ketchito
Forum Replies Created
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For that, you’d need to add silicones. Are you ok with using silicones? They rule actually, hehe. If you’re not, there’s a modified version of PQ-10 which is hydrophobically modified, and that could help you on that (not at the level of silicones, but some). It’s called Ucar Extreme Polymer from Dow.
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Hi! Your formula could actually be more into budget (APG is quite expensive to be used as main surfactant). Also, why do you add so much GLDA? If you want not only chelation (you don’t need more than 0.1-0.2% -or 0.5% to be extremistic- as 100% active matter) but secondary detergency, then adding a citrate could be a cheaper option (there are few studies about similar combos).
Now, to your question, you could add a third component to prevent that from happening, so you have a more mixed micellar system: either CAPB or an amine oxide (they could even replace part of your APG). They both have higher interaction with SCS and might prevent what you’re experiencing.
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Then it’s your fatty alcohol. There are a couple ways to add them: either to make heat the whole batch untill you melt them, of mixing them with some water and surfactante as a premix. Which way you’re doing it?
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Just out of curiosity, are the particles jelly-like and spherical, or irregular, brittle and very white?
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You have too much EDTA (you can use half). Also, you have way too much Polyquaternium-10 (you can use 0.2-0.3%). Keep in mind that PQ-10 tends to bind strongly to hair and might be harder to completely remove it later, specially since you don’t have stronger surfactants like SLES.
I’d change your method to look like this: add your water to the main vessel, sprinkle EDTA with high mixing, sprinkle after the PQ-10 also with high mixing, add 2% of your betaine with low mixing, and after this, add all the anionic surfactants; add the rest of the betaine.
What preservative system are you using?
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You can add both polymers to the main batch at the start with high mixing speed (don’t add them to the water without mixing). No heating required.
About the paticles, are they on top or at the bottom of your product?
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At such high pH, there’s the chance that some FFAA from your natural oils might be neutralizing, contributing to the soaping. In your last attempt, since you remover coconut oil, soaping decreased. Try adding citric acid from the start so you have a final pH of 4-5, and also use n9 more than 0.5% of each natural oil/butter.
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You can cut both coconut oil and shea butter by half, and increase your dimethicone at 3%. Also, add some citric acid to adjust the pH (0.1-0.2), but do it right at the start (to the water phase, before anything else).
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I’m glad it worked. Good luck!🤓
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Are you sure it’s not the fragrance? 1% is quite some, and can produce turbidity.
Anyway, could you change the order of addition like this:
Water, EDTA, PQ-7, 1/4 of your CAPB, SCI, Sarcosinate (check here if the solution is clear), a premix of fragrance and the rest of CAPB, the rest of ingredients and Versathix.
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What is SQ-7?
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Glyceryl stearate itself is not an emulsifier but a structuring agent. The real emulsifier in the GMS SE is potassium stearate, but since you’re using it at low pH, you end up having 2 structuring agents. In your formula it can work because you have quite some ceteareth-20 and perhaps no (or very little) non polar oils.
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Hi Mike,
Actually, few allergens per each esential oil are identified; that’s why updated lists or allergens include more essential oils as allergens. You can check the updated list of 82 allergens from the EU here: https://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=celex%3A32023R1545
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The challenge being that many essential oils are known allergens, and it’s hard to find which compound or compounds are responsible, that’s why those essential oils are listed as allergens as whole. And while for synthetic fragrances it’s easier to tailor a fragrance with reduced (or no) levels of allergens, that’s not possible in the case of essential oils.
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The only thing that comes to mind so you can get a paste is to add solids in powder form (carbonato, sulfatos, etc)
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If the pH is around 9, then the Sulfonic acid is mostly neutralized, and you have a sulfonate instead, which is the actual detergent. Sulfonic acid has less surface activity hence is a poorer detergent.
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Then it doesn’t matter. The problem might be to have a cationic elulsifier.
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Which emulsifier is in your microemulsion?
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Even though it might help in processability (although the very use of excessive glycols softens the product forcing them to add glyceryl stearate), PPG and Glycerin will impair the product’s perormance, especially foam (flash foam is fundamental, especially if it’s a SH bar).
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That will never happen since CAPB has a quaternary amine with a permanent positive charge. That’s why it’s sometimes argued if CAPB is a real amphoteric or not.
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I think the first comment about the compatibility is for storage (since it’s an acid). But when you use it in a product, you need to neutralize it with a base to make a functional surfactant.
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Hi Mike,
Sorry for the late reply. Here are some references to illustrate my comment.
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Everything in the main tank, in the order I propose and without heating (you could heat if you want, but SCI mixes well without heating). Now, d-panthenol is water soluble, so it won’t do much in a cleanser that rinses-off. You could just drop it.
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I second @abdullah ‘s recommendation.
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Coacervates are neutral in nature, so I wouldn’t expect hairs to stick together because of the film. What you could experience is overdeposition, but that depends on your coacervate design and the performance of the shampoo to remove most of the coacervate deposited. You might benefit from this reading: https://www.amazon.com/Conditioning-Agents-Cosmetic-Science-Technology/dp/0824719212
