belassi
Forum Replies Created
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Excellent, thanks for that.
Considering the reason to do crash cooling - to get small droplet size - couldn’t you achieve this using an ultrasonic mixing head? I believe that stable emulsions can be formed using ultrasonic means, even without an emulsifier. -
Update: I do think the stearic acid is too high now. The effect of the cream seems excellent but I think I’ll reduce the stearic acid to say 1% and replace it with … hmm. Have to cast an eye on the raw materials shelves. Suggestions welcome.
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I don’t see the point of using sodium benzoate when potassium sorbate will get the job done safely and efficiently.
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I tried it. The effect was like putting any other oil on my skin. Five hours later I still had the horrible oily film there. I hate products like this. I do agree with your comments!
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It isn’t really that difficult to get body butter consistency. It is a matter of using a good combination of lipids. Typically you want to use a high quality beneficial solid lipid such as shea butter. I’d have to root around to find it but as I recall, my first ‘cream’ was so thick it was actually a butter, and it was around 10% shea butter, with cetyl alcohol and stearic acid and glyceryl monostearate as the emulsifier. It was lovely, but you could only use it occasionally because it was so rich.
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While searching for data on triacetin this popped up. I guess it’s their magic ingredient. http://www.quicktouch.biz/whyqt_02.htm
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I have found something that’s regarded as completely harmless and in fact allowed in food, that enhances skin penetration. Glyceryl triacetate. Now to find where I can get some…
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“Contains patented dye enhancer and natural herb oil to minimize damage to scalp, and at the same time, allows for safe and fastest hair coloring possible.”
I love the “minimize damage to scalp” part. -
Stearic acid gives a nice skin feel. Just ask Nivea…
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Maybe reduce the silicone to 0.5% I think. And add a little cetostearyl alcohol to thicken, say 1.5 to 2%
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@nasrins: It’s very complicated but speaking strictly about product, different preservative systems result in different characteristics. Some preservatives are not suitable for some applications: for instance, parabens as far as I can see is unsuitable for systems that contain no lipid components or polyols because you cannot dissolve it. So I use Spectrastat for that purpose. But I wouldn’t use Spectrastat in a shampoo because it would kill the foam, and anyway, simple preservatives such as potassium sorbate work very well in such products.
There do exist very effective preservatives for which you can actually claim products are “preservative free”. Spectrastat is one of them. -
In my opinion the FDA is just a shill for massive manufacturers and isn’t fit for purpose. There is plenty of evidence for other more natural antibacterial ingredients but the FDA wants us to “prove” that? They won’t, it seems, accept published scientific papers.
This hostile attitude is exactly the opposite of that of most other countries. -
@nasrins: I am usually pretty free with publishing formulae, but this one is a bit commercially sensitive possibly.
I’m using 3% Sebaryl right now. I think I will increase the dosage to 4%. And I think I will double the percentage of the thyme botanical that’s responsible for the bactericidal action.I checked all these Gattefosse ingredients but they are for water-insoluble actives. All my actives are water based. (They are all botanicals). We have a very large number of plant extracts available to us in Mexico and I have had success using them. -
Isn’t sodium benzoate (benzoic acid) a known skin irritant?
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well, there’s probably a lot more than that going on, but I don’t know the chemistry of your other ingredients. Why such a high pH?
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Thanks. Appreciated. (4) is Sebaryl, I wonder if anyone else here has any experience of that?
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At pH=9 and NaOH, the oil component will be turning into soap.
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My reference for foam in the shower is cold process soap which produces abundant stable lather. Lecithin won’t give more foam.
Castille soap is rubbish for foam. Forget it. Use a high foaming soap instead. Adding salt or citric acid will not help, quite the contrary in fact. What is the “bubble wash” and please post the % values. -
It’s quite amusing that Perry and I have diametrically opposed views on petrolatum/mineral oil. I don’t believe that mineral oil has any place in skin creams because it is a completely foreign substance to our body, and secondly, it leaves a horrible greasy sensation that persists. I don’t think TEWL is a problem except in dry cold climates, and then, silicones make a better option for establishing a water loss barrier. Moisturising, for my products, means using carrier oils that will get the hydrosols into the skin as fast as possible, plus the benefits of the active lipids such as shea. I have found that “does NOT leave your skin greasy - absorbs quickly” is a real marketing plus.
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I can’t comment further, I’m afraid. You can try empirically.
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Saponification
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It’s an expensive way to moisturise at a dollar a pop.
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It comes down to marketing. I tried them here in Mexico and they don’t sell at all. We ended up giving them away as promo gifts with other sales. I am not the only company to have tried them, I saw another attempt to introduce them here, and that failed too.
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What you describe is a hot process soap using around a 7:1 ratio of potassium to sodium soap. You can vary the recipe once you are proficient at calculating the saponification values. For instance soapcalc.net is an easy way. I strongly suggest you join a soap forum if you want to do this because you will find many more people with direct experience to advise you.
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Welcome to the forum Lizzy. Ekushe-o! I speak pidgin and a few words of Yoruba because I once worked in Nigeria for a few years (Lagos state, Akure, Owerri and a few other places)