chemicalmatt
Forum Replies Created
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Depends on your chosen medium @tecnico3vinia. Using BHT, I use a very rough measure of 0.10% for every 20% total linoleic/linolenic unsaturated triglyceride content, and that is likely more than enough. Using mixed tocopherols - NOT vitamin E acetate - a bit more, say 0.15%. Most of the time 0.01 - 0.05% is fine. For high oleics, virtually none.
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Have you tried Brenntag AG? They rep Pilot here in the USA. BTW Aspire Super G is great stuff, I’ve used it in HI&I cleansers for a while, but it is NOT sulfate-free, contains MIPA-DDBSA.
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@Syl, you certainly can, although I love my quats!. Applying oils to the hair after cleansing is one of the oldest personal care applications in history, going back to the ancient Greeks and Persians. There is some panthenol and protein involved also - both adsorb onto and into hair. I also spy several herbals here long admired for haircare exclusively, for reasons I don’t have any knowledge to base that on: horsetail, nettle, burdock, sage, sea buckthorn, salvia. Then, for comic relief, they have “coconut glycerin” included: as if you could tell. (and…there goes the rain forest.)
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@steamedrice, there is one basic flaw in that formula of yours: the ratio of percarbonate to citric acid is 4:1, where it should be closer to 2:1, especially with Ca hypo in there. That alone will produce a lot more fizzy. Also, I assume you are using coated percarbonate and hypochlorite? If not you’ll experience constant sublime reduction of the oxygenators to the point where there’s not much left to produce gas on solution/acidification. I used to test formulas like this in sealed f/f/s pouches, and even the coated percarbonates will sublime. Per Perry’s comment, no yeast enzyme I know of will produce gas very fast. I’d delete it entirely - no need for it. He’s also right about the soap. Add some SLS powder to that sucker and see what happens. SLS is peroxide stable.
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Negative. They use enzymes only as a processing technique (biotech 101 there). Besides, lipids are never difficult to preserve. Once you combine them into water…then you have a preservation requirement on your hands.
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Homogenize when all materials are combined and the appearance is uniform, usually below 45C. Be advised that over-homogenizing can destabilize a system like yours too, so easy does it. The modified silicone emulsifiers are much more forgiving when used for w/o emulsification.
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Add that solution into your formula at 0.0001%. At 1ppm it will be virtually invisible.
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To elaborate on the truthful comment from @Pattsi here: your gel formulation will work just as well at pH 5.8 - 6.2, it just won’t act as fast as one at pH 2.0 - 3.0. Same holds true with the alpha-hydroxy acids. If you need fast results in the dermatology office- use at pH 2. If you can live with an overnight treatment, pH 6 works fine. Sure helps solubilize that salicylic acid too, I might add. Also, tromethamine works better than triethanolamine at both jobs.
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LOTS of differences in formulating and processing w/o emulsions @Shams. Too many to discuss in one message. First thing is you very, very slowly add the WATER PHASE (disperse phase) to the OIL PHASE (continuous) not the other way around or you’ll end up with amorphous soup.
Read up, my friend. Research before developing. -
I agree with @Pharma there - PEG’s rock for SalAc solubility. I wonder why so many formulators ignore that? “Fear of PEG” perhaps?
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Your product should be OK for application to skin @Maya, especially with allantoin in it, although it looks under-preserved. Phenoxyethanol alone won’t suffice especially with aloe vera involved (surely you are not relying on “pomegranate extract” for this function, right?) and Polysorbate 20 doesn’t help that case either. Which alkali did you use to neutralize the carbomer with? I don’t see one here.
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That is one tall order there @”marek.barnas”. Those are difficult terpene-rich oils to solubilize and you are attempting to use a lot of them. PolySugaMulse D9 from Colonial Chemical is the best oil solubilizer kg/kg I know. Blend with Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate if needed and you should have something workable at a ratio of 4:1 to essential oils.
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I agree with @ngarayeva001: state more of the problem because it seems like there are four separate formulas going on there. I do not see an electrolyte in there - critical for w/o emulsions. I also agree with the homogenizing idea. Plan B is to increase the disperse phase (water + salt + glycol + whatever) until thick, then homogenize to be even thicker.
