jennifer.olson
Forum Replies Created
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You should also use the right amount of tocopherols (see manufacturers recommendations-use the max) with all that natural mango butter. Do not use the acetate form of tocopherols it will not help with oxidation.
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You really are at the maximum input for the mango butter. I would suggest lowering it if stevia is not the culprit. Are you in a cold or hot environment? If freeze/thaw caused the ‘crystalization’ it is likely that mango butter is your culprit. Every time the mango butter melts and resolidifies the fatty acids will all solidify at different rates, thus what appears to be ‘grains’ or ‘crystals’
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Euxyl PE 9010 is one of my go to broad spectrum natural preservatives. The data sheet claims it is microbiome friendly. I have very sensitive skin and love it. Here is a study done in Japan that claims it is fine. Only sensitive skin individuals would have been accepted for a sensitivity study.
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Bonjour Hadylhgn,
Vous ne le saurez vraiment qu’une fois le tout assemblé. Ceci dit, il y a beaucoup de résine pour un produit à tenue légère. Consultez les recommandations de votre fournisseur et utilisez la dose la plus faible pour une tenue légère et la dose maximale pour une tenue maximale.
L’ajout d’humectants attirera l’humidité et risque de gâcher votre coiffure finale. On trouve facilement des carbomères : Carbapol 940 ou 980, Ultrez 10 ou 21.
Certains formulateurs aiment ajouter jusqu’à 10 % d’éthanol dans les gels coiffants pour accélérer le séchage, mais s’il s’agit d’un produit à séchage humide, ce n’est probablement pas nécessaire.
Je n’utiliserais pas d’EDTA, car ce n’est pas un tensioactif (savon) et l’eau distillée devrait suffire.
Pour ce qui est du conservateur, j’utiliserais un mélange testé comme les mélanges Germaben (sans parabènes) ou Euxyl (formules naturelles) plutôt que de tout réinventer. Cela vous évitera à long terme des tests de provocation avant la mise sur le marché. Bonne chance !
Jen Olson – formulatrice et chimiste cosmétique (google translate)
Hi Hadylhgn,
You won’t really know until you put it all together. Having said that, this is a lot of resin for a light hold product. Check out your supplier recommendations and use the low end for light hold and the max for max hold.
Adding humectants will attract moisture and may ruin your final style. Easy to find carbomers… Carbapol 940 or 980, Ultrez 10 or 21.
Some formulators like to add up to 10% ethanol in styling gels to help the product dry more quickly but if this is a wet style product it likely is not necessary.
I would not use EDTA as this is not a surfactant system (soap) and using distilled water should be fine.
As for a preservative system I would use a tested blend such as the Germaben blends (safe parabens) or Euxyl blends (natural formulas) rather than reinventing the wheel. It should save you more in the long run in challenge testing before you get to market.
Good luck!
Jen Olson - formulator and cosmetic chemist
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TEGO CARE PBS 6 MB is a perfect nonionic emulsifier to pair with Olivem1000 if you are creating a oil in water emulsion such as a cream with added electrolytes. You NEED a nonionic emulsifier to pair with Olivem 1000 as it is Anionic and the nonionic emulsifer will add mildness. It should also help with excess rub in time that Olivem1000 tends to create (soaping effect). If you experience excess rub in time using Span 60 at less than 2% (or another low hlb waxy nonionic emulsifier) can help eliminate that problem. With emulsions you also should use a gum or polymer to add stability.
You CANNOT use it alone to create a stable emulsion. Over time it will likely separate. Try testing this doing a freeze/thaw test for at LEAST 5 days. If it shows signs of separation, reformulate.
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Just make sure you use mixed tocopherols or similar. Vitamin E Acetate will do nothing to stop oxidation.
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I am preparing to take my final exam in the cosmetic chemistry degree program at the Institute of Personal Care Science.
Each and every class along the way has been as challenging as any of my university couses taken on my way to obtain my BSc.
I was able to work at my own pace and all the tutors were very helpful. Tasmin, Marica and Diane were always helpful as I sometimes struggled with concepts. The lectures by Belinda were brilliant. I was able to watch and learn as many times as needed as she guided me through the program.
Belinda also designed the Create cosmetics program. I highly recommend that every cosmetic and skincare DIYer get a yearly subscription as it is affordable and will save you hundreds of dollars in mistakes.
I highly recommend the degree program over the independent study (you can upgrade). Feedback from a qualified cosmetic chemist is invaluable.
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Although some sodium hyaluronate can thicken a product, it is not a stable rheology modifier. Choose a gum or polymer instead for long term stability.
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It sounds like you want to learn advanced cosmetic chemistry techniques. You should take Perrys course on Beginning Cosmetic Formulation. I would suggest you also enroll at the Institute of Personal Care Science. I have finished the program here but Belinda courses and chemistry degree program will give you the foundational skills to competently formulate from scratch for companies and always get good results.
2 in 1 products really only work for people with short hair who shampoo frequently. Compare your product to the leading brand out there. Note: most consumers love bubbles and judge effective cleaning by the bubbles, your target market may be limited.
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It sounds like you want to learn advanced cosmetic chemistry techniques. You should take Perrys course on Beginning Cosmetic Formulation. I would suggest you also enroll at the Institute of Personal Care Science. I have finished the program here but Belinda courses and chemistry degree program will give you the foundational skills to competently formulate from scratch for companies and always get good results.
From the information you have provided it sounds like you should be using a build with more lipids with more spread (emollient esters, silicones). If you have a lot of powders you need to also look at your stabilizers (gums, polymers).
Since you are a beginner, I would contact the pigment supplier and see if they have any sample formulas to begin your foundational work if you do not want to take courses.
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Have a look here. https://patents.google.com/patent/WO2016071878A1/en
patents.google.com
WO2016071878A1 - Vanishing cream compositions and uses thereof - Google Patents
The present invention concerns a composition comprising at least one aqueous phase and at least one oily phase, wherein said composition comprises: - i) at least 4% by weight of solid particles, preferably selected from the group consisting of: solid … Continue reading
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From my historical research on vanishing creams, the main ingredient is not oil but stearic acid. Sodium stearate is formed during processing using a strong alkali. The Indian brand Vicco Turmeric and older Ponds formulations use this method. It is intended for oily skin type and ‘vanishes’ unlike oil based creams. It should have a naturally pearlized look due to the high ratios of stearic acid. <div>
Your formulation is more of a o/w cream and the lipids you have chosen are the most likely reason for the skin feel. Humectants also add tack so perhaps you would improve the sensory feel by reducing the glycerin.
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