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I believe that was k700 the cause of the reaction. PE9010 never gave any reaction to all my customers so far. Ultrez 10 neutralized with NaOH to final pH 5.3 - 5.5. I will re-formulate the lotion with PE9010 (I used k700, thinking that is more water soluble, so fits better with the thin lotion). Lotion is at the development stage not in market.

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I found that the lotion has a different old batch of carbomer than the cream. Is it to blame? - can’t believe it (I remember it didn’t hydrated very well). Lotion is a simple formula with 5% oils (1% shea), less than 0.5% orange oil+fragrance, pe9010… wait! oh yes! now I see in my paper that lotion has euxyl k700, not pe9010 that has the cream! Sorry! So it’s potassium sorbate to blame I think… Maybe it was not an allergy but rather stinging/burning from pot. sorbate…

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Thanks, Micro. She had tried the cream a few days before and everything was o.k. Yesterday she tried the lotion and had the reaction. And also today we checked it again. I will re-formulate a batch.

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Thanks Microformulation for your response. I was present and there was not any obvious signs like redness or itch, only intense stinging and numbness of tongue in a generally not allergic woman. Call it inflamation, any idea about the cause? It’s hard to think that I made something wrong when prepared the lotion.

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For example, I made 2 simple olive oil lip balms. One with tocopherol and the other without. After about 1 year, that without toco gained a rather unpleasant weak smell. The olive oil was extra virgin, but if it was not, maybe it would had gained the smell in less than a year.

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Actually it’s about liquid soap only.

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Thanks. There is a patent from 2005:  http://www.google.com/patents/EP1600496A1?cl=en  but trehalose is still not widely known.

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Olus oil

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It is its neutral pH that leaves this effect and not the “squeaky” clean sense of the ordinary alkaline soaps.

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30 patients from total 11842 is a small percentage, I think.:

Contact Dermatitis. 2014 Mar;70(3):175-82. doi: 10.1111/cod.12154.
Allergic contact dermatitis caused by alkyl glucosides.

Gijbels D¹, Timmermans A, Serrano P, Verreycken E, Goossens A.

Abstract

BACKGROUND:

Alkyl glucosides
were not expected to have a sensitizing potential at the concentrations
to be used in finished consumer products; however, several contact
allergy cases have been published.

OBJECTIVES:

To report on the patients suffering from allergic contact dermatitis caused by alkyl glucosides observed in our department.

PATIENTS/METHODS:

During a 19-year period (1993-2012), 11 842 patients with suspected contact dermatitis
were patch tested with the European baseline series and, if relevant,
also with other series and individual allergens. For this study, the
clinical data and the sensitization sources in the alkyl
glucoside-positive patients were analysed.

RESULTS:

In total, 30 patients (24 women and 6 men) presented with a positive reaction to one or more alkyl glucosides.
The causal products were shampoos (in 12), skin-cleansing products (in
12, among which were wipes for intimate hygiene), sunscreen products (in
5), skin-care products (in 4), and a deodorant (in 1). Sixteen patients
showed multiple sensitivities (defined as three or more contact
allergies), not only to other glucosides, but also to non-related chemicals.

CONCLUSIONS:

Allergic contact dermatitis caused by alkyl glucosides
in cosmetics does occur, and might be more frequent than suspected. In
view of their common use, their identification as allergenic culprits is
important.

© 2014 John Wiley & Sons A/S. Published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.

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http://thebeautybrains.com/2014/02/is-sulfate-free-shampoo-better-for-color-treated-hair/

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Bobzchemist, thank you for your thoughts.

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My 85% SCI melts easily in water at about 50-60° C. SCI / stearic mix is used at syndet soaps usually.

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Everything that can save time to our work is desirable (either machines or raw materials).
Thanks for your answers.

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Yes of course, you need to prove they are safe  and yet maybe to present data, that they could be beneficial and effective as cosmetic ingredients.

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“… put Marketing considerations over Product Safety.”
Great point Perry!

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http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/regulatory/reach/17385739.html

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Thanks ZenTheDog for the link!
There are interesting comments at the bottom of the page.

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It seems to be this Blanova Muls Eco 77. Relatively unknown…
Thank you!
^^

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Some essential oils may separate in the freezer. Just put them in refrigerator.

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In fact, olive oil may worsens the existing dandruff, but does not cause it. Even oleic acid can induce the problem only in dandruff-prone individuals. A comprehensive review:
http://cmr.asm.org/content/25/1/106.full
https://microbewiki.kenyon.edu/index.php/Malassezia_and_Human_Skin_Diseases

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Web is full of olive oil remedies to treat dry scalp and dandruff. BUT:
http://archpedi.jamanetwork.com/article.aspx?articleid=1308503

I put 0.1% olive oil in my shampoo only for label appeal, due to I am living in an olive oil production region.

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1000 euro for the complete safety report including dermatological, challenge, stability tests, toxicological profile, plus the cost of the assessor (about 200+ euro each one).

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That’s true, unfortunately. You may need over 1000 euro for a complete safety assessment on one product. So many small companies sell their products illegally, or don’t have complete regulation.

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Look at pdf’s page 21:
http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUriServ.do?uri=OJ:L:2009:342:0059:0209:en:PDF
Also you must confirm PAO (period after opening) with stability test.