ketchito
Forum Replies Created
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Do you mean something like Steareth-2 and Steareth-12? I remember Unilever doing that for their antiperspirants. I believe it’s just for producing a very robust emulsion. Also, keep in mind the amount of electrolytes those type of emulsions should support (because of the aluminium salts).
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If at 60°C you’re at your PIT and some water has evaporated, then that could be the reason. More reason to follow @PhilGeis ‘s advice about the stability temperature.
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You can increase your CAPB a bit, and check again if NaCl increased the viscosity. Also, for transparent systems, you could use PEG-12 dimethicone, between 1-2%.
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You might be experiencing heat stability issues. Do you need yo heat? Maybe you can try premixing the ingredient with an ingredient that makes it more soluble.
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The problem is clearly PEG-40 HCO, not only impairs viscosity but also foam. You’d be better off without essentisl oils, using a regular fragrance (they normally come with their own solubilizer), and without the need to add PEG-40 HCO.
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You need something to add lubrication, and for that, silicones are kings (or queens). Are you up to use silicones? Or not really? Chances are the benchmark you chose also leaves hair tangled.
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I assume your issue is phase separation. What’s your final pH? That little sodium hydroxido won’t be enough to neutralize your Stearic acid, so you won’t have enough emulsifier. Also, Stearic acid is not the best emulsifier, especially to work with such waxed, even with the help of your sodium lauroyl glutamate. Either change your Stearic acid for something like PEG-100 stearate (and) Glyceryl stearate, or add the needed amount of sodium hydroxide to properly neutralize your stearic, and replace part of your waxes by cetearyl alcohol. Also, Cyclotetrasiloxane is already banned.
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I agree with @abdullah. The first product is not really an emulsion. You can remove from your formula Ceyl alcohol and the Polyorbate, and start tesring with 0.5% of your anionic surfactant.
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I totally agree with @Perry44 . And that’s the resonan the gold standard in clinical trials is to have it double-blinded, since even the researcher himself could be biased. Bias is one of the best tools ingredients suppliers use to sell their
products.
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Few things actually could be happening. First, Xanthan gum needs to also be hydrated before surfactants are added, with high mixing and for some time. Also, you’re not neutralizing your Acrylates…, so you won’t let it unfold and hydrate properly; plus, you won’t get viscosity from it at low pH. Also, your isethionate might not me stable for long at very low pH. Remove that Glycerin, please. And if you want to use Polyquaternium-10, mix it and hydrate it separately.
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If that’s your full formula, I’d think that you have oils of different polarities, and that caused the phase separation. I’d advise you to chech the limit (and type) of polar oils you can mix with your paraffin. That color difference might be since paraffin is colorless and most of the polar oils you mentioned are not.
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If your issue only shows up when you deop the viscosity, then charges might be involved. After a while, do you see some precipitates? Can you make a sample with and without adding any acid to tune pH, and put both samples in the fridge for a few days? Also, what’s your pH before and after adjusting?
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Instead of reverse engineer it, I’d try to make it better, by removing both Glycerin, Ethanol and all of those useless extracts, adding a broad spectrum preservation system, and a cationic polymer for conditioning.
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Replace Decyl glucoside with Sodium cocoyl isethionate, and you’ll have a creamier foam and more viscosity. Also, I think your Glycinate could thicken with a lower pH.
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I wouldn’t replace your BTMS for PQ-37. PQ-37 is a cationically modified polyacrylate, and it has a different function than BTMS. If you want to used, I’dd add some of the PQ-37 to your original base, and see how it feels.<div>
Quaternium-80 is a silicone cationic polymer which mixes the best of both worlds, the solubility of water soluble cationic polymers, and the lubricity of silicones. I’d start with 0.2%, and increase if needed.
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There was a very nice article from Dow on the topic. PQ-10 has both more charge density and hydrophobicity than PQ-7, that’s why it’s the king of deposition. For microemulsions there was some caviat compared to large particle silicones, but I can’t recall what. Nevertheless, I believe better deposition using PQ-10 would still hold for microemulsions.
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I agree with @chemicalmatt. To address milanes, there are different tests. Perhaps in the book, they considered only a test in which SLS showed a better result than ALS. As a general rule, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfates are milder than SLS, and the same happens with Mg copared with Na, and with ethoxylated compared to non ethoxylated anionic surfactants.
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I meant mildness not milanes…damn you spelling checker ????
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As I recall, Sodium cocoyl isethionate being an ester, is prone to hydrolysis (especially acid). Below a pH of 6, this starts being an issue. Now, at a pH of 5 or close to 4, your acrylates are not properly neutralize so, you don’r have viscosity from this and it has reduced solubility. Even though glycerin helps de-agglomerate your xanthan gum before mixing with water, it can impair foam. Xanthan gum can be perfectly mixed in water, providing that you do it at the start. You actually don’t need these polymers in your system to get viscosity: isethionate is salt responsive, so add some Cocmidopropyl betaine and some salt (if you don’t want to add salt, add some Cocamide DEA or similar).
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Can you make a sample without BHT? Sometimes it reacts with nitrogen compounds, giving a yellow color.
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Close to 4.5 or 4.0. If you don’t see an increase in viscosity, then focus more on switching from Decyl glucoside to a more salt-responsive surfactante (like SCI or a sulfonate).
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That your first prototype didn’t show precipitates, could be due to viscosity, since you mentioned it’s gel-like, but it might still have issues. Hemp oil would be an issue only if you see droplets on top…but if your precipitates sink at the bottom, then it’s something else. May I suggest alto to make a sample without siligel?
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In my experience, an emulsion can pass centrifugue and still have stability issues. Heat is a better predictor. For the top layer, it’s hard to tell without knowing the rest of ingredients (eg., non polar oils tend to separate faster in aqueos formulas).
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That can be the case of some cationic surfactants, especially with CTC. But, when properly formulated, there shouldn’t be an issue. For instance, choosing BTMS over BTC for a milder product is advisable.
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The non polar part of the silicon is what gives lubricity to the skin, and on that, if both silicones have the same molecular weight, there’s no difference in performance. On the sticking part, you don’t need it (or want it), that’s why it’s a leave on formula.