

Doreen
Forum Replies Created
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I had redness with 0.2% potassium sorbate.
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The only oil soluble anti inflammatory ingredients I know are botanical extracts, like bisabolol and stearyl glycyrrhetinate and they indeed aren’t exactly cheap.
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I think the 1% line is before the fragrance, around the almond protein.
In general: spot the claims ingredients/pricey ingredients, e.g. Q10 (ubiquinone), argan oil etc, they’re bound to be (way) behind the 1% line.
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Doreen
MemberApril 7, 2018 at 7:56 am in reply to: Clay mask question please: does this formula require a preservative (no water, yes oils & honey)@”DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ”
Thanks a lot!! :+1: -
:joy:
I agree with @Belassi. I don’t think there’s reason to add more than 0.1% for marketing claims.
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@”DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ” @DAS @Microformulation
Thanks a lot for your answers!
I totally agree with you. In a time where we are supposed to save energy instead of waste it, I think it’s useless and also time consuming.
I got confused because it is still advised on the new Making Skincare site for microbial reasons.So the original purpose was post-emulsification heating for emulsion stability for some emulsifiers like non-ionics. Makes a lot more sense.
Erratum (in first post): instead of ‘both phases’, I meant the water phase only.
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@Bill_Toge
Ok, thanks for explaining!
Is it true that you need more, like 0.2% for SA not to bind with contaminants like iron, or would 0.1% be sufficient? My SA supplier gave me this advice and I don’t know it it’s accurate. -
:joy:
And please continue doing so! Love it! :+1: -
I also put it in the heated water phase at 0.1%, glad to read that’s ok.
The advice of Making Skincare however is 0.2%, so I understand it can be confusing. (below ‘Factors which greatly impact the effectiveness of your chosen preservative system’).
@Bill_Toge @Perry I do use 0.2% diNa EDTA in a toner with 2% salicylic acid, would that be too much also? (to prevent SA from binding with iron that is maybe present as contaminant) -
@”DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ”
May I ask you what phase you would suggest? Thanks a lot in advance! -
Doreen
MemberApril 4, 2018 at 1:12 pm in reply to: Clay mask question please: does this formula require a preservative (no water, yes oils & honey)I read that Phenonip should be divided over both phases (e.g. 0.5% in water and 0.5% in oil phase).
I’ve also read that because of the amphiphilic character of phenoxyethanol it’s better for the stability of the emulsion to put the Phenonip in the cool down.@”DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ”
What is your opinion on this?Edit: I see the formula doesn’t have a water phase. :smirk:
I still would like to know Dr. Bob’s opinion though. -
I use hydrogenated vegetable oil mostly as an oil thickener or stabiliser in emulsions. Right now I have Viscolid of Dr. Straetmans.
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They mention it seperately because one of them is just castor oil, which is liquid and the other one is hydrogenated and a wax/castor wax (but not a polyethylene glycol derivative like PEG 40 HCO).
(There’s PEG 40 HCO (hydrogenated castor oil) and also PEG 40 castor oil by the way.)With ‘petroleum’ you mean either ‘petroleum jelly’ or ‘petrolatum’.
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My ‘home lab’ has two closets with the raw ingredients, the emballage, beakers etc and safety stuff, like dust masks, goggles, apron etc. all labeled + a storage for the jerry cans of distilled water.
A huge stainless steel table with my three scales, milligram scale, gram and kilogram scale. And two simple bottle warmers for au bain marie heating of the phases (they can hold a 250 ml beaker, the volume that I use the most). I don’t have a overhead mixer yet, so everything else is in the closets, pH meter etc. There’s also a metal rack on the table where I place the glasswork to dry when it’s clean. Behind the closets I have a small model dishwasher which is only used for ‘lab dishes’.
I have no rugs, carpeting or unnecessary items to minimize particles in the air.
And a huge 2 by 2 wall canvas of Mendeleev’s Periodic Table of Elements. -
What kind of active do you use? I use alum (potassium aluminum sulphate) which is very easy to get (here) and is very cheap. Not everyone can stand the acidity, but it works great for me, very efficient! A lot more efficient than aerosols with aluminum salts.
It’s a very basic cream, I use Sepimax Zen as a thickener, which has a high tolerance for electrolytes and can deal with a low pH. But I’m sure a gum like xanthan could work as well. -
Doreen
MemberMarch 29, 2018 at 6:46 am in reply to: How to thicken a lotion without it feeling waxyJust to add my 2 cents, these sites have been very helpful to me when I started:
http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.nl/2010/01/if-youre-new-to-lotion-making.html
http://makingskincare.com/how-to-formulate-like-a-pro/
and two documents about some emulsifiers and their HLB value
(here you see cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol aren’t emulsifiers, the second document shows the HLB value that these fatty alcohols (and other lipids) require) -
@dharmaraj
This site may be very helpful for you: http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.nl/2010/01/if-youre-new-to-lotion-making.html
It has lots of beginner formulations.Good luck!
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@DAS
Ok, thanks for the tip.With purified water I meant sterilised and filtered water (no pyrogens, suitable for injections).
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@Perry
Ok, thanks!@DAS
I use it for all my water containing formulas and to prepare buffer solution for the pH meter.
I never boil the water nor do I heat & hold. Do you? -
You mean the pH of your NaOH dilution or your product is above 7? Have you measured it exactly?
And what are your preservatives? -
Please read the forum rules in this thread: https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/1070/rules-for-requesting-formulating-advice-help
1) Do not request complete/finished formulations.
The best way to get help on this forum is to show that you actually need help and are not trying to use us to do work for you. With that, if you have an existing formula that isn’t working out, post it and ask for some feedback on your problem. If you don’t have a formula, do some research and try to come up with one yourself first. If it doesn’t work out, then ask for help or feedback.