[chemicalmatt]

2 fl.oz. (60 ml) for US$5.00/lb is still a blatant rip-off.  Argan is less than US$24/kg in commercial quantities. These websites selling cosmetic ingredients to D.I.Y folks - and there are many well-regarded ones mentioned in this blogosphere - should all be ashamed of themselves.  (On the other hand: wish I’d though of it.)

[chemicalmatt]

You are correct 77.  For further research, check out gemini surfactants, sometimes truncated to “gem surfactants”.  These lower the CMC - big time - and give more bang for the buck. If you are formulating a stain remover though, Chirag, I’d strongly suggest the use of enzymes, at least one or two.

[chemicalmatt]

brain, there’s too much ground to cover here in your inquiry, so I’ll suggest more research into surfactant chemistry. Check out the Allured index for some cues.  Having said that , the amphoterics you mention are best used as hydrotropes, not thickeners or “mildness agents”. Hydrotropes keep other materials in harmony with water and polyols. In this fashion, CAPB performs just the same, if not slightly better, in acidic media as in alkaline; though as a surfactant but maybe not as a foaming agent.(Never confuse the two)  Amphos improve viscosity only when used in synergy with anionics and/or builders.  Being zwitterionic, they will behave more like soaps in the alkaline range, more like inert oils (for lack of a better word) in the acid range - thus your foaming difference. As for alternatives to amphos…best start a new thread on that one and follow it.  I don’t have the time here. 

[chemicalmatt]

Good thing you have propylene glycol in there (aka “propanediol”) else this would be one sticky mess. In fact it may still be one - is this the case mello?
Also, whassup with the creatine (sic “creating”)?

[chemicalmatt]

StepanMild GCC worked well for me, its EO-free and it comes from Stepan at much lower cost than any other non-EO thickeners and many with EO. It does have limitations with the APGs, just like every other thickener out there that is neither a saccharide gum or mineral colloid.

[chemicalmatt]

amdanish, is there a pearling agent in your formula? EGDS? EGMS? Euperlan? If so you might be kicking it out.  Polox polymer thickeners are compatible with just about everything, so it is likely another ingredient interaction.

[chemicalmatt]

Better yet: drop the SLS altogether.Cationic polymer coacervation is better served with SLES as the anionic workhorse, maintaining a solids ratio of 1.5: 1 or so with the amphos and amides combined.  You will experience less hair loss and better conditioning (the two are related right?). Only thing is your foam may not be as rich as before - no big deal if you ask me.

[chemicalmatt]

Did they object the sarcasm or the to the diluent idea? They may have not comprehended the first.

[chemicalmatt]

Boy, hard to believe Amerchol got it wrong, which would NOT have happened a few years later when Union Carbide acquired them and they would have met the master of cationic polymer coacervation: Des Goddard. I refer to the order of addition here. Barrow, always disperse the Polyquat-10 into your water first, THEN always add the amphoteric next  - CAPB in your case, though the disodium cocoamphodiacetate mentioned in the Amerchol lit works far better as a hydrotrope. Then add SLES, SLS, whatever anionic you may wish to have in there.  Though 0.50% JR-400 might seem high for normal 2-in-1 conditioning shampoos, I’ve made ones for the ethnic hair-care market with much more than that. BTW, for a neat trick, add 1.0% sodium DDBSA to a gel made with 1.0% JR-30000. The coacervate gel you obtain is so dense it can be thrown around like a tennis ball.

[chemicalmatt]

There are brands promoting this additive for teeth whitening. Without looking into patents, I’m thinking the ingredient to use wouldn’t be H2O2 itself, but a precursor such as (coated) potassium percarbonate, which would activate to peroxide once diluted enough with water.  That would have to be the thing, else you would need that low pH Bill speaks of, which would not fly for reasons stated.

[chemicalmatt]

This sounds like a job for…wait for it…FINSOLV TN (C12-15 alkyl benzoate).  Miscible with cyclomethicone,most alkyl esters, isododecane and mineral oil. This may bridge your incompatibility problem if added to/with your essential oils - along with that order of addition Bob refers to (always important!) As I have said so many times before: what CAN’T Finsolv TN do?

[chemicalmatt]

If you are only using it as an alkali neutralizer for carbomers, acrylate thickeners, etc., then any alkali other than DEA is OK (for the nitrosamine precursor reason David stated.) If you are saponifying fatty acids, though, it will make a large difference in the texture outcome of , say, a shaving cream. 

