

hollis-whyte
Forum Replies Created
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I love it with Vanilla Absolute (of course), Coffee Arabica and Black Cherry!
Thanks for your email, I will respond later today (UK time).
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It’s one of my top choices as well Mike, it’s so smooth.
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In brief, it appears to me that you have rather a large oil phase with no primary emulsifier and not enough Xanthan Gum. I’m not a qualified Chemist yet though so lets see what the professionals say…
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hollis-whyte
MemberMarch 23, 2025 at 11:45 pm in reply to: Seeking business partner for a high-end skincare brandHi, I’m also interested and will email you both tomorrow.
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No, it’s water soluble. Look for Vegemoist in the States or find it on the other site I mentioned. Good luck with your experiments!
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It’s true. The cuticle swells and lifts up because the humectant properties from the glycerin draw the surrounding humidity in. Betaine counteracts this and is superb IMO in shampoo at 3-5%. Try including Betaine at the different amounts with glycerin and then without and see what you think. By the way, check out Alexmo for the Ceramides NP. Hope this helps!
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You really need B3 to be at 4.5-5% for it to be efficacious and solubilized in 5% glycol (I like Pentylene glycol) and as others have mentioned H20 is a must. Have you tried Ethylated Ascorbic Acid? That is also oil soluble as is Ubiquinone. If you make an emulsion try adding Alpha Arbutin at 2% with the B3, it works very well on PIHP.
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This reply was modified 1 week, 6 days ago by
hollis-whyte.
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Also 3-5% Ascorbyl palmitate is oil soluble and I would say more effective than Niacinamide/B3.
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This reply was modified 1 week, 6 days ago by
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I would leave glycerin out unless you add Betaine (vegemoist) as it causes the hair cuticles to stand up making hair look and feel frizzy.
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Ceramide NP is available at a various wholesalers in Europe for $6.
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Very informative, many thanks!
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What alternatives would you recommend Dr, Pratt? I like to use Caprylyl capryate or C12-15 AB in thin viscosity moisturisers but not shampoo bars because it’s too drying. Would Squalane/Hemi Squalane be substantial enough? On a different note, were you on The Eco Well podcast with Jen? Perhaps I saw you in interview on You Tube?
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Hi again, sorry but I’m not familiar with this material.
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Glad it helped! How’s it all going?
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I find selecting a primary emulsifier and co-emulsifier can be a challenge in itself, there are so many on the market. It’s probably best therefore to research them yourself so you get the right one for your needs (unless you neutralize the stearic acid as suggested)! On a different note, I usually keep clear of natural gums and prefer acrylate polymers but perhaps I was always using too much which was where I was going wrong. We have both learned something from your post and from Ketchiko and Paprik’s advice - many thanks to them!
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Hi, may I ask if this the same for Stearic Acid SE please?
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Hi again, how’s your lotion going with the Chemist’s insights? If it’s of help, I usually use 0.2% fragrance if the product is to go on the face, neck and chest because of regulations in my country.
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I was given this info by a Trichologist & Derm. I loosely tested the theory by myself and found there to be some truth to it. I will see if I can find anything on pubmed etc.