ketchito
Forum Replies Created
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Don’t replace Cetyl alcohol (needed for lamellar structures). Perhaps you could actually remove Glyceryl stearate SE (potassium stearate is known for soaping) and increase your Glyceryl stearate & PEG-100 stearate…or replace Glyceryl stearate SE by Ceteareth-20.
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Always take the value in the middle (2.5%). Now, keep in mind that your active is not water soluble, so depending on the product you want to use it, it might not work for your purpose (actually, botanicals barely live up to the claims they are preceded by 🙂
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If you want a very light conditioning product, then that’s ok. You don’t have enolients though, so combing won’t be as easy, especially when hair is wet.
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Just as a note, fluoride reinforces teeth enamel to reduce abrasion, so none of those replacements are such thing.
Also, CAPB is a por foamer on its own; glucosides are better, but not at the level of sodium lauryl sulfate which is often used. Also, at that level of surfactan and with very large amounts of polyols, I don’t think your product would be a good cleanser. Check patents of big companies as reference.
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Even though Quaternium-87 would do the job also as an emulsifier, the cationic amine is sterically hindered. Can you switch to Behentrimonium chloride or methosulfate? Also, don’t use more than 2-2.5%. Also, HEC doesn’t help stabilize much since it doesn’t have mich surface activity. Could you replace it by <b style=”font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: var(-bb-body-text-color);”>Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate?
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As @chemicalmatt mentioned, CDEA will increase micelle formation. This will reduce charge density of your micelles, but only because you’ll have CDEA molecules between SLES molecules (mixed micelles) and larger micelle structures compared to SLES alone. To reduce charge itself, you could either use a more ethoxylated SLES (inductive effect), a lower solution pH to protonate your anionic, electrolytes, and a co-surfactant or any other molecule that could form hydrogen bonds with your sulfate.
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I would change the book 🤓
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Usually fragrances come with a fixative polymer and high molecular weight aromatic compounds to increase deposition. Now, you could add a cationic polymer to your formula (like guar HPTC) wich during washing will form a coacervate with your anionic surfactant and help deposit part of your fragrance.
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I’d test your base first without STPP or NaCl. You have quite some LABSA so you need toncheck first if it’s stable on its own. If it’s not, you need to replace part of it by SLES…or use a hydrotrope like SXS.
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Try your formula without STPP or NaCl. Sulfonates don’t like electrolytes very much.
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All the preservative systems you mentioned are weak, especially the last one. I’d check that first.
As for the smell issue, I’d reduce all the extracts to a claim leven (not more that 0.1%), to see if the problem is solved.
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Hi, I’m sorry. What are your issues exactly?
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Are you adding your dimethiconol as a gum or as an emulsion? In any case, you need a suspending agent that should give high shear resistance, like a carbomer or acrylates copolymers.
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I assume you have a stabilizing system for your enzymes (borate, glycerol, not high pH, mild chelant, etc.).
Now, SLES and CAPB have a synergistic effect on both detergency and foam, and that’s why they are used in different types of products around the world. SLES foams more and is more detersive than CAPB, which is usually added to boost SLES’s foam, make it more detersive (by forming more micelles) but also milder. If you remove SLES, CAPB won’t be so effective at cleaning; if you remove CAPB, your SLES would actually be harsher against your enzymes.
If you don’t want that much foam, you could do the following:
- reduce both SLES and CAPB but keeping the ratio
- replace part of the SLES by a fatty alcohol ethoxylate like laureth-9
- increase your glyrerol or PPG (which I assume you’re using to stabilize your enzymes)
- add an hydrotrope like SXS (they reduce foaming of anionics, although not dramatically)
- add a silicone antifoam for cleaning products
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For that, you’d need to add silicones. Are you ok with using silicones? They rule actually, hehe. If you’re not, there’s a modified version of PQ-10 which is hydrophobically modified, and that could help you on that (not at the level of silicones, but some). It’s called Ucar Extreme Polymer from Dow.
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Hi! Your formula could actually be more into budget (APG is quite expensive to be used as main surfactant). Also, why do you add so much GLDA? If you want not only chelation (you don’t need more than 0.1-0.2% -or 0.5% to be extremistic- as 100% active matter) but secondary detergency, then adding a citrate could be a cheaper option (there are few studies about similar combos).
Now, to your question, you could add a third component to prevent that from happening, so you have a more mixed micellar system: either CAPB or an amine oxide (they could even replace part of your APG). They both have higher interaction with SCS and might prevent what you’re experiencing.
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Then it’s your fatty alcohol. There are a couple ways to add them: either to make heat the whole batch untill you melt them, of mixing them with some water and surfactante as a premix. Which way you’re doing it?
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I understand now. That white residue is mostly your fatty alcohol. If you don’t want that residue (even if it’s temporary), then you could use rheology modifiers or polymeric emulsifiers instead of waxy structuring agents (like fatty alcohols of glyceryl stearate). Those emulsions will not have the same properties as the ones with structuring agents (like lower TEWL) but would aesthetically be more in line with what you want.
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After reading more comments in your thread, I need to ask what is it that you’re experiencing as soaping.
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You better not replace any part of your alcohol (needed for good and stable emulsion interface) by cetyl palmitate.
HLB is best applied to non ionic ethoxylated surfactants. In your Glyceryl stearate SE you have a structuring agent (Glyceryl stearate) and an anionic emulsifier (potassium stearate, which is actually a “soap”). Just replace the Glyceryl stearate SE by any of the sugestión I gave earlier.
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I believe standards that are used by regulators to evaluate “proper” preservation of cosmetics are really below the standards of big companies like P&G, who understood those standards do not adress the in-use risk. That’s why some products that pass those standards have to be later recalled do to contamination.
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Ok, but that’s if you have a suspending agent. If not, then something like PEG-12 dimethicone or a silicone microemulsion could be useful.
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For shampoos, I use either a dimethiconol emulsion (50 or 60%), and/or dimethicone (1000 cps+).
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I don’t remember what are the pKa values for CAPB, but if at that pH the molecule is neutral, going up in pH wouldn’t change its ionic state since it’s hard to remove an hydrogen from a methyl group, and it’s also harder to do that from an amide group (intramolecular stabilization).
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That will never happen since CAPB has a quaternary amine with a permanent positive charge. That’s why it’s sometimes argued if CAPB is a real amphoteric or not.