[ketchito]

The key there for the not completely solid white color is propylene glycol.

[ketchito]

Yes. Cationic polymers are commonly incorporated in shampoos with anionic surfactants without issue.

[ketchito]

Thank you for the advice Perry, I appreciate it 🤓

[ketchito]

Keep in mind that they’re are using way more cetyl than stearyl alcohol. That can influence final viscosity.

Also, this might be a bit counterintuitive, but try with a bit less of SLS.

[ketchito]

First, what are you using to neutralize your sulfonic acid, and what’s your final pH. For these products, the higher the better.

To improve performance, increase your non ionic surfactant (although, i wouldn’t use nonylphenol, and would replace it with something like laureth-9 or laureth-7).

The optical brightener is ubiquitous. Tinopal CBS-X is a good reference, and there are many cheap versions, mainly from China.

A good chelant would also improve your performance.

[ketchito]

Thanks for your comments.

[ketchito]

The two silicones in your benchmark are for clear systems, perhaps that’s the reason.

[ketchito]

Cut both the Guar HPTC and the silicone in half. Then, if you require extra slip, increase the silicone little by little.

[ketchito]

Could you make a test removing ethoxydiglycol?

[ketchito]

Waxes are hard to emulsify, that’s whay they might be getting out of your emulsion and give that waxy feeling. I recommend you to check commercial products so you understand better their fórmulas. For a hair pomade (I think that’s what you’re trying to do), a high amount of a waxy emulsifier like ceteareth-20 can work. Also, styling polymers work well for hold.

[ketchito]

If it were me, i’d choose BTMS since it gives a stiffer alpha gel and a bit more slip thanks to the counterion. Although the difference is not radical, a lower price and decently better performance would make me choose BTMS.

[ketchito]

Then there’s something wrong with your pearlizer or the process. Your pearlizer shouldn’t interfere with the viscosity, since what should happen is that it crystalizes out of the solution, hence, no interacion should happen. Another chance is that you make a pear premix with water and surfactant, let it cool, and then add it to the rest of the bulk. You could also use a ready-made cold processable pearlizer.

[ketchito]

Ok. Can you try with only 1%, instead of 2%?

[ketchito]

Usually, you need to cool down slowly for crystals to properly form. How are you doing your cooling down process?

[ketchito]

What’s your manufacturing method (order of addition, mixing speed, heating, time, etc.), and which equipment are you using to make the product?

[ketchito]

I’d still make a sample with SLES instead you your coco sulfate, only to see i it’s the kraft point or not🤓

[ketchito]

I would start with 0.1%. Increase if needed, little by little.

[ketchito]

There’s no reason for having so much panthenol (very water soluble) in a rinse-off product. Same goes for the glycerin which not only doesn’t perform in a rinse-off formula, it won’t let you build viscosity and will impair foam. Use no more than 0.5% of both. Also, salt additions should be done gradually (for instance, increments of 0.2%).

[ketchito]

What’s the pH of your system?

[ketchito]

Could you remove both Glyceryl laurate and your cellulose (HPMC)?

[ketchito]

If you need to anyway raise the pH of your chitosan solution, perhaps a small addition of an inorganic salt could reduce inter and intramolecular interactions that produce the hydrogel to swell. Try first with a small amount of a monovalent salt.

[ketchito]

That doesn’t seem like a formula for an insect repellent. You can check in EPA’s website for similar products, what active they are using and at which level.

[ketchito]

As mentioned by other members, reduce the allantoin. Nevertheless, I understand that in few attempts you removed allantoing without solving the issue. It could actually be due to the kraft point of your system. Could you replace your cocosulfate with SLES? If that doesn’t work, perhaps remove the HEC (sometimes it doesn’t get along with glucosides).

[ketchito]

Hi. Can you be a bit more specific?

[ketchito]

I’ve seen phase separation happening in emulsions with cellulosic thickeners, so ai recommend to make a test without it; in fact, I was checking similar formulas from Beiersdors and Unilever, and they don’t seem to have a thickener, since the film required for a roll-on is easily achievable through a proper mix of emulsifiers.