ketchito
Forum Replies Created
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Please, neutralize your Stearic acid so it can work as an emulsifier and not as a structuring agent)…that’s the first thing you need to fix.
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Glyceryl stearate is also a structuring agent, not a emulsifier. As @paprik mentioned, you need to neutralze your Stearic acido to make it work as an emulsifier.
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What are you “heat activating” and what temperature do you need to reach?
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There are clear cleansers with PQ-10 on the market. I also agree with SCI being responsible. Perhaps you could add some CAPB. Also, Glycerine is not needed in that formula and it will impair your foam.
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That’s when you don’t take your own experience as evidence. Usually formulas are tested with hundreds of consumers to really see the positive and negative aspects of the product (always compared to a benchmark).
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Have you seen a patento or paper on the topic? Acids can be irritating depending on the type, concentration and scalp state, so I don’t see how this can help with itchy scalp.
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Hi! Just a question, why do you mention that betaine (I assume CAPB) is questionable? Also, when you mention “companies” compared to hobbysts, which type of companies do you refer to? Big brands for sure have the highest safety standards for their products (they have the budget to pay for the many efficacy and safety tests that small companies -not to say hobbists- can’t afford).
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I’d follow what big brands are doing. They invest the most money on research and have the best scientist in the industry. And they are of course very evidence-based, so if they don’t rely on ingredients like frankincence is for a reason. I’ve just checked and the only studies I found about this material are mostly in vitro or mice studies. The human studies I found have been published in low impact factor journals, with many flags about their methodology.
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Thanks for sharing @philgeis. I didn’t know Dr. Steinberg was a co-founder. Do you know whay they are ending that program?
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That looks like a like conditioning leave-on. If you want a more detangling one, you might try an emulsion like It’s a 10, which is one of the best in the market: https://incidecoder.com/products/its-a-10-silk-express-miracle-silk-leave-in-spray
incidecoder.com
It's a 10 Silk Express Miracle Silk Leave-in Spray ingredients (Explained)
It's a 10 Silk Express Miracle Silk Leave-in Spray ingredients explained: Aqua (Water/Eau), Propylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Behentrimonium Chloride, Quaternium-80, Fragrance/Parfum, Panthenol, Hydrolyzed Silk, Morus Alba Leaf Extract, Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil, Linalool, Benzyl Salicylate, Limonene, Hydroxycitronellal, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, … Continue reading
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Olivem 3000 is not a powerful emulsifier (it has a low degree of ethoxylation). Also, propanediol might be impairing emulsion formation, so either remove it (and add your gum with high mixing directly to the water phase), or reduce it to 1%. You can check big brand’s to see what common emulsifiers they use.
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Which equipmente are you using to measure conditioning in your lab? Cationic polymers are kings to deliver softeness and frizz control in shampoos due to their coacervation properties. This has been tested many times. Cationic surfactants can also be a good addition if you’re able to form a gel phase and not a precipitate (in case you’re using an anionic surfactant). Emollients like peg-7 glyceryl cocoate could deliver some conditioning mainly in the presence of a coacervate that help them deposit. Lauryl glucoside is a surfactant, so I wouldn’t expect to compare to the conditioning agents in objective tests.
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Ascorbic acid is heat sensitive, so that might be the cause of your gass formation during stability. Not sure high T conditions are adequate for a heat sensitive material, buy you could try to prevent that with stabilizers, there are many patents attempting to stabilize ascorbic acid.
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Are you using Glyceryl stearate? Or Glyceryl stearate SE?
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Questions 1 and 2 have to do with pH. Your first solution that is only cloudy might also precipitate over time, or if you increase the pH to the level of your second solution. Keep in mind that the interaction of hard water ions and anionic surfactants is electrostatic, and thus has to do with pH.
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Hard to know if your just call them surfactants. If your powder surfactant is SCI and that’s what’s causing the issue, then adding CAPB can help melt and incorporate SCI better. You just need to find the best ratio so it doesn’t get too soft.
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If something is water soluble, unless it’s a big molecule (like a water soluble polymer which could actualy form a coacervate and deposit on hair), it will remain solvated by water and just remain like that (and of course, go down the drain) rather than interacting with your hair. If your product is a leave on, the story can be different.
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I asume both proteins are hydrolyzed. Can you check what’s the solvent? If they are both 1% solutions, I’d reduce them up to 0.1%.
Phenoxyethanol can also cause a viscosity drop, just in case.
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Would you share some literature that supports this?
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It’s one of the standards (you can go to Amazon and check the rating and comments). Now, when you mention that some of the ingredients can’t be used when you have some skin conditions, what is your source of information? did you check on the CIR or the Opinion from the SCCS for each ingredient to get to that conclusion? Please, don’t take it the wrong way…just want to know what are your sources since internet if full of sh….misinformation 🤓
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Check the pH of both solutions.
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Could you try with CAPB instead of Coco-betaine?
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This is also a wild guess (too wild maybe), but perhaps PQ-37 because it can attract water, it making you retain more water than usual and tha’s the smoke you see when blow drying. That water-holding capacity might also have something to do with your curls. And the high thickness, a mixture of high amounts of fatty alcohols and PQ-37. Maybe you could reduce both PQ-37 and cetearyl alcohol…like 0.35% of PQ-37 and 3.5% of Cetearyl alcohol ?
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Hi @paprik! I believe that’s your coco sulfate (kraft point issues). Would you do some test replacing it with SLES?
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It already comes in Arlacel 165.