ketchito
Forum Replies Created
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Unfortunately instead of cationic proteins, you have cationic peptides and other smaller molecules. I wouldn’t use them in a shampoo since few of those peptides have film forming capacity. I’d use them more (not cationic but normal hydrolyzed proteins) in a mask or leave-on product to allow difusion.
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Keep in mind that ChatGPT only has access to abstracts or open access journals, while leaving many out, so there’s some bias (access bias?) to its answer. I’d feel more comfortable checking EU opinión on the topic, or CIR review.
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Usually that yellowish color comes from some residual amines. You can try lowering the pH (make few samples decreasing the pH and compare them to see if it improves the color). Also, usually adding a dye solves the issue (I wouldn’t be so worried to have a yellowish tone before adding a dye).
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You can search in any of these books:
- Handook of cosmetic science and technology
- Handbook of green chemicals
- Handbook of cosmoceuticals and excipients
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You first mix, and then you reduce the pH, else, GHPTC would gel and won’t let you mix well.
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What exactly you’re searching for? There are different databases where you can find the stucture of all polyquaterniums registered.
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When adding phase B to phase A, you mention you mix until combined. Usually, an emulsion requires quite some energy (that’s why you mix like hell while keeping the temperature high for some minutes), to get the structure going. Once that’s done, you reduce mixing speed and start cooling down. Perhaps that’s the issue.
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As @Fedaro mentioned, you’re leaving out the best ingredients for your purpose. You could alternatively add Lamesoft PO 65, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate or a small amount of a cationic surfactant (there are ratios and types of cationics that can be added without trouble).
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In the first part of the premix, they want to GHPTC to be mixed without gelling, that’s why the high pH (I’ve seen that in a UL patent). I guess they add the silicone after so the coacervate is more homogenous in composition (but that’s a guess), and then they add the acid to make the gel.
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That formula I know almost by heart (why didn’t you ever want to hire me, P&G? hehehe). From the patents I’ve seen, they use Stearyl at 0.64% and Cetyl at 0.36%. Percentages could vary a bit, but in any case, I’d bet Stearyl is lower than 1%. For the SXS, keep in mind you have quite some electrolytes in that formula (your Na citrate-citric acid buffer, added NaCl, surfactant’s NaCl, Na benzoate, Na4 EDTA, etc.), so you need to prevent precipitation/solubility issues, and that’s where SXS comes in handy. They use a lot of it in their dishwashers as well.
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Are those ingredients the only ones in your formula? Where they completely dissolved at the start? What’s the pH of your solution?
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Bubbles happen probably due to CO2 production. You won’t have the same issue with HCl. Just keep in mind that neutralization is very exothermic, so better use very diluted solutions.
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Get rid of Aloe Vera. Improve your preservative system. If photostability is a concern, replace Vit E acetate (it needs to be converted by your body into an active form, so it won’t protect your product) by a excited state quencher, your UVB protection is too low (if you add octocrylene, you’ll tackle that and protector Avobebzone from catalyic effects of uncoated TiO2). Also, use dispersión of both TiO2 and ZnO for better dispersion (better if you mix different particle sizes), and replace natural oils by esters which will provide better dispersion of inorganic filters andsprradability of the product on the skin.
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In their intensive itch they have their usual LGN (which also helps deposit silicones), but not in the second one. Now, dimethicone on its own can deposit to reduce free energy (although, not as much as with a deposition aid), at least the part that is not solubilized by the surfactant.
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That blue-ish hue is typical of microemulsions. There’s are different ways to produce a microemulsion, and the easiest is to use high levels of very specific surfactants, like Ecosurf SA-9.
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Threre’s something off there. If you check for instance the ingredients list for the twin bottles of itch relief, it’s different to the same list that is in Smart label. I’d check directly at the physical label.
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Not necessarily that it will reduce foam, but that it won’t foam as much as it should at some pH. You could do some Ross-Miles test of your formula at different pH to see the effect.
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Your assistant needs more training, hehe. I recommend you to check first how big brands formulate (check at their labels and patents), and then use databases like UL prospector where you might find formulas to help you know the adequate doses for each ingredient.
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In Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate, glyceryl stearate is a structuring agent and PEG-100 stearate is the emulsifier. Can you mention how much of emulsifier you are using or cosider as being too much? Keep in mind that when applied on the skin, it’s not the emulsifier alone that deposits but as being part of a structure.
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I still believe CAPB rules! Let me elaborate. The synergy you see when mixing amphoterics like CAPB with anionics such as SLES is mostly due to the quaternary amine present in CAPB (besides the hydrogen bonds from the amide group, of course), which is missing in CAM MEA. While CAM MEA could potentially have a positive charge in some conditions, that species is not very stable and it’ll prefer to have a neutral configuration. Because of that, CAPB is my dog (sorry about the slang!).
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Your concern is fair. Now, to my mind come some alternatives:
- silicones microemulsions
- hydrophobically modified PQ-10 (I’ve seen this material from Dow)
- Polyester-37 (Clarisilk), although this one can reduce viscosity
- Sokalan HP20, which can boost detergency and provide some conditioning due to its cationic nature…but can also decrease viscosity
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Having more emulsifier than needed is why the whole cosmetic emulsions are all about (you just need to make the calculations). Now, that’s actually good since the excess emulsifier makes the emulsion interface thicker and more stable. So, the high viscosity and better stability is actually due to the excess emulsifier (plus structuring agents, of course). What would be more interesting to know is how much is too much emulsifier. What’s your ratio of emulsifier to structuring agents (like fatty alcohols, glyceryl stearate, etc.)?
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Why do you compare different amounts of each ingredient (I assume is active máster, right?). While they both serie more or less a similar purpose, because of the difference in alkyl cain lenght, there might be some differences like CTA being better at controlling frizz while BTC might be better for dry softness, but being a little heavy on hair if you use too much.
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I remember making a microemulsion with Ecosurf SA-9 years ago, it was for a laundry detergent, but it might as well work for a cosmetic. I remember I used between 10-15% of the material for a similar amount of oil (I recommend working in percentages). I’d suggest starting with 5% and make some small additions till you see a blue-ish color and total clarity of your solution.
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If it’s a cosmetic product, I’d stay around a pH of 5. Heating would improve water quality (at high temperature), but some impurities are heat resistant. Adding an acid might neutralize the basic ones, but not all of the impurities are basic. Now, chances are you won’t have impurities in your product that could compromise health at the usual levels, but adding a chelant to prevent catalytic activity of some metal ions could be a good practice (which I’m sure you do).