chemicalmatt
Forum Replies Created
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With my consulting clients, they ultimately own the IP of formulation, which is the entire purpose of the engagement: to own the formula, release specs, processing, sources, etc. However, if they expect this to be exclusive, that is written into the initial agreement, otherwise I can share the formulation - slightly revised, of course, to be ethical - with future clients. This is why the hourly professional service fee or monthly retainer fee is important. I’ve learned not to undersell my skills.
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@Abdullah at that level & pH I always guess “until it hurts”
but seriously, perhaps 30 - 40 minutes. At pH 6.0, several hours. -
As you state, they are one and same. The INCI convention used in personal care is to name ethoxylated esters as “PEG-” and ethoxylated alcohol ethers as “-eth”. Copolymers of PEO are named as PEG/PPG (w/polypropylene glycol). The drug peeps are enamored with the prefix “PEO”, but its all the same molecule.
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I would reassess the technique here. That ORS kit has guanidine hydroxide as its lanthionizing agent, and as Perry points out that is not as good as NaOH but will still bust apart 85% of those cystine bonds if properly used. 1) wash the hair thoroughly, 2) always apply to DRY hair only, 3) apply evenly from root to tips, starting at the crown, 4) if straightening is insufficient, leave on longer, the 20 minute “safety limit” is just that: if your wife can tolerate the stinging pain, that product will eventually straighten her hair - quite permanently too. A common mistake is application to wet hair or hair treated with something other than a formulated pre-treatment. You will notice that NONE of the pre-treats contains water, all are glycol based. Water swells the hair, increasing the diameter. Think of the straightening process as a race to the cortex from outside the shaft through the cuticle. Anything that increases the hair diameter increases the time to the cortex where the cystine links are. I’ve developed and manufactured over a million kilograms of hair relaxer over the years (yes, you read that correctly). My only complaint is the damn market crashed when the Natural Hair Movement took hold 10 years ago. That money-maker went south!
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@Abdullah PEGs will aid in solvation without affecting foaming or viscosity build of the SLES. Glycols will quench foaming and make viscosity build nearly impossible.
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How did you manage to get that high a level of HYA to mist-spray I wonder? Must be the lowest MW grade I guess? Anyhow, I’d put my money on that and the betaine. When I read “film” I think “polymer” and that HYA is the only member present. Glycine betaine absorbs very strongly to keratin, therefore the “gummy”.
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Depends on your chosen medium @tecnico3vinia. Using BHT, I use a very rough measure of 0.10% for every 20% total linoleic/linolenic unsaturated triglyceride content, and that is likely more than enough. Using mixed tocopherols - NOT vitamin E acetate - a bit more, say 0.15%. Most of the time 0.01 - 0.05% is fine. For high oleics, virtually none.
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Have you tried Brenntag AG? They rep Pilot here in the USA. BTW Aspire Super G is great stuff, I’ve used it in HI&I cleansers for a while, but it is NOT sulfate-free, contains MIPA-DDBSA.
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@Syl, you certainly can, although I love my quats!. Applying oils to the hair after cleansing is one of the oldest personal care applications in history, going back to the ancient Greeks and Persians. There is some panthenol and protein involved also - both adsorb onto and into hair. I also spy several herbals here long admired for haircare exclusively, for reasons I don’t have any knowledge to base that on: horsetail, nettle, burdock, sage, sea buckthorn, salvia. Then, for comic relief, they have “coconut glycerin” included: as if you could tell. (and…there goes the rain forest.)
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@steamedrice, there is one basic flaw in that formula of yours: the ratio of percarbonate to citric acid is 4:1, where it should be closer to 2:1, especially with Ca hypo in there. That alone will produce a lot more fizzy. Also, I assume you are using coated percarbonate and hypochlorite? If not you’ll experience constant sublime reduction of the oxygenators to the point where there’s not much left to produce gas on solution/acidification. I used to test formulas like this in sealed f/f/s pouches, and even the coated percarbonates will sublime. Per Perry’s comment, no yeast enzyme I know of will produce gas very fast. I’d delete it entirely - no need for it. He’s also right about the soap. Add some SLS powder to that sucker and see what happens. SLS is peroxide stable.
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Negative. They use enzymes only as a processing technique (biotech 101 there). Besides, lipids are never difficult to preserve. Once you combine them into water…then you have a preservation requirement on your hands.
