ketchito
Forum Replies Created
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I’m not sure you’ll get the effect you want (niacinamide is water soluble, so an anhydrous product is not the best delivery system for niacinamide). What’s the effect you’re trying to get?
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I agree with @Fehker, reduce CAPB a bit. Also, your BTMS could impact your foaming, so perhaps you could make a sample replacing BTMS with SCI, just to compare.
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In a water-based system, you don’t solubilize the silicone but rather stabilize it by making an emulsion. If you have residues, then either increase your emulsifier or change it….or use an emulsified silicone instead.
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Hi! Sorry for the late reply. I believe it depends. If you want to reduce damage due to free radicals formation and you use Tinogard in a leave-on product, then that’s possible. I remember a paper from P&G where they showed how protection from oxidative stress using a tropical product could even improve anchoring of hair. Now, you need to use it in the right product, so the media where free radicals would form is the same, and they can interact. Now, if you mean UV damage (because of absorption and bond cleavage), then you might need more than what’s usually recommended by the manufacturer (which is 0.1%), and better pair it with a molecule whose main action if UV absorption).
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Do you have any electrolyte in yoir formula?
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Just in case, Triclosan has been banned in the USA as antibacterial agent in soaps, so be careful about that.
Regarding the grease removal, are you using a 27% or 70% version of your SLES. If it’s the 27% version, you definitely need to significantly increase its level. If it’s the 70%, you could increase your SLS up to 1%.
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Just for context, EPA has in its website an entry where they made comments to the safety reviews they conducted on DEET: https://www.epa.gov/insect-repellents/deet
Also, there is some info about insect repellants that use actives not registred by EPA (mostly natural oils), that don’t pose a risk for humans, but whose effectiveness hasn’t been evaluated: https://www.epa.gov/insect-repellents/regulation-skin-applied-repellents. Effectiveness evaluation is a very thorough, complex, lenghty and expensive process, but it makes sure that an active really delivers its performance because the outcome when it doesn’t is the exposure of people to very severe conditions.
epa.gov
DEET (chemical name, N,N-diethyl-meta-toluamide) is the active ingredient in many insect repellent products. It is widely used to repel biting pests such as mosquitoes and ticks. Formulations registered for direct skin application contain 4% to 100% DEET.
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What’s the level of you non ionic surfactant in your formula? For dilute products it’s not that high, so perhaps you’re formulating a concentrated product.
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The phenomena you describe about clarity and temperature is common for some non ionic surfactants.
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If you take out the fragrance and the yellowing is gone, then the fragrance is oxidizing. For that, I’d add Tinogard TL premixed with the fragrance (between 0.05-0.10%).
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To @PhilGeis point, the formation of scum from soaps is a very well documented phenomena. Not only because of the physical residues, but because unlike sodium/potassium soaps which have foaming properties (not comparable to sulfates or sulfonates, but that’s a different story), calcium soaps are know defoamers. I attached a book image for rerefence. And for soaps, it’s not hard to form calcium salts, especially in cities with high levels of hard water and in the absence of a robust chelating system.
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Can you try not homogenizing the HEC but mixing it with something more simple, like a small turbine with blades? Also, after 5 min of mixing, you could add some base (like NaOH) to help hydrate the HEC, but lowering the mixing speed.
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Did you do a knockout test, just to confirm it’s the HA?
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To reduce the bubbles, you can either add some dimethicone or replace your Montanov 68 with a different emulsifier, like PEG-100 stearate (and) Glyceryl stearate.
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Please, don’t get me wrong, I just to understand something 🤓:
You’re using as a base exclusively natural oils/extracts, and yet you’re using very synthetic UV filters, so it’s not that you want your formula to be only “natural”.
Now, you mention that you want “safer” ingredients, but many of the natural oils and extracts you’d use might be sensitizers, comedogenic, etc (at least more than some esters or silicones), especially at the high doses you require. What types of sources of information did you use? Did you check CIR and Cosing? Those are databases where safety studies have been reviewed by the best independent toxicologists in the industry.
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Can you pour the content of the good bottles in a glass jar, and then inside the fridge? If they also develop these white precipitates, then it has to do with the kraft point of your formula. For that, you could add some solubilizer.
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I don’t think there are. The interaction between metallic ions and chelants in cosmetics is ionic in nature, for what you need a protic solvent, which in our case is water. Also, the metallic ions you want to protect your products from are completely or partially soluble in water, so you need your chelant to also be soluble in water.
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They are either creating a microemulsion, or using a very little amount of oils/butters (suspended) while having an alpha phase. Try making the same formula you have but without the oils and butters. If you get an optically similar product, then make another sample just with tiny amounts of oils.
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The oldest one Dr Goddard (the father of coacervation) and later P&G used and studied: polyquaternium-10. It’s been widely researched for decades, especially coacervates with SLS and SLES.
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Put in the oven samples without the issue, and check if they also become turbid.
And just in case, always premix your fragrance with your non ionic surfactant before adding it to the batch.
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If you want to be safe about heat and preservatives, you just need to follow supplier’s recommendarions (like Arxada or Clariant). As a rule of thumb, liquid aromatic ones are the ones that are more sensitive to evaporation at high T.
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No problem 🤓. In a normal o/w emulsion, your surfactant keeps oil particles from coalesce and separate from your system. But the more oil you have (let’s say above 50-60% of your formula), the hardest it is for your surfactant to hold all that volumen, until a point in which your emulsion turns into a w/o that will be unstable (it will phase separate) if your surfactant is more soluble in water (high HLB). This can happen even at a lower volume fraction if you don’t have enough surfactant or if it has a high affinity for your oil phase.
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In Glyceryl Stearate & Cetearyl Alcohol & Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, both the glyceryl stearate and the cetearyl alcohol work as structuring agents rather than emulsifiers. You also see SSL at the end, since under the LGN, the structuring agents are always in excess compared to the emulsifier. I believe the phase inversion you mentioned might be due either for the amount of oils, amount of emulsifier and/or manufacturing method.
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Even though the serum goes on hair, some will be in contact with the scalp. 10-15% of natural oils is actually quite a lot, especially if it’s not an emulsion. And if you want something that has less chances to make your skin reactive, esters and silicones are more recommended than natural oils.
I agree with @fareloz , especially when talking about a body/face sunscreen. You’ll need not only the right equipment but years of knowledge and experience.
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@Ashley_Finch Just out of curiosity, are you from the AI multiverse? 🤓. Just to clarify, salicylic acid is not a solubilizer, but a keratolytic agent, meaning that it breaks down bonds, especially the ones from the most outer layer of the skin.