[Chemist77]

@David Silicones are notorious for build-up and hard to remove even with repeated shampooing, case in point Amodimethicone. I would stick to PQ-10 but on a lower side, if not then I would use a combo of long chain conditioners like the one @nasrins has used with a disteardimonium chloride or stearamidopropyl dimethylamine for deep conditioning. 

But I would make sure this is not for virgin hair as the studies show that the deposition on treated hair is more than the virgin hair because of higher negative charges, in fact it is double. 

[Chemist77]

Well if you have a tube then follow Belassi’s suggestion and see if you need to go down or up on the fatty alcohol. 

[Chemist77]

Generally deep (intense conditioners are commonly seen as thick creams having a viscosity of around (4000-12000 cps), with all due respect to @Belassi I would start with 6% fatty alcohol here, 1% glycerin, 2% Behentrimonium Chloride, 0.5-1% PQ 10, 1% HWP and rest of the things as required. It has to be left on hair longer than compared to normal rinse off conditioner though. 

[Chemist77]

@Eli That’s a good question and since it’s a urea derivative I am guessing it would impart some moisturization also. But again it depends on the formula compatibility and its killer properties

[Chemist77]

@Iaskedbetter

I think you have to mix the residue solids in a pre-weighed quantity of volatile solvent, filter out the undissolved part and leave the volatile solvent open to evaporate. Check how much time it takes for the solvent to evaporate completely and weigh the remaining part. It would give you an idea about NON-VOLATILE oils in the emulsion. 

@Bobzchemist Any further modifications/inputs on above??????

[Chemist77]

I would opt the later to start with.

[Chemist77]

Always a pleasure to read your comments @chemicalmatt, great insight. Priceless.

[Chemist77]

But I never heard the water molecules penetrating the lipid layer of skin????? Of course until and unless you have a specialty formula for penetration with a carrier/penetration enhancer.

[Chemist77]

I think glycerin is a good choice for high humidity conditions whereas in low humidity conditions it might draw the water from skin and there comes into play the best occlusive moisturizer known to us aka petrolatum. A balanced combination might prevent glycerin from drawing the moisture from deeper dermis while the petrolatum would act as a barrier to minimize the TEWL. But again it is appropriate for sort of dry conditions IMHO.
Hope someone can explain it better.

[Chemist77]

A good concoction of Omega oils (EPO and to some extent sunflower oil) and anti-oxidants to minimize the oxidation of highly unsaturated oils (EOP and sunflower oil both). As for the claims I suppose ‘you don’t need a mirror to see the ornaments on your hand’.

[Chemist77]

The ingredient you have mentioned could be replaced any similar kind of ethoxylated light feel ester oil, as it is quite obvious that everything in your formula fits fine except the oil part (C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate). 

Or try tweaking it by increasing the AWS and bringing down the alkyl benzoate and see how it works out. 

[Chemist77]

@yongnn30 Yup you are bang on money, its a very old solvent but very known one.

[Chemist77]

@yongnn30 Yup you are bang on money, its a very old solvent but very known one.

[Chemist77]

@Belassi

http://www.gattefosse.com/en/applications/?administration-route,topical,solubilizers-skin-penetration-enhancers

[Chemist77]

Nothing is secret anymore, it is because they are probably banned for personal care use and as @Bobzchemist perfectly mentioned ‘wool dyes’. 

[Chemist77]

You are bang on money here @Bobzchemist, I have had few samples form China through a customer and he requested the shampoo which could dye beard and hair in 5 minutes. Honestly I excused myself as it is pretty much like living on the edge. 

[Chemist77]

I am a layman when it comes to such products but the link below might come handy to you

http://www.drugstore.com/dark-and-natural-5-minute-permanent-hair-color-natural-black/qxp56387

[Chemist77]

I am saying that the material is supplied as 30% TS, you can start from 3% and see how it holds up and see if you need to go further up.

[Chemist77]

@Belassi is right, 940 is a big no and but Aqua SF-1 might work for you. Generally it is a 30% TS dispersion and you can process it at room temperature. Although I use it for my back-acid thickening products and its fab. 

@yongnn30 Carbomer 980 is just another grade of 940 which is Benzene free and it is also going to fail in such soap emulsions just like carbomer 940. 

[Chemist77]

There sure is e.g. KOH, NaOH and anything which can neutralize (alkaline hydrolysis) the stearic acid in the formula, but make sure you check the SAP values for these. 

[Chemist77]

Try Synthalen W400 from 3V Sigma. 

[Chemist77]

You have an anionic cocktail and then you add something cationic, it is BOUND to happen.

[Chemist77]

You could add a little dimethicone to reduce the whitening during the application. 

[Chemist77]

Great, I would try to find out that tiny amount with my own experimentation, but at least it reduces the number of ingredients and can be handy if time is a constraint. 

[Chemist77]

@Rencelj 

Without delving deep any further I suggest you just increase the stearic acid and eliminate beeswax. Start in increments and I am sure you would end up with a favorable viscosity as well as the pH.