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Using 25% butylene gycol for anything gives one pause. Are you saying you need the glycol to dissolve/disperse that much SLES-2? Yeesh! Not much foam to be had there I suspect. Have you tried using PEG-6 or PEG-8? Those will do the job better. Another thing: all chemical prices are increasing everywhere. Butylene glycol is not being price-raised in isolation.
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The short answer is: no. The longer answer is how they differ. Most are the 400 cps Polyquaternium-10 since that is the more versatile chain length for use in conditioning shampoos, stabilizing cationic hair conditioners, adding glide to shaving creams and gels, etc. The 30,000 high MW is mainly just for hair conditioning and dilution-deposition of low MW dimethicone. There is only one reliable source for the 30,000 (Dow’s UCAR, via Univar), but several for the 400, 3V Sigma’s Conditioner P10 being the best and least expensive. Using the others from Asia may be OK but watch out for flaking.
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@harryc, you have reached the limit of that oil load carry for the Simulgel product, especially considering that dimethicone gum blend has an ultra-high MW dimethicone imbedded within - difficult to suspend or emulsify in any circumstance besides a 100% silicone formula or a w/Si emulsion. Furthermore, your electrolyte load (sodium, sodium and more sodium) exacerbates the functional stability of that acrylate copolymer itself at the same time. Sepimax Zen and xanthan gum will not solve All the World’s Problems either, as you’ve discovered (and many of our CC colleagues have yet to).
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@Graillotion, regarding smiles following ingredient names. I can’t help but think “Pimpanella Anisum” would make for an ideal porn star stage name.
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I’ll second @Graillotion on the GSC idea. I’ve found a combo of Polyglyceryl-4 Stearate/Glyceryl Stearate Citrate at a 3:1 ratio works like a charm for emulsifying most polar oils. Add the right builders and you can use that ubiquitously. As for stabilizers: xanthan - nah! / carbomer - yeah! Ecocert: take a walk as far as I’m concerned.
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As long as you use 99% TEA, not the 85% carrying DEA, I don’t see why not, but TrisAmino (tromethamine) from ANGUS is much safer to apply in “those places”.
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Are you adding CETAC later in the process? That is often a factor: add it first. I’ve observed where PEG-X Dimethicones can crash alkyl quaternary systems such as CETAC, so that may be a factor too, but not as a ppt but a viscosity crash. DO NOT combine sodium hyaluronate with a CETAC system, it will not be stable.
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I will second @ketchito on that electrolyte issue. When using latex opacifiers, best to leave the salt out completely. Likewise with most amphoterics (CAPB has 5% NaCl remember) though you don’t have a lot in there. There is another equally important factor: order of addition. Always add/disperse the opacifier to the initial water first, before any other ingredient. They ppt out often when added later. This formula can also be easily thickened using an acrylates copolymer, very compatible with the anionic latex opacifiers you are using, and you’ll never see any separation again since these add yield value to the mix. Synthalen W600 (3V Sigma) or Carbopol Aqua SF-1 (Lubrizol), depending on how much you are willing to spend.
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@David08848 Sounds like you solved your questions already. That is a classic Old School shave cream formula there. I want to thank you for reminding of the late Maurice Hevey. I met him once at a conference (he resided in the Twin Cities I think) and was an outstanding human being as ever there was, not to mention a superb cosmetic chemist. Nice memory there!
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@Abdullah: affirmative
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The opacifier/pearlizer to use here will be the mica-based ones, not TiO2. You will still need to add some yield value to your body wash system to keep that in suspension. Too many options to list here for that job but Polyquaternium-10, hydroxymethyl cellulose, cationic guar come to mind.
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@Zink Of the four attributes you’ve listed the emulsifier is a significant factor in only one: stability. For the other three, you are going to add builders to achieve better results (and you are experienced enough to already know that I suspect.) As for emulsifier choice, I’ve never liked the APG family (Montanov) of “naturals” and found better results using the polyglyceryl esters. Co-emulsify with a small amount of anionic such as glyceryl stearate citrate or sodium stearoyl glutamate and you have a nice mild emulsion base without ETO-based nonionics.