belassi
Forum Replies Created
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Having read that paper and seen the photos, I can see no effect at all worth talking about. Also they are talking about using 2% of their solution which itself contains 0.2% extract (as I previously noted, 0.2% is cold water max solubility) i.e. the concentration available will be 2/100 * 0.2% or 0.004% which is in the realms of homeopathy and about as believable in my opinion.
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Liquid extract? At what percent concentration and in what solvent? The maximum possible aqueous concentration is 0.2%
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It occurs to me that salicylic acid has similar solubility issues to GL acid and I wonder if it can also make an emulsion using pectin? I can’t try this because I don’t have any salicylic acid.
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Keep it simple. Body wash is a commodity product available at the dollar store and you can’t compete with them on price. Put too many fancy ingredients in a rinse-off product and it becomes completely uncompetitive. I put a refattening agent in mine (Lamesoft PO-65 at 1%) because it acts as a foaming agent allowing me to reduce the surfactant by 1%, and also acts as a soluble emollient. A lot of benefit for a low cost.
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Licorice root extract? This comes anywhere between 12% GL acid (powdered root) which is brown and intensely sweet, (200x sugar) to 95% GL acid, which is so sweet your taste buds die off so it doesn’t actually taste any sweeter. It is not that easy to come by; I imported mine from China but there actually is a ban on exports so … what I’m saying is that it’s not a material that I would want to base a continued reliable production quantity on.
If the above isn’t enough to put you off, it has solubility issues reminiscent of salicylic acid, quite possibly has an estrogenic type activity, and has known drug effects on the body including raised blood pressure, antiviral (e.g active against hepatitis C), anti-H Pylori bacterium, and so on. In other words it is a highly complicated substance with potential side effects and with very little definitive literature to rely on. -
The alcohol being volatile will evaporate. Diluted it will not act as a solvent which is why the oil comes out of suspension. You need a solubiliser such as Polysorbate-20.
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SLS! The enemy of your gums.
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According to the published information it’s like a number line with the ones on the left for o/w and the ones on the right for w/o.
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Get some SP70 and try it.
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Finished the first test and result looks excellent. Nice pink-beige colour and nice consistency, excellent gloss, good sensorials. Instead of 20% liquid paraffin I used a blend of 10% SHS (a Schercemol ester) and 10% Myritol 318, this seems to have worked super well. Will work to refine this formula and then continue with skin creams.
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Pectin arrived. First experiment will be a liquid make-up base. It requires 20% liquid paraffin and I never use hydrocarbon mineral oil, so I will substitute Myritol 318. My main problem is going to be how to measure the oxides. For a 200g sample prep I only need 0.04g of each oxide. My best scales are accurate to 0.01g but the problem will be transferring it to the test batch without loss. Have to think this through… the emulsion comprises 25% oils and 71% water and emulsifies according to the patent, perfectly, with 0.3% GL and 2% Pectin.
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It’s a dangerous substance to have in the lab. Many peroxides are explosive and can be created accidentally.
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I’m going to begin with pectin. I will not test using the exact same formulae because I am not into using mineral oil, but I will otherwise stick closely to the spec and use the same process. If the pectin works as per patent I may obtain some other gum eg Xanthan and test again. I have half a kilo of pectin on the way so I look forward to doing some original work.
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I agree, H 81 will work fine. I recommend using 1% to 1.5%
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I prefer to rely on a blend for my anionic type shampoo because
1) I have two different manufacturers available for an equivalent blend.2) It reduces process time.3) The formulators who made it obviously have a hell of a lot more experience than I; their blend is far superior to anything I came up with. They have access to raw matls that I lack; I can’t source high-purity DEAL for instance, nor do I have a source for ALES. -
Plenty of people here with expertise. Tell us what you want to do.
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Well, I am going to test their ideas, to see what happens.
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I think I have just decided to never try designing lipstick.
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Patent:
Since the glycyrrhizic compounds and water-soluble polysaccharides used in the practice of the invention exert a mild action on the skin without causing irritation thereto and hence have great safety for the skin, the skin cosmetic composition of the invention does not pose the problem of skin irritation as contracted with skin cosmetic compositions containing synthetic emulsifiers.
Furthermore, it is well known that glycyrrhizic acid and salts thereof are remarkably effective in the treatment of acute and chronic dermal diseases and are being used for external application in the field of dermatology. Thus, the skin cosmetic composition of the invention can be expected to have pharmacologically beneficial effects on the skin.
- sounds like a new OTC drug in FDA terms.
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Very interesting, in combination with a gum it becomes an emulsifier according to this patent.
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GA treatment significantly inhibited photoaging.
The main problem I have with this substance is the lack of data. -
It’s only saccharin.
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Don’t put comodegenic things on your skin, watch your diet. Apparently nutrition has a lot to do with acne according to what I read in Dermatology Magazine.
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Please define “better”. In what way?
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1. None, in fact the reverse.
2. Yes it does.