EVchem
Forum Replies Created
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I wish there were more proponents of “admitting failures” in all scientific fields. I get the financially-driven reasons to keep negative findings quiet, but ultimately reporting conditions that didn’t produce intended results could save time and money. And as @Perry mentions, one study doesn’t make anything conclusive, positive results or not. One of our core beliefs as scientists is in reproducibility and that should apply in all cases. Always disappoints me when personal gain wins out over progress and learning for science as a whole, but c’est la vie or whatever.
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source here
If your product is suffering from grainy, hard white spots this is due to the butters and waxes containing varying amounts of fatty acids which have different melting and solidification points. Melting does not therefore happen at a single point as different components solidify/crystallize at different temperatures. Unless there is provided a uniform temperature throughout the whole, some ingredients crystallize and cause graininess or grittiness resulting in white hard spots throughout the product. A controlled cool down and stirring during the cool down stage can help avoid graininess in balms and butters. This is known as “tempering” and is often used in chocolate making. The process of tempering involves melting the product completely, (i.e. to 70°C) and then pouring it into the container and placing into a fridge or freezer (or in manufacturing, a “cooling tunnel”) to speed up cooling. Another method to reduce graininess is to use the Lipex range by the supplier AAK AB and microcrystalline wax instead of natural waxes. The suppliers of Softisan® 378 (INCI Name, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride) also claim their ingredient when incorporated into a formulation will reduce graininess. -
What percent are you planning on using? If you’re using if to mix blush are you going to try and evaporate the ethanol off?
Is it safe? you could slap a high proof vodka on your skin as a test.
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haven’t had a chance to use this yet but polyisobutene1200 (INCI hydrogenated polyisobutene). I got it from making cosmetics. It claims mineral oil substitute and improved spreadability, but that’s up to you to interpret
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maybe a small amount of acesulfame potassium ? Peppermint oil usually contains menthol (source is the same patent you’re reading) so are you sure 2% isn’t too much?
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Well you could start by looking through this thread
but you should probably give more information anyway: do you have formulas developed, where are you located, what order size are you initially considering, what kind of packaging are you interested in. Most companies will have their own suggestions for you once you provide some insight into the goal/audience of your line -
Yes you can get from schülke if you contact the distributor for your region you can get help much faster
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Does anyone know how the process works to get on Happi’s directory? Is there any cost to register?
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@bilalhazk I doubt this is the case but by “tea” do you mean TEA (triethanolamine)? to neutralize your carbomer?
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I think @Sibech is exactly right:
As for the validity, it can say if your serum can keep apples from browning and that is about all.Also consider that apple tissue is going to be water-based, so a water-soluble ingredient would penetrate for any kind of reaction better than oil-soluble ones. Apple tissue is not like human skin, potency of a serum will ultimately come down to how the human body processes it right?
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So you want alternatives that are cheaper? Honestly those aren’t (in my experience) expensive raw materials, and they can get much cheaper the more you are willing to buy in bulk.
Where are you located? That’s also going to determine which suppliers you can use -
kojic acid is prone to discoloration over time. We use it cold process, but looks like you are heating so you may be speeding up the oxidation? What temperature do you go to?
Of course it could be another ingredient as your culprit. Knockout test would probably be helpful for any suspects, I would say start with the Kojic acid though
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biotin
Copper Tripeptide-1
and plenty of pre-mixed trademark products. A quick search on UL prospector brings up plenty of options -
Wow good to know. I hadn’t been on that site before but it seemed fine for their MCT description. The paper they cite disproves their own point…never a good look
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MCT (Medium Chain Triglycerides) is a ratio of caprylic and capric triglycerides. Different companies will have different production methods and therefore different ratios. Some companies are kind enough to tell you what the ratio is (ex. Jedwards sells 60/40 MCT so 60 C-8 40 C-10). I think it would be very expensive/difficult to separate those two kinds of chains because chemically they aren’t very different.
Why do you want to use “true” fractionated coconut oil?
Here’s a quick article that lacks sources but provides a good description of MCT vs fractionated coconut oil
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I think that depends on where you plan on getting the DI water from/ size of your operation. Are you going to buy it from the grocery store? Are you going to order cation and anion tanks and deionize the water in-house?
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Liquid Germall has consumer concerns, but not because of efficacy. It is a pretty robust preservative. Pomades are typically very waxy, and liquid germall goes into the water-phase. It would only be protecting whatever water is used in the formula
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The carbomer thickens with the addition of base so in theory you can use anythings with high pH right. I’ve used sodium hydroxide before, not sure if that’s a preferred method but it certainly works. Sodium lactate is a weaker base than TEA so you might have to use quite a bit more to get to your desired thickness
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I’ve used Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate at 20% before and I’ve also had an issue with stickyness. That’s a lot of bulk material to try and get into water. If you can cut down, you should (it’s stable from what I’ve seen but I don’t advise it because I noticed an unpleasant smell). You could also try triethyl citrate as I’ve heard that can help cut down on tacky feeling.
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Here’s the highlights from what I found on a CA gov site
“Proposition 65 requires businesses to notify Californians about significant amounts of chemicals in the products they purchase, in their homes or workplaces, or that are released into the environment”
“OEHHA has developed safe harbor levels. A business has “safe harbor” from Proposition 65 warning requirements or discharge prohibitions if exposure to a chemical occurs at or below these levels. These safe harbor levels consist of No Significant Risk Levels for chemicals listed as causing cancer and Maximum Allowable Dose Levels for chemicals listed as causing birth defects or other reproductive harm. OEHHA has established over 300 safe harbor levels to date and continues to develop more levels for listed chemicals”I would highly suggest reading this site for the full details.
The SDS for the material would have a listing of all chemicals included, though it might not mention chemicals used in processing or exact amounts.
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You will have significant problems with oxidation and discoloration, especially depending on the forms of vitamin A and C you use and if you’re making something water-based. The kojic acid also causes a yellowing over time, just so you’re aware.
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Yeah that’s true. I guess I was hoping to find out what role the copolymer could play in exacerbating the oxidation
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Even with such small amounts? It showed an extreme change in color, from a near pure white to a very tan brown (From what I’ve seen with ascorbic before, the oxidation is usually more of a yellowing in color). My other concern with the thickener is that I made up a base with water, ferulic, and ascorbic acid and tried several different thickeners. The one that contained the acrylamide copolymer broke down and turned the darkest by a large degree compared to the others.