belassi
Forum Replies Created
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That would depend on the moisture content.
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Very interesting.
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I don’t know why, I just know that it is, just as I know that Ultrez-21 is much better still. But I can’t obtain any…
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And no, it cannot be ‘fixed’.
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Your formula, sorry to say this, cannot work. The expected result is exactly what you reported. First, the IPA percent is far too high. Secondly, 980 is not the best Carbopol for this by a long way. Even 940 is better. Third, you need to use AMP not TEA.
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Things like this ingredient list are just a lot of smoke and mirrors. Analysed:
INFUSED GINGER ROOT OIL marketing bs
DISODIUM COCOAMPHOTDIPROPIONATE primary surfactant
SODIUM C14-16 OLEFIN SULFONATE primary surfactant
COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE secondary surfactant
CITRIC ACID pH adjustment
ANISEED OIL marketing bs and possibly fragrance.
RICINUS COMMUNIS (CASTOR) SEED OIL marketing bs which reduces the efficiency
PHENOXYETHANOL ( PRESERVATIVE),
SODIUM COCOYL ISETHIONATE primary surfactant
POLYQUATERNIUM - 10 a cationic conditioner and thickener
DECYL/LAURYL GLUCOSIDE primary surfactant
GLYCOL DISTEARATE pearliser
GUAR CHLORIDE some kind of cationic gum, also used for thickening ESSENTIAL SCENT some kind of EO which should be listed, so IMO this label does not comply with US requirements.
The italics are all the surfactants. There is a clue also. First, all these surfactants. It is highly unlikely that the company developed such a mixture. Secondly, decyl/lauryl glucoside? This tells me that’s part of a commercial blend.
It is almost certain that the surfactants are either just one commercial blend or two blends mixed. Probably the CAPB is added separately. I could likely track down what blends given a half hour on UL Prospector.
Sulphate free / sulphates, no difference at all provided the formulation is done for a specific hair type.
The things I listed as marketing BS are exactly that. No effect at all or a negative (undesirable) effect. -
Why would you want to do that? What benefits?
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Increasingly, here. it is becoming evident that the bottles of sanitiser contain little or no alcohol. How annoying.
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That’s interesting, Bill.
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Yes, that’s why I am proposing to use only amphoterics or non-ionic surfactants. Possibly D-limonene in a small percentage would also add antibacterial activity, it’s a good solvent, after all. Must check.
*EDIT* “d-Limonene showed a MIC equal to 256 μg/mL against standard S. aureus and 512 μg/mL against resistant P. aeruginosa.”
- that’s pretty decent! Like, 0.0005% is the minimum inhibitory concentration! Why not use say, 0.01% then? That’s 20 times the MIC. -
Yes, PO-65 is a softener, that’s precisely the problem. You don’t want soft hair, you want springy, resilient hair. That’s why the H-81. It deposits a thin resin layer that leaves a really nice effect.
If the ASM is 10.5, OK. Myself I use 12-14%. Again it depends on the surfactants,
I don’t like the effect of Cocamide DEA and it’s a pain having to compensate for the extreme pH. I use Cocamide MEA.
Can’t advise on the lanolin idea. I assume the PEG-6 is a refattener, I use PEG-7 GC at 1%.
Can’t comment either on the silicone emulsion. The only silicone I ever use is Silsense DW-16 which is a water-dispersible silicone ester. I use it either/and the H-81 for similar reasons. -
1. Not me.
2. Only the manufacturer knows that.
3. You will have to try it and see. -
1. go to your best factor (supplier) of dyes. Ask for a sample of the main colours. Here for instance, I was given red, pink, dark blue, sky blue, green, yellow, and orange.
2. make sure you have an accurate jeweller’s scale. The masses required are very tiny. Now you will test the dyes:
3. Accurately weigh out, 20mL (say) of pure water. Add a small amount of the dye to a folded piece of stiff paper. Use this to slowly add a small amount of dye to the 20mL of water. Depending on the dye, this might be (say) 20mg to give a 0.1% solution. Do not weigh the dye separately, the measurement errors are significant.
