alchemist01
Forum Replies Created
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I think the sodium silicate is just a film former. These act to smooth out the skin by filling in crevices/valleys in the outer layers of your skin to leave a cohesive covering.
According to this patent (https://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/74/1e/51/42b2d994d23ff9/WO2013109850A2.pdf) sodium silicate is also a “contractile adhesive,” and pulls on the skin as it dries, which may be why you saw such potent results.As for the sandpaper feeling, I imagine either the water in the product evaporated or was absorbed, leaving behind the previously colloidal silicates. Unfortunately it kind of sounds like you were rubbing tiny glass shards around on your skin.
These are pretty strange ingredients to me and certainly sound like something only Florida could make. This (https://s3.amazonaws.com/ariixdocs/productpdfs/jouve/Jouve_Tightener_Ingredients_List_V05.pdf) is the closest I could find to your description.
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Urea is not particularly stable. Evaporation of water can crystal formation. Temperature fluctuations (I believe within ambient range) and air exposure can cause pH drift.
According to this paper (http://www.iscd.it/files/UREA-FROM-THE-CHEMIST-S-POINT-OF-VIEW.pdf), urea creams above 10% should be W/O emulsions. “For the treatment of pronounced dermatological disturbances such as psoriasis vulgaris, different
forms of ichthyosis, atopic dermatitis and extremely dry skin, 10% U in W/0 should be applied (5,6). U in W/0 has not such a distinct immediate effect but has a longer lasting beneficial action due to its deeper penetration into the skin.” W/O emulsions are inherently trickier. For these reasons, and a lot of anecdotal evidence from my coworkers, I view it as a problem in formulating. However, again, I have not worked with it.If you feel you have been helped I’m glad. I really don’t see a problem with you making a batch of this stuff and closely watching its stability. Do know a lot of people that try to help on this website are professionals and don’t have time to respond to every reply, I don’t think you should get upset with anyone over that.
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As far as DIY sites go, humblebeeandme is one of the better ones. I have used her website as a starting point for some stuff before, really because she’s the only one that posts formulas with actual %s and gram measurements, rather than cups.
It’s still a DIY website, though, and is probably best for advanced hobbyists.The other poster is just trying to tell you urea creams are difficult to formulate and I think they are right. You are welcome to try but I would encourage you to be less dismissive of help.
My lab made a 10% urea cream with Cithrol DPHS (PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate). I wasn’t involved with it but have made w/o emulsions with that emulsifier and think it could work for you. -
I think products claiming hair growth or the prevention of hair loss are mostly marketing. At best you’re buying an anti-dandruff shampoo with some kind of antifungal active.
The only exception to the rule might be minoxidil.
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If you need a stiff gel you’re going to need to change carbomers; some varieties are designed to work in higher concentrations of ethanol.
However, I’ve tried carbomers around your tolerance and found that a flowable gel very similar to hand sanitizers I use personally happens around 55%wt ethanol.
It’s hard to give you more advice without knowing how much carbomer you’re using.
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Fragrance is probably the first and easiest thing to ditch if you’re experiencing irritation issues, especially if this is just for personal use.
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One possible reason is that they bought and used a proprietary mix from their supplier.
Copy and pasting some of your surfactants into google showed me “coco glucose” by MakingCosmetics has a very similar INCI list to all the surfactants tacked on, for example. http://www.makingcosmetics.com/fact-sheets/fact-sheet-coco-glucose.pdf
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Correct me if I’m wrong but isn’t the ethanol concentration in sanitizers generally %v/v? Right now you’re sitting at 60.2%wt which would be 76.3%v/v which doesn’t seem like an intentional amount.
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Zink said:Why not, 5 - 10% ethanol shouldn’t be drying? Propylene Glycol is a poor sollubilizer no, you’d need 15% or so?
Sorry, I interpreted the question as looking for a preservative and solvent for SA in one. Ethanol as a preservative would have to be higher than I’d want it, not so much for drying but scent and viscosity effects.
If you want to dissolve the SA in a smaller amount of ethanol and add it in it should be fine. -
I think an anionic surfactant should be your primary; decyl glucoside (and nonionics as a whole) I generally see as a secondary surfactant.