[chemicalmatt]

Thanks folks, no need to Google this or that:our firm is named Paket Corporation and may be located at http://www.paketcorp.com.  Please excuse our currently lame website that doesn’t mention chemical compounding (or even a chemist!) also. This page is under revision. You may also contact me at sales@paketcorp.com. As Perry so thoughtfully stated, sample packets of the form/fill/seal type (pouches, sachets, wipes even) are what we do better than virtually everyone.

[chemicalmatt]

I’ll echo David’s advice and add another: be clear about order of addition.  I always draft my compounder processing instructions with “Add - in order - Items #3, #4,…”  This can prevent a lot of quality issues whenever this is critical.

[chemicalmatt]

Oils crash viscosity all the time, especially terpenes, which I’m guessing are present in those essentials. You’ll need a different builder to hold this up, likely a cellulosic gum.  Borax, SLS, Cocamide DEA, Germall? Very cool, I like it when folks formulate “old school”.  Keep it up, JD, just don’t sell it in California.

[chemicalmatt]

Belassi, I didn’t know glycerrizhic acid was keratolytic.  Or is it the ammonium salt that is? Wonder what the activity is relative to thiols? I’ll be interested in your results.

[chemicalmatt]

As so often the case, the answer is: it depends.  Only you know the colloidal and rheological properties of your ingredient formulation YQ1, so you will need to determine the sheer-stress allowance.  Just shooting from the hip here (and I am a Silverson guy), if this pup is rolling at 1750 rpm, which is standard, and is a fixed (in-tank not in-line) device, use the 4blade + rotor with the normal slot stator for general use. Keep the stator static, change the rotor to achieve better results, starting with the 6 blade then the toothed, which is useful for chunkier solids like kaolin.

[chemicalmatt]

What Bill said - plus, BrO3- will not go to its highest oxidation state readily, since IT is being reduced.  I suggest concentrating on your concentration carefully with this system.  Any excess bromate can cause drying, shedding and damage to the just-relaxed hair, so keep it to a minimum. Its only a little better than peroxide, not a lot.

[chemicalmatt]

Quats work best with cyclomethicone and virtually all other silicones. Try behenyl quats first, and you don’t need much. 

[chemicalmatt]

Great idea, Belassi!

[chemicalmatt]

I would break out Functional from Aesthetic, as laskedbetter describes, too.  Within that subcategory would be “Rheology modifiers”, and even “Flow modifiers” (not the same as “thickeners” where tribology is concerned). Within Aesthetic, I would add the sub-category “Sensory modifiers” i.e. skin sensation modifiers, as many esters and starches will do for the product. I only perused this briefly. I’m sure if I study it more the more I’ll find, but that may be overthinking it too. Cool, Perry.

[chemicalmatt]

I just spent over an hour on the EWG site looking up “rated” ingredients to satisfy a client’s requirements.  Now I want to puke. I mean it, I really want to hurl chunks after reading all the crap that organization is serving up.

[chemicalmatt]

The former Scher Chemical Company, founded by Stephen Scher, once had the best array of esters in the marketplace - those Schercomols you mention. They are now part of the Noveon - Lubrizol empire. Picking a favorite would be very hard. Depends on application and play-time. My go-to all-around workhorse ester is isononyl isononanoate, which I believe Lubrizol (Scher) offers. Side-note: Scher also had some very unique quats, as I recall. Check those out if you have the time.

[chemicalmatt]

IF your mouthwash has 13% or more ethanol, (SDA 38C if memory serves is the one with thymol and spearmint suitable for dentrifices), then you don’t need to worry about a preservative all. Likewise, if your “gum gel” has lidocaine HCl and oxiquinoline sulfate or pramoxine HCl as the old-school ones had, no preservative needed either.

[chemicalmatt]

Anna, none of the esters mentioned will reduce the “soaping” effect you observed - not by much anyway. Olivem 1000 lends just a little, but the EGDS you’ve added to your formula, or another stearate or laurate ester, is the likely culprit. Solution is quite simple: add cetyl alcohol, even 0.50% can cut down that soaping effect dramatically. Kudos for using my favorite ester C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate in your product.  As I’ve said on this blog before: what can’t Finsolv TN do?