chemicalmatt
Forum Replies Created
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For 99.9% of formulations distilled works just as well as deionized. In fact for 90% of formulations good quality tap water (like Chicago’s) works fine. Just add a little Na4EDTA and get on with your day.
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Negative on the humectancy. Positive on the lack of tack. Stick with the greater ratio glycerin I mentioned and add another mufta of PG.
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I have never been able to use these emulsifiers by themselves - no matter what the suppliers claim. However I was able to build viscosity and some elegance with the usual liquid crystal combo of cetyl alcohol/glyceryl monostearate as lewhitak has done, but required much higher amounts than that. Regardless, these fall way short of the utility afforded by the ethoxylated nonionics, but they are here to stay as EO gets phased into the corner of our tool set.
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Looks like you have every pre- and pro- biotic under the sun in there, so I sure hope this works. Certainly will be expensive. Silver citrate should be compatible, so you may lose the Leucidal. The use of dimethyl isosorbide as a penetration aid comes up all the time in this forum: it is largely for use with lipid elements, and you have none in here unless that amber thingy is an oil. Lose it.
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Dimati: glycerin is the humectant, propylene glycol is added (1:4) along with glycerin to mitigate it’s tackiness. Unless tackiness is your goal - and some edge gels need that attribute - then use both.
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Get rid of salicylic acid - problem with cloudy/tacky solved. You don’t need it anyway of skin lightening is your goal. Adding C12-15 alkyl benzoate will solvate SalAc in this too if you just gotta’ have it. To add suspension properties to a lipid system you may want to explore hydrated silicas, like the Aerosil & Sipernat line from Evonik. EV makes a good suggestion too: mix up your triglyceride oils to change the polarity around a bit.
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Some insights here, rookie driftmark: your emulsification system includes cholesterol, and at 0.20% that is plenty emulsifier along with the two surfactants. HLB figures around 7 - 8 if I did the math right, so you are getting a stable product, no? Not sure what that CA-20 is (INCI ???). Germaben II is MUCH better than Optiphen, so go ahead with that sub. (Ashland peeps may not like hearing that but what can they say?). You have too much of nearly everything in here, so tone this down. It appears to me somebody was trying to sell HYA and ceramides, likewise sea buckthorn anything, and that niacinamide content will give people the red face flush for sure. Cut all those things by half - at minimum - including tocopherol, panthenol, glucosamine. Add a little cetyl alcohol (1.0%) for stability, consistency and opacity. Also, do not heat up ceramides past 55C, unless it comes from another planet. Finally we do NOT call these compounds recipes - never - we call them FORMULATIONS. Recipes you can eat, right? Cheers.
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With low Aw and high pH you may get away with it, and saponification products ala Dr. Mike’s usually meet those parameters, but I don’t advise it. A little Kathon never hurt anybody, and I mean anybody.
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Easiest trick in the book is to disperse hydroxymethyl cellulose resin (Methocel from DOW) first (0.50%) then add surfactants, and less of that CAPB. The Methocel will keep the foam from collapse.
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Should not need one at that pH and Aw, but one of the acids e.g. benzoic, sorbic, undecylenic would be appropriate. As for the smell, lactates can smell wonky after a spell, kind of like sweat. Just a hunch, not a certainty. That green tea may not be acid stable also.
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Add a polymeric film-former (best) or add lanolin itself (why use a substitute?) to extend into a film.
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Not one ingredient but several. Two anionic surfactants plus one amphoteric surfactant, depending on mass ratios, will make a viscous solution. Beef that up with Polyquat-10 and you build more. Finally adding electrolytes (sodium citrate/citric acid) and it builds even more. Glycerin beats it back down.
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GCC does not contribute any yield value so it will not suspend anything unfortunately; a misnomer by Stepan. However, it works really well as a surfactant builder for viscosity as you found out plus it is an excellent solvent as well. I built a nifty graffiti remover with it a few years back. (And, no, I do not work for Stepan, but Perry and I do know some fine chemists here in Chicago who do.)
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With those styrene/acrylates I remember somewhere in the past that a little fatty alkyl amine added will raise the Tg, make film harder, less tack, more gloss and more water resistant. Cannot remember which one to use though. I’m thinking C16 or higher, maybe even an alkyl amidoamine.
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I second what EV said: caustic soda is manufactured annually in the millions of metric tons and one of least expensive chemicals on the planet. Just source & buy. Easy.
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Bioscreen Testing Services in SoCal.
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This should help: https://www.indco.com/
Pyrex is same as Kimax and get those anywhere, like VWR (Fisher) or Qorpak. -
Isothiazolinones…BIT in the parlance of the HI&I world…at 0.10%. Done. Also, double that EDTA unless you wash dishes in the woods, then triple it.
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That is not pure lecithin but the typical 55% dispersion in soybean oil, so your activity level is less, and this should be a 2-phase procedure not a one-pot. Double it and add your oil to that (you have a o/w emulsion here) at 80C, then slowly add to the water phase. IF you can live with a little high fructose corn syrup or just sucrose or another saccharide to your water phase, that will help matters along. Like Pharma said: not all lecithins are the same. The phosphatidyl choline: phosphatidyl serine content makes a HUGE difference and I think that website source is unaware of that. (They are also marking that product up by 400% more than commercial.) As for preservation: have you tried adding vodka?
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I have a much simpler explanation than all of these, Katerina: they simply left the borax off the INCI listing, knowing sodium borate might be objectionable in certain circles. Omissions like these are not uncommon especially when you have direct sales involved. Add a little borax and viola’: Blandcream. (I would have loved to be in that market team meeting when that product title was decided on … difficult holding laughter back)
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Pesticides are an EPA thing not an FDA thing, unless you get into pediculosis, so you are both correct. You will need to get an EPA establishment# and an EPA company# to get into manufacturing and production. Not too difficult.
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Omit the candelilla and this would have a longer thermocline for thickening. Also, candelilla has tendency to “kernel out” (crystalize) when cooling unless it has supporting esters along with it. Any good reason to have it in there?
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“Principles of Polymer Science and Technology in Cosmetics and Personal Care”, ed. by Des Goddard and Jim Gruber. If everyone studied that book this forum would be a lot quieter every day.That and Milt Rosen’s texts on surfactant chemistry.
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I’ll second @ngarayeva001, but add for your benefit: you have too much going on in there for a skin toner. This formula chassis is overpopulated. In skin-care formulation often less is more.
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Mark has a good point and I’ll welcome you to the Contract Manufacturing Vortex from which I have yet to emerge after 30+ years.