ketchito
Forum Replies Created
-
For what I read and for what you’ve experienced, yes, it needs to be neutralized. Now, since sodium benzoate is a basic salt, it will act as neutralizer of your carbopol, so it’s best not to add sodium benzoate at the start, but after the surfactants.
-
Can you compare both the pH and free base (maybe sodium hydroxide) of both surfactants?
-
Could you make the second one withput the Citric acid (don’t mind about the pH)? I believe alfer sulfation, some amount of base is added to neutralize the free sulfuric acid remaining. There might be more of this in the powder than in the liquid, hence you need to add more acid to lower the pH.
-
Both PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate and PEG-6 CCT are emollients, not detergents. That type of detergent reminds me the same principle of co-washes, which is wrong from the cleaning perspective. I think you could benefit more from using a mild anionic surfactant combined with an amphoteric, to reduce micelle charge density and free anionic molecules.
-
I personally don’t used Croda formulations, not even as a starting point since you’ll be bound to their ingredients, many of which you won’t find anywhere else.
-
Happy new year as well to this amazing group 🤓
-
The emulsifier in your silicone microemulsion might be causing a rearrangement of your micellar system. You can use a rheology modifier to counteract this effect.
-
Do you have pictures? Since water is usually more dense than your oil phase, when separation occurs, water tends to go to the bottom, and over time, you’ll see how how it grows more and more. If what you see on top is a clear layer, then those are your nonpolar oils. It’s best if you pictures of what you’re seeing.
-
The main advise is not to mix directly both cationic guar and the anionic surfactant, to prevent forming a coacervate in the mixture rather than during rinsing.
But for me, the main issue with adding it after surfactants is that they prevent the polymer to uncoil and properly hydrate (a portion of an acid is always added to the polymer solution, to speed hydration). This is needed for better interaction of binding sites with surfactants and fully display of viscosity. It’s like trying to make a carpet fit on the floor when all your guests are already in the room…and drunk…and dancing.
-
I’ve seen a similar gel phase forming with different type of anionic-cationic surfactant systems. Can you try a sample without CAPB, adjust the pH and add the CAPB at last and little by little (add 1% for instance, mix and see what happens; if the solution is still clear, add another 1%).
-
I’d say LABSA since it has more charge density and less water solubility.
-
Don’t replace Cetyl alcohol (needed for lamellar structures). Perhaps you could actually remove Glyceryl stearate SE (potassium stearate is known for soaping) and increase your Glyceryl stearate & PEG-100 stearate…or replace Glyceryl stearate SE by Ceteareth-20.
-
Always take the value in the middle (2.5%). Now, keep in mind that your active is not water soluble, so depending on the product you want to use it, it might not work for your purpose (actually, botanicals barely live up to the claims they are preceded by 🙂
-
If you want a very light conditioning product, then that’s ok. You don’t have enolients though, so combing won’t be as easy, especially when hair is wet.
-
Just as a note, fluoride reinforces teeth enamel to reduce abrasion, so none of those replacements are such thing.
Also, CAPB is a por foamer on its own; glucosides are better, but not at the level of sodium lauryl sulfate which is often used. Also, at that level of surfactan and with very large amounts of polyols, I don’t think your product would be a good cleanser. Check patents of big companies as reference.
-
Even though Quaternium-87 would do the job also as an emulsifier, the cationic amine is sterically hindered. Can you switch to Behentrimonium chloride or methosulfate? Also, don’t use more than 2-2.5%. Also, HEC doesn’t help stabilize much since it doesn’t have mich surface activity. Could you replace it by <b style=”font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: var(-bb-body-text-color);”>Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate?
-
As @chemicalmatt mentioned, CDEA will increase micelle formation. This will reduce charge density of your micelles, but only because you’ll have CDEA molecules between SLES molecules (mixed micelles) and larger micelle structures compared to SLES alone. To reduce charge itself, you could either use a more ethoxylated SLES (inductive effect), a lower solution pH to protonate your anionic, electrolytes, and a co-surfactant or any other molecule that could form hydrogen bonds with your sulfate.
-
I would change the book 🤓
-
Usually fragrances come with a fixative polymer and high molecular weight aromatic compounds to increase deposition. Now, you could add a cationic polymer to your formula (like guar HPTC) wich during washing will form a coacervate with your anionic surfactant and help deposit part of your fragrance.
-
I’d test your base first without STPP or NaCl. You have quite some LABSA so you need toncheck first if it’s stable on its own. If it’s not, you need to replace part of it by SLES…or use a hydrotrope like SXS.
-
I mention that’s the quick way for not having that at all. With waxy structuring agents you’ll always have some transient white residue, although at different levels. You can actually use both rheology modifiers (not only gums) and fatty alcohols at the same time. I’d advise you to find one commercial product that you like, and search for its patent.
-
I understand now. That white residue is mostly your fatty alcohol. If you don’t want that residue (even if it’s temporary), then you could use rheology modifiers or polymeric emulsifiers instead of waxy structuring agents (like fatty alcohols of glyceryl stearate). Those emulsions will not have the same properties as the ones with structuring agents (like lower TEWL) but would aesthetically be more in line with what you want.
-
After reading more comments in your thread, I need to ask what is it that you’re experiencing as soaping.
-
You better not replace any part of your alcohol (needed for good and stable emulsion interface) by cetyl palmitate.
HLB is best applied to non ionic ethoxylated surfactants. In your Glyceryl stearate SE you have a structuring agent (Glyceryl stearate) and an anionic emulsifier (potassium stearate, which is actually a “soap”). Just replace the Glyceryl stearate SE by any of the sugestión I gave earlier.
-
I believe standards that are used by regulators to evaluate “proper” preservation of cosmetics are really below the standards of big companies like P&G, who understood those standards do not adress the in-use risk. That’s why some products that pass those standards have to be later recalled do to contamination.