisR]

I am by no means an expert in formulating haircare but coco glucoside and cocamidopropyl betaine are mild surfactants. A blend of surfactants will typically make a surfactant gentle and mild.

SCI is a powdered/noodle surfactant and I am not sure if it can be used in a liquid formulation.

I am not sure about xantham gum or guar gum but, if they can be used in a surfactant system, I imagine it will be at a low %

Hope this helps a bit.

[MaisR]

@JonahRay, thank you for the suggestion. I will look into it.

[MaisR]

@ozgirl, thank you for your suggestion to use Olivem 300. However, in this instance I want to keep my formulation PEG free. 

Just today I was looking at some of the other emulsifiers HallStar has to offer in hopes I could find something that would help me with my oil based cleanser. I’m still not sure though!

[MaisR]

@Gunther, thank you for directing me to this post. I had in fact already read it and agree entirely that water based cleansers do not work on makeup removal. That’s why I’m so keen on perfecting my oil based cleanser. I only use oil based cleansers or balms to remove my makeup (because they are so efficient at it!)

Thanks once again.

[MaisR]

@ngarayeva001, thank you very much for your input. I was researching into the problem with my cleansing oil and did read that I may need to combine Polyglyceryl 4 oleate with a high HLB emulsifier. This then confused me further because my understanding was that for PEG-free emulsifiers calculating the HLB isn’t necessary. I would like to keep my formulation PEG-free and as naturally derived as possible. Is HLB calculation used for naturally derived emulsifiers? I just tend to see what type of emulsifier it is: o/w or w/o and take it from there.

I know that the HLB of polyglyceryl 4 oleate is around 5 so your suggestion is I combine it with a high HLB emulsifier? The issue is I don’t know of any naturally derived emulsifiers with a high HLB.

Thank you for your suggestions. I thought my little post had been forgotten about!

[MaisR]

@JonahRay, thank you for your input. Polyglyceryl 4 oleate is meant to be used as an emulsifier in up to 100% oil systems so I don’t think that is the problem here. I do, however, think that the coco glucoside is part of the problem (or at least it’s not making things any better). 

[MaisR]

@Dtdang I’m not sure if it is the same or not. I’m glad you said about the hydrolyzed proteins. I was going to try them but now I know not to (for this particular purpose of line blurring). I will post my results too. 

[MaisR]

@Bill_Toge Thank you for your suggestions. I have had a look and noted them down and will see if I can try them out in small quantities.

[MaisR]

My personal recommendation is looking at the INCI list of products you like and understanding what each ingredient is used for and why it is included in the product. You can then read and learn more about these different ingredients through sites like INCI Decoder and UL Prospector.

[MaisR]

@Dtdang Thanks for your input. So, I take it I need to use a lot more salts. I am going to keep trying with the ratios. Once I get the formula and consistency right I will then have a play with the essential oils. Thanks again!

[MaisR]

@ozgirl Thank you for your suggestions. I have subscribed to her blog now and have decided to give Olivem 1000 a try first. 

[MaisR]

@Belassi It is exactly that-a hobbyist’s emulsifier. The INCI is cetearyl alcohol and polysorbate 60. Alright, I will try with the ration you suggested. Thank you for that.

Regarding the salt complicating things- from what aspect? In terms of preservation? 

Thank you for your help. I really appreciate it.

[MaisR]

@Belassi Thank you for your input. You’re right. It is 12:1. I’ve read that the recommended usage levels are 2-10%, usually 4-5% for lotions and 7-8% for creams.

What % do you suggest I start with for my body scrub? Also, can I use other emulsifiers like Xyliance or Olivem 1000?

[MaisR]

@Sibech I will do that, thank you. I hope it is available for hobby use!

[MaisR]

My formula is:

Shea butter 5%
Cocoa butter 4%
Carrier oil 45%
E-wax NF 5%
Cetyl alcohol 5%
Salt 35%
Preservative 1%

[MaisR]

@Sibech Do you know how I can get hold of this product in the UK? 

[MaisR]

@ngarayeva001- Thank you for your suggestion. I did check the link but in this instance I do prefer something without silicone. 

Thanks.

[MaisR]

@Doreen- Thank you for your input. I’ve had a look at the Ronaflair Flawless and because of the silica content I’m thinking it should work. Taken from the Cossma site it says “this one-of-a-kind functional filler immediately reduces the appearance of lines and wrinkles. Bead-shaped particles roll into and fill out the wrinkle, dispersing light evenly in all directions. The interplay of light and shadow that generally highlights these imperfections is minimized to give an overall even skin appearance.” Thank you for the product brochure. I’m based in the UK so Germany is accessible to me.  

Isoamyl Laurate- because it is supposed to be a natural alternative to silicone I thought it would fill in fine lines but after further research it is more of a dry oil ester. So scratch that. 

Hydrolyzed proteins do have a very bad smell I agree. Again, after more research I think they are used as film formers on the hair and skin but this won’t have much visual effect on fine lines.

Thanks for your input.

[MaisR]

I haven’t tried this myself yet but I’ve read that vegetal/montanov68 (trade names) can create both thick and thin emulsions. The INCI is cetearyl alcohol and cetearyl glucoside.

[MaisR]

Sucragel- I have yes but only for creating gel-to-milk systems. I actually didn’t even consider using this as an emulsifier. I will trial it and see how it performs. I am after a nice clean rinse off. 

[MaisR]

I should also mention that the only other ingredient in my cleansing oil was jojoba oil. 

[MaisR]

For the sake of knowledge and as a second option could I use any polymer to give me this gummy texture I am after?

[MaisR]

Thank you very much Bill_Toge. 

If it helps anyone here is the link:

https://www.seppic.com/simulgel-ns