4. Mix well with a glass rod. Take a shampoo bottle and nearly fill it with pure water. Weigh it.
5. Add enough of the premixed concentrated dye solution to get the colour that you’re looking for. Weigh again. Do the math to calculate the % of dye solution required.
6. Leave the bottle in direct sunshine for a couple of hours and see if anything happens.
The above is a pretty basic test procedure. It’s likely that you will end up combining dyes to get particular colours. This may or may not work! I wanted a violet shampoo of a particular shade so I combined pink and blue. It worked super well so I made a whole batch of shampoo.
I took this along to a market and tried it out as a product. After five minutes in direct sun it changed to a turquoise colour. It was still quite attractive but I rather doubt there is a market for colour-changing shampoos. -
You will need on the order of 25% to 30% Propanediol.
I can see this is not going to be an inexpensive product. -
I have found that the choice of surfactants makes by far the biggest difference in the performance of a shampoo. I can’t comment on your two primary surfactants because I have never used them. 1.5% of CAPB is almost nothing, it seems to me you should check the ASM total % first.
Lamesoft PO-65: It is a softener. I tried it myself in shampoos at 1, 2, and 3%. I no longer use it in shampoo. It leaves the hair “limp”. I suggest you first remove it, see what the result is like. Then try adding 1% of Polyquart H-81 instead (a condensed resin) and retest. -
Thank you - I’ll try this and report back. Problems at the moment, we are moving imminently and 95% of lab materials are already packed. I am seriously worried about all the glassware, I hope I packed it well enough.
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I think to amuse myself I will see if I can design an antibacterial liquid soap. Let’s see… sodium cocoamphoacetate, that’s got nice foam. CAPB of course. I’ll start with just those two. For fragrance, 0.1% lavender EO will add some antibacterial function too (the MIC for it is 0.1%). Hmm… glycerin, 1% PEG7GC, citric acid to lower the pH, do I really need a preservative given that I’m going to add CETAC? Maybe against mould. So 0.3% sodium benzoate then.
How much CETAC? There’s the question. HELP! -
I’ve never used lecithin but I should think that the proportion of oil to emulsifier is way out of whack. Secondly I see no pH adjustment, it’s almost certain that the pH >5.5 which means the tiny amount of sorbate is not going to be even active. And lecithin is perfect food for bacteria and yeasts. You need to rethink this system.
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Yes, I’ve also been wondering about making an antibacterial soap using it, (and amphoteric surfactants).
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Which form? I had no idea there is more than one. It is green, I still have some left. The whole thing is market related. I loved playing with the clay, but we could not get any consumer interest at all.
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Swimming goggles will protect the eyes. The best low cost mask to use would be the R95 (NOT the N95) which protects against oily droplets such as paint sprays. It has a charcoal absorber that should provide protection for a limited period.
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The surfactant is probably being used to get the SA into solution. You would want to find out the minimum percentage of that, to achieve solution.
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The following is only an educated guess and I hope that others will offer corrections.
Salicylic Acid - 2%
Caprylyl Glucoside — a surfactant. Since it is second, I guess it is in the range of 1.5% max, to 0.5% min.
Citric Acid Q/S for required pH
Glycerin Perhaps 1%
Phenoxyethanol 0.5%
Sodium Benzoate 0.3%
Sodium Hydroxide Q/S for required pH
Water ? Why isn’t this the first ingredient? Now I question if the list is even in correct % use order.
Witch Hazel ?PS. I just wasted my time looking at a close analogue of the above on Walgrens site. It is obvious that their damn ingredient list is not compliant with the rules.
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Sodium benzoate goes into ionic solution at pH<5.5 so there is little difference. Please bear in mind that when formulating a shampoo, you need to look at the complete system, not just the preservative alone. For instance, our (discontinued) sulphate-free shampoo had 3% propanediol in it as part of the thickener; it acts as a preservative booster. Ideally I would experimentally reduce the preservative until it failed challenge and then double that amount. In practice nobody has that kind of time.
You can use citric acid to reduce the pH. -
We did try that, but on the second day he said his arm was about to drop off, and he never came back.