Forum Replies Created

  • Your problem is called recrystallization and is common with butters. The answer to this very common problem is simple: add a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester (PEFA) to this formula, preferably a multi ester such as Polyglyceryl -4 Diisostearate or Polyglyceryl-6 Octastearate.  Both are used in food science to avoid the very same problem. IF you cannot get hold of any the next best thing is this “hack”: use hydrogenated lecithin. Lends an icky sensorial compared to to the silky one the PEFA contributes, but it usually works.

    I have polyglyceryl-3 oleate which i understand isn’t a multi ester, but could it work? How do those ingredients help with preventing recrystallization? I know I need to experiment, but would you be able to give me an idea of a percentage to start off with? 

  • emma1985 said:

    Larger batches of anhydrous products are ALWAYS going to develop more graininess than smaller batches. Because they take longer to cool.

    Controlled cooling is extremely important with anhydrous products.

    Never ever do a hot pour, always stir until the product starts gaining some viscosity before pouring.

    You can use an ice bath, but I actually prefer to use a cool water bath because the product begins solidifying too quickly in an ice bath, in my experience.

    After pouring, put the products in the refrigerator to set up. I NEVER let my anhydrous products set up at room temperature. The point is quick, controlled, even cooling.

    You are already doing one thing right, adding your oils after melting the wax and butter. This helps with controlled cooling.

    Unfortunately Candellila Wax is one of the more grainy waxes. If you don’t want to switch to another wax, try the method I’ve explained.

    Good to know! I was mind boggled as to why my balms were perfect at room temp in the smaller batch vs the larger one. I definitely need to experiment with stirring until a trace bc I feel sometimes when I get to the end of the batch so much has solidified that I would need to RE-melt and that could affect the formula. I did notice candelilla has a high melting point, do you feel melting that with the mango butter at such a high temperature and then holding wouldn’t effect the properties of the butter or do you think it’s best to melt separately?

  • skin_alchemy

    Member
    April 13, 2024 at 5:10 pm in reply to: How can a formula be “water free” and contain HA?

    Wow, ’m embarrassed to say that I already knew about that ingredient, have it saved for future formulations, and yet completely forgot all about its existence until now. Thanks for sharing and jostling my memory ????

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