Christopher
Forum Replies Created
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pH is only applicable if the product contains water and I assume pressed powder doesn’t contain any water.
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Wouldn’t ethanol as a preservative kill the foam?
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Theres also Aroma-Zone but you’ll need google translate to use their page unless you speak french.
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try adding it just before pouring then.
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Signed up the minute I got the email.
I also submitted a question, probably too long to be answered on the webinar but if you could shoot me a reply via email I’d really appreciate it. -
@Bill_Toge Unfortunately it always happens. I’ve tried several self-emulsifying systems like BTMS-50, Simulgreen 18-2, lesser known ones, and also made my own by doing HLB calculation. Fortunately I’ve gotten some good advice now that will hopefully fix it.
@Microformulation I have C12-15 alkyl benzoate on hand so I will definitely experiment with that to see if it helps. On LotionCrafter they say “[it] provides creams with an excellent spreadability with no soapy effect” which is the reason I bought it, but I guess it depends on the formula.
Getting newer and fancy emulsifiers is tricky seeing as I’m just doing this as a hobby and not affiliated with any company. But I do have Emulsifying Wax (Cetearyl alcohol and Polysorbate 60) at my disposal so maybe that will work better.@Belassi I don’t have pure cetearyl alcohol but I do have cetyl alcohol so that might work!
@DRBOB@VERDIENT.BIZ very interesting. It appears that most people don’t mind dimethicone if the sensorials are satisfying. I have dimethicone handy so I will try that too.
@MarkBroussard have you worked with RitaMulse alone? If so, how does it compare to Olivem 1000?
Thank you all for the great advices, it looks like I’ll have plenty of things to experiment with, just hope there are enough hours in the day! :#
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Thank you for your suggestion DrBob. I don’t mind using silicones in my formulas but they shouldn’t be necessary in order to receive a quick rub-in time. So I’m curious why the glyceryl stearate didn’t fix it.
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Thank you for all the replies. It looks like I’ll have to keep searching for a more suitable emulsifier.
@naturalchemist I’m weary of trying Olivem 1000 because I’ve heard conflicting reports regarding the soaping effect. Even though it’s advertised as being free of the whitening effect, I’ve seen a lot of formulators having trouble with it. There’s even a thread here where the formulator is having the same issues and is advised to add dimethicone.
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Yeah, I’m planning on doing that next with hydroxyethylcellulose. They don’t specifically say that (unless I missed it) but I can see that they use a stabilizer in most (if not all) of their sample formulas.
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@Perry There’s the soapnut tree though :p
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Thought I’d come back and give an update:
It appears @johnb was correct that N-acetylglucosamine was the culprit. After making the formula again without NAG, it is still the same color after being stored for 2 months. -
@Perry yeah, the airless container is opaque, but not the plastic jar. Both were stored in a cabinet however and not in any direct light.
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@Bobzchemist according to various studies on hyperpigmentation, that’s the % they generally use.
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@johnb thank you, I will perform a knock out test and see if N-acetylglucosamine is the problem. Will also record the pH. Thank you!
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Where would I source Sodium Citrate and Methyl Gluceth-20 Benzoate? I don’t own a company so ordering a sample from manufacturers websites won’t work.
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I can confirm that dimethicone will reduce the soaping effect. I’ve made
a similar formula with and without 2 % dimethicone and latter one did
not rub in white.@chemicalmatt: Really? I’ve had the exact opposite experience. If I don’t include cetyl alcohol or stearic acid there’s no soaping effect.
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Thanks bob.
You’re right matt! Cheap is good! -
@Microformulation: unfortunately that didn’t work either.
@Bobzchemist: thank you for your insight Robert! I’ll try this once I get a hold of a proper mixer. -
@Microformulation: I did that a couple of times, but when water was added the oil mixture stuck to the stirrer and wouldn’t dissolve. I’ll give it a few more attempts. Maybe apply heat while premixing them together?
@johnb: Yeah, seems like polysorbates are a pain to work with. In an emulsion system however they are easy to incorporate.Guess I’ll try to get a hold of PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil like both of you suggested. It seems to be the gold standard for solubilizing oils into water.
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Hey johnb, thanks for swift reply.
The oil I’m using is sweet almond oil, and the only other solubilizer I’ve tried is poly20 which produced the exact same results.
I don’t really have a purpose for the product other than experimentation. I have this other product where poly80 is supposed to solubilize 1 % tocopherol but it failed. So I thought I’d see if the same thing would happen with 1 % sweet almond oil. -
Most of the formulas I see that are advertised as oil free refer to vegetable oils.
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I think you’re better off using multiple solvents instead of just one. I can’t tell you exactly how much PG you need for 1g of SA, but I’ve had success with dissolving 10 % SA in 75 % 1,3-propanediol and 15 % PG. Heating will probably be necessary. You would then add the remaining ingredients.
But like everyone else here said, be careful! -
Yeah, I’ll keep observing.
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Sorry for the late reply, I totally forgot about this topic. I tend to read through the posts without logging in and mine must’ve been way in the back.
Thanks for your replies guys, I will definitely keep them in mind for the future.
But it looks like things solved themselves. I tried the exact same recipe again with a different method and, to my surprise, it worked. The only difference this time around was that I took my time stirring and heating between each ingredient. It is now 24 hours later and everything’s still dissolved. I even lowered the pH without anything settling out. -
@ Mark: I totally agree, just wanted to point out that there are some people that use the combination.
@ Belassi: It can also decrease TEWL and regulate sebum production