[Chemist77]

@Robert I guess your second theory applies here, would try the coated one and see if it holds the viscosity. Thanks again for your valuable input.

[Chemist77]

@Robert no its a normal grade without any coating. I suspected ceteareth-20 but even after complete elimination its the same.

[Chemist77]

Wow meaning I am going back to the impure form  and complaining about the viscosity drop-down. I suppose your statement amounts to what I understood. 

[Chemist77]

@vitalys & Bobzchemist wow what wonderful explanations!!!

[Chemist77]

Thanks, that takes the load off, otherwise I would feel guilty about my testing

[Chemist77]

I remember once making a gel with xanthan gum and DHA. Have to use around 5% active for a week’s effect. I cant recollect all of it but there was a lotion and gel both. The results were good too.

[Chemist77]

But isn’t that too long a time keeping in view all the launch pressures and all? I mean when you say 45C, that means the study is being done at elevated temperature and which generally would be above normal, so is it not possible to shorten the time or 6 month study is considered as the standard period?

[Chemist77]

And just the EO and water or any other component as well?

[Chemist77]

What percentage you intend to use?

[Chemist77]

According to the marketing gimmicks your previous brand of cream too could count as some pollutant, you never know

[Chemist77]

But 6 months???????

[Chemist77]

Without knowing your formulation I can suggest you some extra thickener like carbomer or xanthan or any other commonly used thickener. Depends which essential oil you are using, also if you dont need additional thickener then you have to choose the right emulsifier, probably the one you have chosen cannot handle your essential oil. Try increasing or replacing with something stronger.Also what kind of application properties you are looking for, heavy, light or medium. You need a cream, lotion or gel like consistency.

[Chemist77]

I think you can start by at least letting us know the final product function.
@MakingSkincare Although on first look it looks understandable that he has some unused emulsifier but still I feel it could be from anything from the actives too. I mean 50% (that too no mention of the properties of the actives) is way too much and it can swing the properties to any extent. I might be wrong as well.

[Chemist77]

First of all please clarify what kind of actives you have used, whether they are oil soluble or water soluble, in powder form or liquid solution. Without this information any suggestion or comment would be utterly useless and trashable.

[Chemist77]

@Mark In our old threads I read somewhere that apart from the ‘natural standards’ issue there was this efficacy issue as well. IIRC (learnt it from Duncan to concise everything) tetrasodium salt has to be used above pH 7 and disodium salt below pH 7. Could you please correct me if i am wrong??? Secondly, are there similar issue with sodium phytate too?????

[Chemist77]

So basically citric acid can be used which is freely available and freely soluble instead of lactic acid. Though as I see it that Lactic acid brings in more shine and pomp to the ingredient list. 

[Chemist77]

@alchemist Excellent point

[Chemist77]

Think either they have omitted something critical or as Robert generally says it is not a complete ing list. If the product is hazy and thick then they have simply suspended them into silicone gel.

[Chemist77]

@Perry Good one

[Chemist77]

Except that Lactic acid molecule is smaller than Citric acid, I cant think of anything special. Though I hope that the mentors and experts can elucidate this point of yours. 

[Chemist77]

@ChemWizard Surface potential has been explained by alchemist and IIRC is short for If I Remember Correctly, hope that makes life a bit easier 

[Chemist77]

Great one Ben, thanks once agsin for a perfect 10.

[Chemist77]

It is an o/w emulsion, and its a very poor formula as well. It has cetostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate SE, mineral oil, isopropyl palmitate, ceteareth-20, colorants, preservative, walnut shells. Do you think it is an anionic emulsion?

[Chemist77]

That means any ingredient with a charge in emulsion would render the emulsion anionic or cationic depending on the nature of ingredient.

[Chemist77]

Guess thats the best one, try to finalize the base and once you are satisfied then try adding the active. Would indicate you a stage by stage process and if there is a problem you would know where you are faulting with the formula.