[billichemist]

isnt DMI better for dissolving Benzyl peroxide than PG?

[billichemist]

@bill_toge ahh! whats the science behind that??? 

[billichemist]

@auroraBorealis hmm.. it doens’t look like mould, and its not multiplying!

@bill_Toge the pH is around 5..

[billichemist]

my pearling comes out in time, i usually let it cool slowly and the next day it will be nice and pearly!

[billichemist]

@ozgirl

okay thank you!

I am located in Australia!

[billichemist]

I’ve found this is my travels..

Cera Bellina has the unique ability to give stability by forming non-granular gels of liquid oils. Besides the consistency regulating properties of beeswax, Cera Bellina has the remarkable capability of inhibiting crystallization in the oil phase and therefore enhancing stability by preventing the formation of granules.  This attribute can eliminate the graininess or rice granule effect that can occur when using shea and other natural butters in anhydrous formulations such as lip balms and lotion bars.

..but how? 

are these ingredients considered solubilisers?

[billichemist]

oooh… thank you for this…whats the chemistry behind this??

[billichemist]

Ive had a similar problem too and the lovely people on this forum helped me out.

i had a similar formula of ALS, CAPB and CocoDEA and it would be beautiful and thick the first day and thin the next. ( i think it was my EO blend too)

but some one told me to readjust my levels and do away with CocoDEA completely and use a solubiliser for the oils.  and its fixed! the thread is in there somewhere in the forums… it was posted not long ago so you should be able to find the thread easy enoguh..

[billichemist]

I am younger ish as well and i dont see any problems with tattoos! but obviously if you had to represent a company that has a certain branding, then dress appropratiately. same goes for just dressing in general really.

[billichemist]

hello guys.. 

my ALS and CAPB forumla has been great so far but its not great in 40C stability (it goes a little thin)… and pointers??

[billichemist]

yes i get this too!!

[billichemist]

@belassi ahh.. isn’t it a co-emulsifier and cannot be used as a single emulsifier alone? I have been doing that using cetyl alcohol as a primary emulsifier and my creams arent amazing.. 

@bobzchemist Ah yes. i have been looking at that! they are very expensive..

[billichemist]

I used the proper amount of ALS and CAPB and its all good now! thanks everyone! will also be trying ANTIL® Soft SC . will update..

@venera: i got some of spigel in.. i didnt use it on an ALS formula, but i used it on a laponite cream and it thickened beautifully!!

[billichemist]

So I made an emulsion with the following:

water - qs

glycerine - 3

decyl glycoside -3

potassium cetyl phosphate -1

steric acid - 0.5

olivem1000-5

cetyl alcohol - 3

carnuba wax - 0.5

avocado oil- 3

macadamia oil - 3

Acids -10

xanthan gum - 0.05

preservative 0.6

Misc extracts - 3.5

a quick centrifuge test showed that it was not stable (I also did a test on the same cream without the acids and it showed to be stable in the centrifuge) 

any other tips?? it also really thins out when i put the acids in

[billichemist]

ahh.. okay im completely taking GS out of the blend and using olivem 1000 instead… (So trialling a blend of Olivem1000 and Potassium cetyl phosphate)

is GS even a main emulsifier? the HLB is so low! 

[billichemist]

did it work for muscle aches? or did you hallucinate?? haha

[billichemist]

So i am back working on this… and I am so confused with my HLB numbers.. 

I am experimenting with using blends of Glyceryl stearate and sodium lauroyl lactylate AND Glyceryl stearate and Potassium cetyl phosphate 

I am trying to match the HLB emulsifuler values to the HLB oil values (right now its sitting at 10).. 

1. i believe both SLL and PCP are co emulsifiers, for me to get the HLB values up to around 10, i will have to use a lot more of SLL or PCP than GS… is this correct?? i would assume as a co emulsifier you only need a small amount? but then the HLB Values don’t match.

ahh!! 

[billichemist]

I do! i only use the ones that have been leftover from formulation trials but too good throw out!

[billichemist]

@venera Thank you for that… unfortunately, ihave developed the fragerance ourselves based on the aroma alone and i have no expertise in fragrance compounds! i am not sure what i will do now. I have yet to use sepigel 305 as i am waiting for it to come in.

I tried thickening the above with salt but it seems the sample with the most ideal viscosity was the control (no salt) because i didn’t stir it much(the more i stir it, the thinner it gets, so when i try to dissolve the salt in by stirring, the product goes super thin)! i assume this high viscositywill crash out over time? 

[billichemist]

i did a formulation as below

water - qs

glycerine - 5

ALS (26%) - 58

Adjust to pH 4.5

alcoholic extracts - 2

phenoxyethanol - 0.5

cocoamidopropyl betaine - 10

EO Blend 1

The EO is at 1% because clients wanted it to have a strong fragrance… Viscosity is beautiful when i add CAPB in and give like 3 stirs, but with subsequent stirring, the viscosity crashes out.. is there a reason for this/is this normal??

[billichemist]

will sodium lauroyl lactylate be a suitable anionic emulsifier?

[billichemist]

@CosChemFan I understood it as the latter: i would have to use 10% of my 50% CAPB to get an overall 5% CAPB activity in the final formulation? is this correct? 

[billichemist]

@bobzchemist : i’ve done centrifuge tests to give me an indication on how it would behave in stability and formulas without the acids pass centrifuge test while formulas with even the smallest amount of acids fail centrifuge tests (sedimentation of water)

Decyl glycoside is for the cleansing/foaming properties.

@auroraborealis and @Bill_Toge thank you for your suggestions, i will add an anionic emulsifier and reduce the oils. will let you know my results

[billichemist]

at the moment i am just using phenoxyethanol

[billichemist]

this is a great article