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Thanks @MarkBroussard very helpful as always. I’ve read derm articles stating lactic acid at 10% can be considered a superficial ‘peel’ (pH not mentioned but i’m guessing below 3.5). Is a product marketed as a ‘peel’ considered a cosmetic (if it stays within the 10% AHA range and @pH3.5 or higher)?

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@chemicalmatt @Trytryagain thanks both, appreciate your responses

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Thanks Perry. I tried Isoamyl Laurate and Caprylic/Capryc Triglycerides in place of plant oils and it wasn’t perfect either.

I hear ya, want to give up on the whole ‘plant derived’ malarkey and get playing with some ‘good’ ingredients! ????

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Thanks Catherine. Unfortunately pH would still need to be low enough for acid efficacy which would negate the need for clays (and a very difficult formulation to preserve and stabilize I would imagine?).

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Thank you, will look into them. There’s a subsection of ‘peels’ out there above 10% that can be used at home (eg Paula’s Choice 25%AHA @pH3.5-3.9), I’m assuming these are drug approved, and FDA considers safe enough to be used unsupervised. The research continues.. thanks for your input mark, much appreciated.

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Noted, thanks Mark. Do you know if multiple products (when sold as a kit), can contain AHA’s exceeding TOTAL 10% when added together? It’s worded “<strong style=”font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: var(-bb-body-text-color);”>are safe for use in cosmetic products at concentrations ≤10%” so its not clear if they are referring to per/product concentration or per/total application (eg-in the instance where multiple products in a kit are used as one treatment system). FDA info is pretty minimal and I couldn’t find anything on the full CIR safety report. Thanks much, appreciate any thoughts

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My thoughts too.. after the initial success and cult following of the first 20 years I would presume it was a downward trajectory. It’s actually taken long enough to get to the current state which is a testament to the brand Anita built. When I think body shop I don’t think new and current, its something from the early 2000’s and they never really kept up with the market dilution of explosion of new brands with the same ethos. And inevitable demise when L’oreal took over, you can’t mix major brand animal-testing scenario with The Body Shop, it doesn’t quite work.

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Good point ???? I think they are using the Glyceryl Stearate (SE) as the emulsifier? Although i’m aware it’s more for W/O emulsions. And cetearyl as co-emulsifier/thickener. I have seen similar recipes in several other natural creams (combination of glyceryl stearate with cetearyl or cetyl alcohol only, nothing else), and they all seem to work in a similar fashion - same consistency, skin feel, etc. I’ve had this particular bottle for over 2 years and its still beautiful and creamy, no separation or growths. Is this possible??

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Perhaps the portion of aloe vera juice (instead of all water), acts as a buffer for the soaping, and/or contributes to partially thickening, therefore reducing the amount of cetearyl alcohol required?

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Thanks @Graillotion I shall try that.

The simplest formula I found was: Water, Aloe Vera Juice, Sweet Almond Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Shea Butter, Glyceryl Monostearate, Glycerin, Coconut Oil, Xanthan Gum, Extracts and EO’s, tocopherol, preservative.

There is very minimal soaping in this product (almost none) and feels nice and creamy and ‘glidy’ when rubbed in, without being too oily. I’m questioning how they achieved this given the ingredients. Perhaps I havent struck that elusive ratio yet!

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Thanks mark. When I compare samples against popular cult brands with seemingly innocent plant derived ingredient lists it does baffle me how they’re able to achieve such high functioning products. Especially when I’m using the exact same ingredients. Would this have to do with the manufacturing process and state of the art equipment they have at their disposal, or ‘something else’. I have a chemistry background so I’m not new to experimenting and understanding ingredients, but I’m wet behind the ears when it comes to beauty formulating and how the industry operates as a whole, which will only come through experience I suppose.