Cocomidopropyl betaine probably needs to be in double digits, and tends to haze — I think avoiding this is all in method of addition. My trick is to write “ABCDEFG” on a piece of paper under your beaker. Add everything in slowly with stirring and stop the instant your alphabet gets obscured, resume when it is easily readable. I would first try adding it slowly into an already mixed anionic/water phase.
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As far as I know you are allowed to list an essential oil blend as “Fragrance,” given that it is placed in the LOI as the combined %wt of all the blended oils.
That said, I don’t think you should. One, it’s a little dishonest. Two, the inclusion of essential oils is, by and large, a selling point for most products and probably increases your cost; why not brag about it?
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Not sure what you’re making, but I imagine for anything skincare-related ethanol would be not ideal. Propylene glycol is a good enough solvent for SA at low %s and works as a co-preservative.
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Isn’t salt compatible with your formula? I would try to thicken that in addition to/instead of acrylates. You may need to increase CAPB if so.
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I know of one brand that does something similar: https://www.blueland.com/products/the-clean-essentials?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyMLJ0c_-5wIVR5yzCh3OyAAeEAQYAiABEgJvtfD_BwE
I would look through some of their ingredient lists and get some ideas. I would also perfect the tablet before shelling out for fancy ingredients.
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It really depends on the oil. I think fragrance is more of a QS step than anything else, but yes, I would say most synthetic fragrance oils I’ve used can do the job at (or often below) 0.5%.
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I like BulkApothecary for small batches. Find them to be pretty fast and reasonably priced.
Their Love Spell fragrance is my favorite.
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@steamedrice those are hydrochlorofluorocarbons.
A great blog for this exact topic is: https://labmuffin.com/how-do-bubbling-oxygen-masks-work/ -
I have found order/method of addition has a profound impact on stuff like transparency. Coco betaine is a common culprit for this too.
In addition to finding the right ingredients I would definitely try adding things in at different times, temperatures, etc.
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Is there a reason why? It seems topical zinc has some benefits (only basing that on this article: https://www.paulaschoice.com/expert-advice/skincare-advice/acne-and-breakouts/does-zinc-help-with-acne.html), but something like salicylic acid is so tried-and-true I would personally go with that.
Only acne treatment I found having zinc lactate is https://www.ewg.org/skindeep/products/876366-Kroger_Clarify_Lets_Be_Clear_Daily_Acne_Control_Cleanser/, but that might be more in relation to the lactic acid which is an AHA also used in a lot of acne products. -
I was about to recommend bimatoprost too. It’s the only thing I’ve ever heard of being used for eyelashes, though I don’t think its effects constitute “hair growth,” rather than thickness and pronounced darkness.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3036812/
Your formula as it stands will probably do as well as nothing, unfortunately.
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Evaporating water probably shouldn’t be a part of your recipe, and if it is you should do before/after weights on a successful trial and replicate it that way.
If you’re only heating water to combine an oil and water phase, you don’t need to heat it to the boiling point of water. Melt the waxes and any solid oils you need first, then combine them into hot water.
Some water will obviously still evaporate but it should be negligible if you take it off heat after mixing.
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Could be, but there’s no glycerin in the ingredient list. I can’t say I’m 100% sure that this ingredient list is truthful, it’s manufactured in China.
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It really depends on what type of alcohols. Fatty chain alcohols are a common component of moisturizing hair products. Short chain, low molecular weight alcohols are, as far as I know, damaging to the cuticle and can cause dry scalp/hair strands.
What this does to brush bristles I’m not sure, as they don’t have roots/skin.
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Sodium benzoate and citric acid are not a good combination. At low pH or in generally poor storage conditions (excessive light, heat, etc.), citric acid can cause the benzoate to decarboxylate into benzene, which is highly carcinogenic.
If using sodium benzoate I would also take Perry’s recommendation and add a chelating agent, because metal ions can also catalyze benzene formation. It’s actually for this reason that you find EDTA in Coca-Cola.
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“After regular application of ethanol on the skin (e.g. in the form of hand disinfectants) relatively low but measurable blood concentrations of ethanol and its metabolite acetaldehyde may occur, which are, however, below acute toxic levels. Only in children, especially through lacerated skin, can percutaneous toxicity occur.”
- Lachenmeier, Dirk W. “Safe evaluation of topical applications of ethanol on the skin and inside the oral cavity” (https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2596158/#)
It appears yes, but not significantly.