ketchito
Forum Replies Created
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I’d also would like to know what your emulsifier is (they vary in structure despite the HLB number). Also, I wouldn’t reduce your fatty alcohols (they are your structuring agents) but would use cetearyl alcohol at 4% instead (if you’re using the 50:50 version) and 2% of cetyl alcohol. Also, I’d reduce the shea butter to 2% (butters are hard to emulsify) and your CCT to 6%.
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@Aniela Your proposals are very real 😀
I especially liked the 1st one. Both bases because of the NaCl (and perhaps the glycosides) could have different micellar structures and therefore, might solubilize differently some fragrance components. Knowing that, perfumers use different chemicals accoding their partition coefficients to design a fragrance for a particular product (that’s not possible with an essential oil).
They other possibility is that the amine content in your PQ-7 could be interfering (or even reacting) with your fragrance.
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@mikethair Could you please show the part of the COA where they list the components of the fragrance/essential oil? Usually this is shown in a separate document (allergen declaration) where all allergens are listed with their concentration.
Also, how can you test all of them (keep in mind the list of allergens is now of 82)? They vary in nature and you require different protocols, chromatographic columns, stationary phases and solvents/solvent-mixtures? And of course, a MS which is very costly and hard to mantain.
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I wanted to ask you which type of experts you mean. Are they toxicologists, immunoilogists or cosmetic scientists? If you refer to dermatologists, well, you’ve seen in social media that they are not the real experts on that specific matter (many are biased and even paid)…perhaps dermatologists with research background and publications on peer-reviewed journals (most don’t have) could be trusted.
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It’s very candid to instead of a commercial fragrance for which you know the risky chemicals in it and their concentration (aka “allergens, which are detailed in the allergen declaration), you choose a distillate for which you have compounds whose identity is uncertain at all (like “compound MW=192”, “”compound MW=222”, “aromatic compound”, “compound MW=220”, etc.) or that you only know their chemical family (like “alkyl benzene”, “sesquiterpene”, “terpenic compound” or isomers without mentioning which one it is), for which there is no safety information. I mean….
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I’m glad to hear that, we’re all here to help. I never used sodium stearoyl lactylate in an emulsion, but what I’d do is increase your Emulsifying wax 1% more (keeping the Cetearyl alcohol you already have) and perhaps reducing the mineral oil a bit (non polar oils are hard to emulsify).
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Does your fragrance smell a bit like vanila? There might be an oxidation going on. You could add an antioxidant (BHT or Tinogard TL).
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What is LLP? How do you adjust your pH? Can you tell more about your manufacturing method?
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Gums tend not to let bubbles out, but if you do your emulsion at hight T (75-80°C), and then let naturally cool with slow mixing and no shear, that should be enough to let bubbles out.
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I’ve seen so many times separation issues of surfactant based formulas that have glucosides and gums. I’d replace Xanthan gum. If you have nothing to suspend, then rely on the power of mixing anionic-amphoteric-salt. You could alternatively add a fatty amide (like Cocamide DEA or similar).
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CAPB is one of the mildest avaliable surfactants. It can produce some skin issues to people with specific skin allergy to the ingredient, which is rare. To be safe, always formulate it along an anionic surfactant (wich will hinder both polar heads by forming a mixed micellar system) and at a low pH (which will neutralize amidoamines and other basic impurities, which can be present in traces). Also, regarding the safety of soaps, better take a look at the available evidence like this CIR review: cir-reports.cir-safety.org/view-attachment/?id=3a3ac6dd-8c74-ec11-8943-0022482f06a6. Our own experience is considered as anecdotal evidence, which is the lowest level of evidence possible. We always need to search for systematic reviews on the topic (like this one from CIR or the Opinions from the SCCs of the EU).
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No worries @nshu_14 . Usually, a base (like Sodium hydroxide) is added to the water phase. When you add the oil phase (where Stearic acid is) to the water phase, neutralization occurs.
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Please, neutralize your Stearic acid so it can work as an emulsifier and not as a structuring agent)…that’s the first thing you need to fix.
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Glyceryl stearate is also a structuring agent, not a emulsifier. As @paprik mentioned, you need to neutralze your Stearic acido to make it work as an emulsifier.
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What are you “heat activating” and what temperature do you need to reach?
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There are clear cleansers with PQ-10 on the market. I also agree with SCI being responsible. Perhaps you could add some CAPB. Also, Glycerine is not needed in that formula and it will impair your foam.
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That’s when you don’t take your own experience as evidence. Usually formulas are tested with hundreds of consumers to really see the positive and negative aspects of the product (always compared to a benchmark).
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Have you seen a patento or paper on the topic? Acids can be irritating depending on the type, concentration and scalp state, so I don’t see how this can help with itchy scalp.
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Hi! Just a question, why do you mention that betaine (I assume CAPB) is questionable? Also, when you mention “companies” compared to hobbysts, which type of companies do you refer to? Big brands for sure have the highest safety standards for their products (they have the budget to pay for the many efficacy and safety tests that small companies -not to say hobbists- can’t afford).
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I’d follow what big brands are doing. They invest the most money on research and have the best scientist in the industry. And they are of course very evidence-based, so if they don’t rely on ingredients like frankincence is for a reason. I’ve just checked and the only studies I found about this material are mostly in vitro or mice studies. The human studies I found have been published in low impact factor journals, with many flags about their methodology.
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Thanks for sharing @philgeis. I didn’t know Dr. Steinberg was a co-founder. Do you know whay they are ending that program?
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That looks like a like conditioning leave-on. If you want a more detangling one, you might try an emulsion like It’s a 10, which is one of the best in the market: https://incidecoder.com/products/its-a-10-silk-express-miracle-silk-leave-in-spray
incidecoder.com
It's a 10 Silk Express Miracle Silk Leave-in Spray ingredients (Explained)
It's a 10 Silk Express Miracle Silk Leave-in Spray ingredients explained: Aqua (Water/Eau), Propylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Behentrimonium Chloride, Quaternium-80, Fragrance/Parfum, Panthenol, Hydrolyzed Silk, Morus Alba Leaf Extract, Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil, Linalool, Benzyl Salicylate, Limonene, Hydroxycitronellal, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, … Continue reading
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Olivem 3000 is not a powerful emulsifier (it has a low degree of ethoxylation). Also, propanediol might be impairing emulsion formation, so either remove it (and add your gum with high mixing directly to the water phase), or reduce it to 1%. You can check big brand’s to see what common emulsifiers they use.
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Would you share some literature that supports this?
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It’s one of the standards (you can go to Amazon and check the rating and comments). Now, when you mention that some of the ingredients can’t be used when you have some skin conditions, what is your source of information? did you check on the CIR or the Opinion from the SCCS for each ingredient to get to that conclusion? Please, don’t take it the wrong way…just want to know what are your sources since internet if full of sh….misinformation 🤓