[emma1985]

Unfortunately it’s expensive.

[emma1985]

Dimethyl Isosorbide is my ABSOLUTE favorite penetration enhancer. In my experience it works an absolute charm with water soluble ingredients (I use it with Niacinamide, Arbutin, NAG, Licorice.)

[emma1985]

I always mix humectants as well ???? Usually 3 in each formulation. What about trehalose? Has anyone used it?

[emma1985]

Thank you!! I absolutely love Sodium Lactate but I can’t use it with certain things (namely Aristoflex, because it doesn’t work with electrolytes/salts.)

I also purchased some Sorbitol so we will see how that goes. 

Besides Sodium Lactate I’m a fan of Propanediol and Glycerin ????????

I’m on a big humectant kick right now.

How much of the Betaine do you use?

[emma1985]

ngarayeva001 said:

Have not tried it myself but I like this supplier. Use google chrome translate function. They ship internationally https://www.glamourcosmetics.it/gb/xylitol

Thank you so much! So you’ve used the Betaine? It dissolves readily?

[emma1985]

Aren’t cosmetic ingredients unregulated, as  well? Or, under-regulated? I want to try it for hydration. Along with xylitol. And I have the same question regarding xylitol as well (where can I get it? I have some that I use for artificial sweetener. Can I just use that?)

Actually some supplement companies have third party testing done on all of their products.

Pharma, how much do you use in your formulations?

I already use Glycerin and Propanediol in everything but I want to diversify. 

[emma1985]

I agree with you czkld, but it’s a nice oil serum regardless of the fact that it doesn’t have the optimal ratio. In fact I’m not entirely convinced that this magical ratio exists or that it’s very important.

[emma1985]

Thank you SO much for sharing your thoughts on Saccharide Isomerate. It’s not exactly inexpensive so I’ll pass for now.

So far my favorites are Propanediol and Sodium Lactate. Both are non sticky, especially Propanediol. Actually Propanediol has an almost emollient feel. And I find it extremely effective as a humectant.

I’m also a fan of Amino Acid blends, such as the one sold by Formulator Sample Shop.

I’m buying some Hyaluronic Acid right now. Going to make a 1% solution. I’ve found that in prepared products, Hyaluronic Acid is way too sticky for me. So I’m going to try it alongside some ingredients known to detackify - Propanediol and dimethicone, and use it in small concentrations.

I’m also trying Honeyquat and hydrolyzed proteins to see how they compare.

[emma1985]

Tocopherol is oil soluble. It will not solubilize in Propanediol. Ferulic Acid is a very insoluble ingredient so it too will likely not incorporate. You have to dissolve it in ethanol first.

I’m not sure how The Ordinary incorporates Ferulic Acid in a Propanediol base. 

You don’t have to worry about pH since it’s anhydrous.

In my experience water based Ascorbic Acid is much much more effective.

[emma1985]

Thank you so much for your help!!

[emma1985]

Okay what about 10% Cetyl Alcohol, 50% THD, 39.5% Squalane and 0.1% Vitamin E?

After some discussions on Facebook this is what I’ve simplified to..

Is 10% Cetyl Alcohol enough to add some solidity?

It doesn’t have to be rock hard. Soft Vaseline is what I’m trying to achieve. 

[emma1985]

Thank you Driftmark!

Yes I went through countless bottles of Liquid Gold. Thank you for sharing the recipe. 

By the way I’m having some really good luck with pseudoceramides! Actually I find them more reparative. My understanding is that it’s because they can be used in higher concentrations. I’m using Curel Intensive Moisture Cream, which contains pseudoceramides in third place. I highly recommend it! ????

[emma1985]

hanbit said:

hanbit said:

@ngarayeva001I noticed that you’re a big fan of sodium lactate (saw you mentioned it several times in another thread). I tried adding 3% of sodium lactate to my emulsion, and it doesn’t smell great (sea salt + stale smell combined, I’m not great at describing smell though, but it is not a pleasant smell). The scent did go away after a minute or so but i’m wondering is there a way to mask of the scent without using any fragrances. What is your experiences though?

I did like the way it felt on my skin. And i tried it plain as well, and it definitely surpass glycerin and other glycols in terms of skin feel and moisture. It felt very hydrating without any tackiness (but smells awful)

Are you using powder Sodium Lactate or liquid?

[emma1985]

Even if SK INFLUX is 5% of my overall formulation? I read that the SK INFLUX complex is comprised of 50% ceramides. That would give me 2.5% total ceramides. It’s for myself for now.

[emma1985]

The Isntree Green Tea Toner does contain a lot of green tea as evidenced by the dark brown color of the product.

But yes, the term “extract” is pretty meaningless. You could have a 1% extract in 99% water, use 90% of it in a product, and the ingredients list would list the extract in the first place, even though there’s  lessthan 1% of the actual extract. 

[emma1985]

Thank you so much by the way.

[emma1985]

The problem is when SK INFLUX is added to the cool down phase, it reduces viscosity drastically.

I’m using Emulsifying Wax NF and Cetyl Alcohol.

What if I incorporate into my water phase but only heat to 130F? Would that work? Or is that still too hot for SK INFLUX?