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Homogenize when all materials are combined and the appearance is uniform, usually below 45C. Be advised that over-homogenizing can destabilize a system like yours too, so easy does it. The modified silicone emulsifiers are much more forgiving when used for w/o emulsification.
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Add that solution into your formula at 0.0001%. At 1ppm it will be virtually invisible.
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To elaborate on the truthful comment from @Pattsi here: your gel formulation will work just as well at pH 5.8 - 6.2, it just won’t act as fast as one at pH 2.0 - 3.0. Same holds true with the alpha-hydroxy acids. If you need fast results in the dermatology office- use at pH 2. If you can live with an overnight treatment, pH 6 works fine. Sure helps solubilize that salicylic acid too, I might add. Also, tromethamine works better than triethanolamine at both jobs.
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LOTS of differences in formulating and processing w/o emulsions @Shams. Too many to discuss in one message. First thing is you very, very slowly add the WATER PHASE (disperse phase) to the OIL PHASE (continuous) not the other way around or you’ll end up with amorphous soup.
Read up, my friend. Research before developing. -
I agree with @Pharma there - PEG’s rock for SalAc solubility. I wonder why so many formulators ignore that? “Fear of PEG” perhaps?
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Your product should be OK for application to skin @Maya, especially with allantoin in it, although it looks under-preserved. Phenoxyethanol alone won’t suffice especially with aloe vera involved (surely you are not relying on “pomegranate extract” for this function, right?) and Polysorbate 20 doesn’t help that case either. Which alkali did you use to neutralize the carbomer with? I don’t see one here.
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That is one tall order there @”marek.barnas”. Those are difficult terpene-rich oils to solubilize and you are attempting to use a lot of them. PolySugaMulse D9 from Colonial Chemical is the best oil solubilizer kg/kg I know. Blend with Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate if needed and you should have something workable at a ratio of 4:1 to essential oils.
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I agree with @ngarayeva001: state more of the problem because it seems like there are four separate formulas going on there. I do not see an electrolyte in there - critical for w/o emulsions. I also agree with the homogenizing idea. Plan B is to increase the disperse phase (water + salt + glycol + whatever) until thick, then homogenize to be even thicker.
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Using 25% butylene gycol for anything gives one pause. Are you saying you need the glycol to dissolve/disperse that much SLES-2? Yeesh! Not much foam to be had there I suspect. Have you tried using PEG-6 or PEG-8? Those will do the job better. Another thing: all chemical prices are increasing everywhere. Butylene glycol is not being price-raised in isolation.
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The short answer is: no. The longer answer is how they differ. Most are the 400 cps Polyquaternium-10 since that is the more versatile chain length for use in conditioning shampoos, stabilizing cationic hair conditioners, adding glide to shaving creams and gels, etc. The 30,000 high MW is mainly just for hair conditioning and dilution-deposition of low MW dimethicone. There is only one reliable source for the 30,000 (Dow’s UCAR, via Univar), but several for the 400, 3V Sigma’s Conditioner P10 being the best and least expensive. Using the others from Asia may be OK but watch out for flaking.
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@harryc, you have reached the limit of that oil load carry for the Simulgel product, especially considering that dimethicone gum blend has an ultra-high MW dimethicone imbedded within - difficult to suspend or emulsify in any circumstance besides a 100% silicone formula or a w/Si emulsion. Furthermore, your electrolyte load (sodium, sodium and more sodium) exacerbates the functional stability of that acrylate copolymer itself at the same time. Sepimax Zen and xanthan gum will not solve All the World’s Problems either, as you’ve discovered (and many of our CC colleagues have yet to).
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@Graillotion, regarding smiles following ingredient names. I can’t help but think “Pimpanella Anisum” would make for an ideal porn star stage name.
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I’ll second @Graillotion on the GSC idea. I’ve found a combo of Polyglyceryl-4 Stearate/Glyceryl Stearate Citrate at a 3:1 ratio works like a charm for emulsifying most polar oils. Add the right builders and you can use that ubiquitously. As for stabilizers: xanthan - nah! / carbomer - yeah! Ecocert: take a walk as far as I’m concerned.
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As long as you use 99% TEA, not the 85% carrying DEA, I don’t see why not, but TrisAmino (tromethamine) from ANGUS is much safer to apply in “those places”.