ketchito
Forum Replies Created
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Cetearyl alcohol, stearic acid and BTMS could be impairing your SH performance. Try one sample without them.
And just as a reference, silicones are not biodegradable, but they do degrade (just not because of bugs).
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Carbopol 940 is equivalent to the 980, but it has some residual benzene that was used as solvent.
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I believe many of the ingredients in your formula are not necessary.
Imorganic salts (like NaCl) can actually increase viscosity in some emulsions, but for now, I’d skip it.
For hyperpigmentation in your formula, niacinamide is one of the few that have some solid studies behind, and perhaps tranexamic acid.
Glycols in high amounts would for sure impair your emulsion. I’d add not more than 4% of combined gllycols.
Now, you only have Stearic acid as your sole emulsifier, and not at a pH in which it’s all neutralized. If you don’t want to have a higher pH, then switch emulsifiers. You can use Arlacel 165 (or similar) at 4-5%, remove your Glyceryl stearate and increase your fatty alcohol also around 4%.
I never liked to use HEC in emulsions, but if you want a starch, use Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, which will also help stabilize the emulsion.
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The co-surfactant for sure impacts coacervate deposition and hence, oils deposition (like silicones). Now, without quantifying silicone deposition, it’s not possible to know if there was an improvement with one or the other material. Since CAPB improves the detergency of anionic surfactants more than Cocamide MEA, what your panel might be experiencing is a more pleasant sensation from the formula with Cocamide MEA due to less detergency.
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Unfortunately instead of cationic proteins, you have cationic peptides and other smaller molecules. I wouldn’t use them in a shampoo since few of those peptides have film forming capacity. I’d use them more (not cationic but normal hydrolyzed proteins) in a mask or leave-on product to allow difusion.
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Keep in mind that ChatGPT only has access to abstracts or open access journals, while leaving many out, so there’s some bias (access bias?) to its answer. I’d feel more comfortable checking EU opinión on the topic, or CIR review.
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Usually that yellowish color comes from some residual amines. You can try lowering the pH (make few samples decreasing the pH and compare them to see if it improves the color). Also, usually adding a dye solves the issue (I wouldn’t be so worried to have a yellowish tone before adding a dye).
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You can search in any of these books:
- Handook of cosmetic science and technology
- Handbook of green chemicals
- Handbook of cosmoceuticals and excipients
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You first mix, and then you reduce the pH, else, GHPTC would gel and won’t let you mix well.
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What exactly you’re searching for? There are different databases where you can find the stucture of all polyquaterniums registered.
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When adding phase B to phase A, you mention you mix until combined. Usually, an emulsion requires quite some energy (that’s why you mix like hell while keeping the temperature high for some minutes), to get the structure going. Once that’s done, you reduce mixing speed and start cooling down. Perhaps that’s the issue.
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As @Fedaro mentioned, you’re leaving out the best ingredients for your purpose. You could alternatively add Lamesoft PO 65, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate or a small amount of a cationic surfactant (there are ratios and types of cationics that can be added without trouble).
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In the first part of the premix, they want to GHPTC to be mixed without gelling, that’s why the high pH (I’ve seen that in a UL patent). I guess they add the silicone after so the coacervate is more homogenous in composition (but that’s a guess), and then they add the acid to make the gel.
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That formula I know almost by heart (why didn’t you ever want to hire me, P&G? hehehe). From the patents I’ve seen, they use Stearyl at 0.64% and Cetyl at 0.36%. Percentages could vary a bit, but in any case, I’d bet Stearyl is lower than 1%. For the SXS, keep in mind you have quite some electrolytes in that formula (your Na citrate-citric acid buffer, added NaCl, surfactant’s NaCl, Na benzoate, Na4 EDTA, etc.), so you need to prevent precipitation/solubility issues, and that’s where SXS comes in handy. They use a lot of it in their dishwashers as well.
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Are those ingredients the only ones in your formula? Where they completely dissolved at the start? What’s the pH of your solution?
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Bubbles happen probably due to CO2 production. You won’t have the same issue with HCl. Just keep in mind that neutralization is very exothermic, so better use very diluted solutions.
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Get rid of Aloe Vera. Improve your preservative system. If photostability is a concern, replace Vit E acetate (it needs to be converted by your body into an active form, so it won’t protect your product) by a excited state quencher, your UVB protection is too low (if you add octocrylene, you’ll tackle that and protector Avobebzone from catalyic effects of uncoated TiO2). Also, use dispersión of both TiO2 and ZnO for better dispersion (better if you mix different particle sizes), and replace natural oils by esters which will provide better dispersion of inorganic filters andsprradability of the product on the skin.
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In their intensive itch they have their usual LGN (which also helps deposit silicones), but not in the second one. Now, dimethicone on its own can deposit to reduce free energy (although, not as much as with a deposition aid), at least the part that is not solubilized by the surfactant.
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That blue-ish hue is typical of microemulsions. There’s are different ways to produce a microemulsion, and the easiest is to use high levels of very specific surfactants, like Ecosurf SA-9.
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Threre’s something off there. If you check for instance the ingredients list for the twin bottles of itch relief, it’s different to the same list that is in Smart label. I’d check directly at the physical label.
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Not necessarily that it will reduce foam, but that it won’t foam as much as it should at some pH. You could do some Ross-Miles test of your formula at different pH to see the effect.
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Your assistant needs more training, hehe. I recommend you to check first how big brands formulate (check at their labels and patents), and then use databases like UL prospector where you might find formulas to help you know the adequate doses for each ingredient.
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In Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate, glyceryl stearate is a structuring agent and PEG-100 stearate is the emulsifier. Can you mention how much of emulsifier you are using or cosider as being too much? Keep in mind that when applied on the skin, it’s not the emulsifier alone that deposits but as being part of a structure.
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I remember making a microemulsion with Ecosurf SA-9 years ago, it was for a laundry detergent, but it might as well work for a cosmetic. I remember I used between 10-15% of the material for a similar amount of oil (I recommend working in percentages). I’d suggest starting with 5% and make some small additions till you see a blue-ish color and total clarity of your solution.
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If it’s a cosmetic product, I’d stay around a pH of 5. Heating would improve water quality (at high temperature), but some impurities are heat resistant. Adding an acid might neutralize the basic ones, but not all of the impurities are basic. Now, chances are you won’t have impurities in your product that could compromise health at the usual levels, but adding a chelant to prevent catalytic activity of some metal ions could be a good practice (which I’m sure you do).